Back to square one.

Just checked under car, which is level, and more trans fluid leaking from lower inspection hole. Has to be the seal.

So a Winter project for me.

Happy Turkey Day to everyone!

 

Back to where I was with many items disconnected including exhaust.

Much quicker than 1st time as all the tools were right there!

 

Damn, Happy Thanksgiving

 

Well, John,

I'm so sorry for your setback. I hope you still have a lot to be Thankful for.

Cheers,

Don

 

I do indeed.

I usually do not drive the Jag much at all in the Winter so good time to work on this project.

Will see if I can get the transmission dropped by Saturday.

 

So progressing very slowly on getting the trans dropped.

I am waiting on delivery of a strap wrench which I intend to use on rotating the engine to get at the torque converter bolts.

I read that the starter motor should be removed and so far I cannot get at the top bolt to get it out. I cannot even feel it however did see it with my boroscope so know the position of it.

Do I have to get it out??? Seems to me that it will not be in the way? Just realized that bolt maybe goes thru the bell housing into the engine so it has to come out?

So next steps will be to rotate torque converter and take off 4 bolts. Then lower rear of transmission to get at top bell housing bolts which I can almost get at now.

Every thing else is detached. Rear of engine will be supported.

Then slowly lower the transmission rearwards and lower while trying to catch any fluid from torque converter maybe.

 

I have never removed a starter to get the gearbox out!!!!!!!!!

 

Thats good news!

 

Top starter, & alternator bolts are both a pain.
Several inches of extension to reach the top starter bolt.
Someone said the s shaped wrenches from Harbor Freight will work.
The 13 mm S wrench just might work, never thought of using mine, when i did the job.
The top alternator bolt has some wires running right next to it to avoid..

 

I have done the top alternator bolt several times because of installing "incorrect" ones so have that down pat.

It looks like I will not have to bother with the starter this time.

 

I’m still having transmission issues but I’ve put my car on the back burner.

Now i just wanted to give some friendly advice. If you haven’t changed your motor mounts do so. Mine had gone bad and caused my transmission lines to leak. Hard to tell with all that underbody plastic and I ended up exploding my transmission.

That being said it’s also a good idea to check the fittings into the transmission to see if they are leaking if you seem to be losing fluid. Bad motor mount will damage the lines .

I currently have my original blown up transmission metatronix and solenoids in my new transmission. Long story . Car does all sorts of strange things. I’m figuring it to be an issue with not clearing my current tcu. If not likely a solenoid issue. Problems I’ll get to eventually haha

anyway check mounts and check lines

 

I agree, once you've done that top alternator bolt a few times it gets less difficult, though I still wouldn't call it easy.

Cheers,

Don

 

What size socket do I need for the crank pulley bolt?

The wrench strap finally arrived, took as long from CA as it would have from China!

It is useless unless I dismantle a lot of stuff around and in the way of the crank pulley.

So I am left with trying to turn the engine using the crank bolt which I can only just get to by feel even with the engine tilted down at the back.

 

24MM

 

Engine was so easy to turn over at the crank pulley bolt.

However now seem stuck because I cannot get the transmission to slide back off the engine.

Prop is disconnected and everything else is as well.

All bell housing bolts are out except for two that are about a 1/4" out to stop the trans from "crashing back".

I removed three torque converter bolts. In fact when I levered against the T converter through the bottom bell housing hole it moved into the trans a fraction of an inch with a click.

The trans/engine are on a slight incline from front to back.

On the rhs there is a small gap where leverage can be applied between the engine and the trans bell housing but no movement when leverage is applied.

Should I have everything at a steeper incline front to back? I do not want any sudden large movements just gradual.

What am I missing?

 

The engine and gearbox are both aluminum.
The locating dowels are STEEL. They corrode and can be difficult to release. I always apply anti-seize when I reinstall the hollow dowels.

Spray penetrating oil and 'wiggle/pry' until it comes loose?

 

That is what my research is telling me. I just wanted to check.

So will try some "wiggle/prying" tomorrow.

 

John,

If I recall correctly, there are locating sleeves/dowels around a couple of the bellhousing bolts, so if the bellhousing tilts in any direction as the transmission is coming away from the engine those locating sleeves can bind. That's the first thing I can think of.

Don

 

At this moment there is no gap whatsoever between the bell housing and the engine.

I will try to get some gap showing to locate these dowels and apply leverage next to them a bit at a time.

It is not that easy on jack stands and lying on ones back.

 

You can spray the oil in the bolt hole. (the holes on either side that have the hollow dowels)