Assembling W-818 (aileron control rods)

We have just spent a very frustrating afternoon trying to set the AD4-12 rivets that hold the threaded rod end into the 1/2inch rod. The rivets look too long and each time we try to set one it just topples over. We've tried it in the hand squeezer and the C-frame. Frustration is high and success seems a way off. At this point we've removed 5 rivets and are in danger of ovaling the holes. ANy helpful tips will be very gratefully received!!

THanks

Chris

If the rivets are too long, then shave them shorter using a scotchbrite wheel or rivet cutter to the proper length before bucking them.

I found that the too long appearing rivets necessary in this application. The inside of the rod end bearing is hollow, so the rivet has more room to expand and therefor shorten while you are squeezing it. I had trouble squeezing these too. Here's what worked:

Pad your vice jaws with about two layers of duct tape. Don't use rubber or foam soft jaws, they will still let the tube rotate. Clamp the tube in your padded vice. Squeeze (preferrably with pneumatic squeezer) in one quick motion. Don't do it slowly.

What happens otherwise is that the tube or squeezer rotates slightly as you squeeze. By holding the tube in the vice you prevent it from rotating. By squeezing rapidly you use your pneumatic squeezer's substantial rotational inertia in your favor. It's easier for the rivet to squeeze straight than it is for it to twist your squeezer that rapidly. If you squeeze slowly, it's no big deal for the rivet to swing your squeezer through a bit of arc and bend over.

Good luck!
Guy

Chris,
I clamped my hand squeezer to my workbench to squeeze those rivets:




It made it easy to use one hand to squeeze the rivet, and the other to hold the rod. Worked perfectly.

The called for AN470AD4-12 rivets were way too long and the one I did toppled over on itself. In the end I used a AN470AD4-11 rivet and it turned out great.

I did a combo of the above - shaved the rivets down a bit, then clamped the tube in the vise; I found it easier to shoot / buck the rivets as I could guide the bucking bar if the rivet started to tip over and use the bar to straighten it out.

Thomas

Thanks for the replies. I think the length is necessary as Guy says so I don't want to shorten too much. However, I tried and -11 and it worked fine with the squeezer clamped in the vice to stabilise it, as Mike suggests. Had a few more goes last night with the -12 but no success so I'll probably just use -11s. Amazing the 1/16" can make so much difference.

Chris

Why not try shaving the 12's down to about 11.5's ?

Same Experience

After 2 unsuccessful tries at this myself, I conacted Van's. They told me that these rivets should be bucked, and not squeezed. I ended up taking my last attempt (Somewhat ugly, but workable. Van's told me ugly doesn't count and that there is very little force applied to these areas, so they were probably good anyway.) and had them welded as an added safety factor.

I would be interested in the experience of anybody who bucked these instead of squeezed them.

I bucked mine - worked well. Just held the pushrod in the vise and bucked. I was able to use the bar to guide the shop head and keep it from falling over - not so with the squeezer.

T.

You guys are over complicating this. Place the rivet in the hole. Place the rivet head on the anvil of your vice with the rivet pointing up. Take out your medium ball-peen hammer and drive the rivet. Simple. There is no law that says that a rivet has to be driven with a rivet gun or squeezer.

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=8358&highlight=aileron+pushrod+welding
More information on this thread.

listen to Mel

Mel is Right on this... but,,, if? you have a TIG...?
I have these welded,,,,, I have a friend with a TIG and it is a Quick thing for him to do this. No flustrations here.