W203 Rear Brake Back Plate Renewal

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tcb180

Active Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
158
Location
gwent
Car
Mercedes E320 Auto
Took me quite a while as I had no template to work off, and I took other preventative measure too. This won't rust as easy as the oe ones that's for sure.

For you guys, just trust me on the cutting, and you can have your new plate ready to fit beforehand. It is quite straightforward.

Firstly, I painted the new plate after cutting it in two. I applied 2x coats of Hammerite Red Lead. Left overnight, then two top coats of Plastikote Metal Protector. (Dries in no time). Again left overnight.

I also wire brushed all suspension arms and treated them with Marine Quality Rust Converter. (24hrs to cure) then a top coat of Plastikote .

To assist you guys I will go through the process once vehicle is jacked up, supported and front wheels chocked, as you will need to have her in neutral with parking brake off, obviously, to get disc off, to turn drive shaft and to adjust secondary brake shoes upon completion.

Remove brake caliper and disc from vehicle. Remove auxiliary brake shoes ( taking pics or noting position of springs and pivot assembly. Undo back plate retaining bolts. (No horror stories here as bolts are very substantial and came out easily).

I then started to cut the old plate off using a hacksaw. I started the process from the upper most narrow area of the plate. ( where the caliper would be located ) cutting as far as I could.

I then manipulated the plate and finished off the cut with a bare hacksaw blade in a gloved hand. After this, a little bending process and perhaps a little more hacksaw blade on the other side and you'll be able to pull the old plate from the vehicle.

The cutting of the new plate was done from the same top narrow part where the caliper would be located. I firstly cut this half then turned the plate to cut the second half.

The second cut is made more or less directly opposite the first, but ensuring that this cut tracks through the centre of the retaing bolt hole.

When refitting, use a suitable washer in order to support and tie together both halves of this cut retaining hole.

Clean up all cut edges with a small file then paint as above.

I used an auto panel black sealant to fill over the joins and prevent water ingress. I did this from the easy side not the rear of the plate. I guess most silicone sealers would do the job too.

There has been talk of welding the new plate back together once fitted, but trust me there's no need to.

N.B. I will now try and get pics on thread but if I fail pm me and I can email them to anyone interested. Fingers crossed .

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Hi TCB180

Glad you persevered with this job as I am in the same boat. Unfortunately when I click on the pics it shows as an invalid link.
 
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Thanks for the writeup and good to know that you got it sorted.

Unfortunately, as Ricks Cafe says, Invalid Link on the Attachments.

You could upload them to Photobucket (free to set up and use) and paste the links here.
 
you are supposed to remove the hub,then you can easily remove the backing plate.
 
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Good threads :thumb:
 
Why bother replacing them?

I removed the rusty backplates on my old Volvo and have never had any problems with braking or MOT test.
 
Why bother replacing them?

I removed the rusty backplates on my old Volvo and have never had any problems with braking or MOT test.

Because they hold the brake shoes for the handbrake.
 
Comment noted. The thread is about how to change them without stripping the hubs out. All they hold are the shoe retaining springs and the way I did this is more than adequately firm, safe and supportive.

Thanks guys I will try to get pics up unless someone more I.T. literate on here can let me email them so they can put them up for me??

No backplates is an M.O.T. FAILURE.

They are prone to rust where shoe retaining spring goes through as mine did. This allows parking brake shoes to lean out into the drum causing noises and a funny feel to the parking brake pedal when applying it.Plus the springs run around inside there.

You just have to have good back plates on the marque.
 
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You don't need to cut anything,remove the hub,cutting it in half and sticking it back together is wrong.
 
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I suggest you read the horror stories in stripping the hubs out. I did and that's why I chose to do it this way.

Ok if you have all the presses and pullers.

This method was suggested on here as a proven easier option but no one had posted any pics or method. I am merely trying to help those that are happy to do it this way.

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Phew ! Bit of a funny arrangement but pics now posted.
 
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My fear is pulling the hub,and as in so so many occasions over the years, the inner bearing race pulls out on it too.
 
My fear is pulling the hub,and as in so so many occasions over the years, the inner bearing race pulls out on it too.

Exactly, even if the hub came out of the bearing without the inner race, I would still consider the bearing scrap due to the force's imposed on it.
 
You`re right tcb180. Removing the hub is not an option unless one has full garage facilities.

Thank you for this very useful post.
 
Thanks. The o/s one is going to be done soon. Spring popped through but i managed to get it back on the opposite side. I will do same again but this time I will have plate cut, painted and ready to go.
 
I had the handbrake shoe retaining springs pull thought the backplate on my E46.

However, I was able to secure them by adding a retaining washer (with an elongated cruciform centre hole) behind the backplate. This is a part from old BL cars - Triumph Vitesse in this case, still available and a known DIY on BMW forums.

It has worked well for me, holding the handbrake shoes nicely, and saved replacing the backplate.
 
Unfortunately you cant seem to get behind the back plates on the W203 to do anything like that. I know the set up you mean. Worked on quite a few over the years.
 
OK, unfortunately I am new to Mercedes. I did have to undo the backplate retaining bolts and flex it outwards 1/2 an inch to hold the washer whilst engaging the shoe retaining pin and then refasten the backplate with the shoes attached. This took a while with an open ended spanner, inserted between the shoes and the backplate, one flat at a time.
 
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Took me quite a while as I had no template to work off, and I took other preventative measure too. This won't rust as easy as the oe ones that's for sure.

For you guys, just trust me on the cutting, and you can have your new plate ready to fit beforehand. It is quite straightforward.

Firstly, I painted the new plate after cutting it in two. I applied 2x coats of Hammerite Red Lead. Left overnight, then two top coats of Plastikote Metal Protector. (Dries in no time). Again left overnight.

I also wire brushed all suspension arms and treated them with Marine Quality Rust Converter. (24hrs to cure) then a top coat of Plastikote .

To assist you guys I will go through the process once vehicle is jacked up, supported and front wheels chocked, as you will need to have her in neutral with parking brake off, obviously, to get disc off, to turn drive shaft and to adjust secondary brake shoes upon completion.

Remove brake caliper and disc from vehicle. Remove auxiliary brake shoes ( taking pics or noting position of springs and pivot assembly. Undo back plate retaining bolts. (No horror stories here as bolts are very substantial and came out easily).

I then started to cut the old plate off using a hacksaw. I started the process from the upper most narrow area of the plate. ( where the caliper would be located ) cutting as far as I could.

I then manipulated the plate and finished off the cut with a bare hacksaw blade in a gloved hand. After this, a little bending process and perhaps a little more hacksaw blade on the other side and you'll be able to pull the old plate from the vehicle.

The cutting of the new plate was done from the same top narrow part where the caliper would be located. I firstly cut this half then turned the plate to cut the second half.

The second cut is made more or less directly opposite the first, but ensuring that this cut tracks through the centre of the retaing bolt hole.

When refitting, use a suitable washer in order to support and tie together both halves of this cut retaining hole.

Clean up all cut edges with a small file then paint as above.

I used an auto panel black sealant to fill over the joins and prevent water ingress. I did this from the easy side not the rear of the plate. I guess most silicone sealers would do the job too.

There has been talk of welding the new plate back together once fitted, but trust me there's no need to.

N.B. I will now try and get pics on thread but if I fail pm me and I can email them to anyone interested. Fingers crossed .

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I know this has been a while but could you repost the images as they have stopped linking properly.
cheers
 

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