After about a year with the tiny Sanderson shorty's, catalytic converters, resonators and less than optimal muffler, it's time to let the engine breathe a little.

The plan is to build a free flowing set of long tube headers using 1.825" primary's to 3" collectors. After the collectors things are still a bit sketchy but the plan is 3" pipes to an X pipe, then 2 small bullet mufflers followed by an electronic cut-out, then 3" pipe back to two small mufflers in the rear. The electronic cut-outs will let me flip the loud switch inside the car when I really wanna open it up.

So far I just have the mandrel bends and flanges but I plan on starting on the car in the next couple weeks.

Here's the stainless bends from Mandrel-Bends


And here's the 1/2" thick stainless flanges from Modular Turbo.


I took a short audio clip of what the car currently sounds like. My camera doesn't have the best audio but you can still hear the cam lope a little.
Here you go!

How is your TIG welding?

I don't have a TIG, I'm going to use the MIG to tack it together and leave the TIG welding to the professionals

The stainless is going to move/shrink on you. Don't expect that the headers will dump in exactly the same place as when you tacked them.

I love it! Kudos for taking this on. Proguru is right though... warp is going to be hard to control even after its tacked. If I can offer some advice: Take your time and get everything fit up nice and tight. Bolt the thing to a junk head when you (and your pro) are welding it. 1/2" stainless flanges are a good choice, but hard to fix once warped... ask me how I know.

Good luck. I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

Yeah, I have a set of headers under my belt. They almost fit how I wanted them to, lol.

One reason I went with the thick flanges is so they could be milled slightly if needed. Hopefully it won't come down to that.

Unfortunately I don't have any junk heads to use for mocking them up

You should be able to pick up a cast iron head from a truck for next to nothing, I have a couple if you want, shipping may be a factor

Mike

Used LS1 heads go for about $50 in the midwest. Try Craigslist for truck heads.

Good luck. I was pretty serious about doing a set of long tubes a while back. Even bought some of those header lego things to see how to route around the steering shaft. It looked like some of the primaries needed slash cuts with 1.75". Had some suggestions/ideas of cutting the flange in half or even quarters so you don't need to pull the subframe (painful) or pull out the rack (easy) to get them in. Some of the vette long tubes do this. They were most likely going to be tri-y's. It never happened because I was too worried about heat and not being able to pass sound at the local tracks.

I have to pull the subframe anyway so that's not a big deal. For heat I plan on getting them coated to help with under-hood temps. This place offers the same coating as Jet-Hot for much less. Lots of good reviews. Nitro Plate

I'm asking around on LS1-Tech to see if I can find some junk heads locally for cheap. I found some on Craigs List for $100 but I wanna see if I can find some cheaper than that.

Proguru - Do you have any pics of the headers you built? Curious to see what routing you've used for the primaries.

Mine were front dump. I had considered using them for a turbo setup, but then I decided on a supercharger. I couldn't get the supercharger to fit, but I had already fitted a set of block hugger shorties. I'm still running them. I'm convinced that the solution to all of our header problems is forced induction.

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I agree with this statement 100%.

Where did you get the lego's ?

I found them at:

http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm

$400 for a basic kit

It is a brilliant invention.

I thoroughly enjoy all of GoKart's postings, and I'll bet I've read and re-read the build thread six times. I'm just now starting my LSx swap on my '94... Just waiting for the custom powdercoat V8R items to make their way here before I start cutting on her...

Let me know if you need to find a home for the FM exhaust and Sanderson headers - I'm in no rush for exhaust at this point...

Kudos to you for taking on the one-off custom exhaust.

Getting ready for NorCarolina swap:

Thanks Callasports! I hope you're taking lots of pictures

I started disassembling the car yesterday. Removed all the coils, plugs and all sensors from the engine/transmission in preparation of dropping the engine.

I also found some used LS1 heads locally on LS1-Tech...for FREE!

orion4096 was kind enough to send me some extra pics of his header lego's. He came up with 2 different configurations, each one having its benefits.

The first one had cylinder 1 and 3 routed over top of the steering shaft. Here's what he had to say about this setup:
PRO'S:

• Doesn't put 5 by brake line.
• easier to slip in to the subframe. the builder liked this setup more.
• flange only needs to be cut in half. both sides have two bolts

CON'S:

• tri-y wants to pair 1/5 and 3/7. slip fit 2-1 collectors (to support easy install) would potentially leak
• 7 plug wire is real close to header from 5 and 7 trying to squeeze together. 5 is pretty ugly.
• steering shaft clearance not as good as other option

Here's a couple of his pics of the "1-3 over" configuration.





The second configuration has cylinder 1 and 5 routed over the steering shaft.

Here's his pro's and con's for this setup:
PRO'S:

• better steering shaft clearance
• better 5 plug wire clearance
• first set of 2-1 collectors can be welded on since 1,5 paired on outside
• better ground clearance

CON'S:

• the two halves are harder to install with motor in.
• flange is cut in 4 pieces. bolt hole shared in middle. Might not be so bad because each pair of flange pieces is welded to a pair of joined pipes. Builder suggested 4 separate pieces, but I don't like this.
• 5 is close to the brake line, but that is an easy fix

Here's a couple shots of the "1-5 over" set-up.






Cutting the flanges would only be necessary to aid in removing and installing the headers.

Are you going to rent out those header legos when you are done?

So when can I stop by and pick up my new headers?

Haha, for the right price everything's for sale.

I completely forgot about making a set of LTs until you made this thread. Now the urge is back, but I'll hold off until your done. If one cares about ease of install, there have to be creative ways to cut the flange so that the pieces interlock even if they share a bolt like 1-3 and 5-7. Like a 'Z' shape when looking down at the edge of the flange.

Would running out into the fender area like martins old 302 swaps help at all?

Any pictures of this?

Without getting into the suspension area or wheel well, I wouldn't think there's anywhere else to route them.

Picked up a portable band saw yesterday so I have nice clean cuts. I also ordered up a work table to attach it to so it will function like a vertical saw. I was looking at conventional band saws that were suitable for metal and they were way too big and expensive, so this set up made since.




I've also been searching around for a good collector. So far I'm sold on the Stainless Works ones. For the price they seem like the nicest ones available in the sizes I'm looking for (1 7/8" primary, 2.5" choke, 3" exit)