Over the years, Chinatown has made some interesting transitions. First it became more Asiatown than Chinatown, as restaurateurs from throughout the Far East brought Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean and other cuisines and influences with them. But recently, a more subtle kind of change has occurred in the form of high-profile, non-Asian spots. The fanciful Golden Tiki arguably began the trend, followed by the highly revered Sparrow + Wolf. And now, in the former Chada Street space, comes Partage, the latest endeavor from the talented team behind westside French bistro EATT.
Partage’s menu is essentially broken into a trio of options: tasting menus ranging from five to nine courses; smaller, shared offerings and larger entrées—all showcasing the undeniable talents of Chef Yuri Szarzewksi. Whether it’s a squid “risotto” ($10), consisting not of rice but rather a granular rendition of the cephalopod in a creamy base, or a playful take on a traditional caprese ($8), served layered in a martini glass, his presentations are memorable.>
My biggest criticism after multiple visits is that, in contrast to the obvious eye for detail in the platings, numerous dishes arrived under-seasoned. Octopus carpaccio ($9) would have benefitted greatly from a hint of acidity, while I’m not sure anything could have saved the bland broccoli puree dip ($12). But there are must-orders, too.
The eel/roe/sea urchin trilogy ($12) is simply exquisite. A trio of miniature bowls deliver quail eggs cooked to a custard-like consistency, each swaddling the individual seafood offering and delivering a distinct flavor: eel’s smokiness, urchin’s sweetness and roe’s brininess. It’s a destination dish, as is the oxtail croque monsieur ($9), buttery from bone marrow and exuding the earthiness of truffle oil. There’s nothing not to like about this hearty rendition of the classic French sandwich.
Partage is in its infancy and, with a bit of attention, can become a true Vegas institution. In the meantime, I’m just happy for Chinatown’s growing culinary diversity.
Partage 3839 Spring Mountain Road, 702-582-5852. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight.
