Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

my acct to mcct conversion

90K views 209 replies 75 participants last post by  AceWebslinger 
#1 · (Edited)
tired of messing with these also. so I converted my acct's similar to kanuck's and man is it quiet now, $6.23 in parts and thats only cause I used chrome on some of them. been jumping through hoops trying to get the pics off my phone and camera but neither are cooperating tonight.
here is what I bought all quantites of 1

6mm - 1.0 x 40mm metric hex cap screw Chrome


#12 x 5/8 bonded sealing washer or (neoprene)


couldnt get pics to upload of these but also bought
5/16 x 3/4 bonded sealing washer (neoprene)
6mm - 1.00 locknut coarse, chrome
6mm - 1.00 hex nut coarse, chrome

remove capscrew from acct, relieve tension on spring and remove two acorn nut on housing and remove acct. also the metal tab from the oil line can be bent out of the way, bend the bracket only and do not twist the oil line. there is still plenty of support that you will not need to reattach it.

remove circle retaining clip and disassemble acct.
here are the parts I did not use.
cap screw, spring, small flat washer and larger metal spacer.


next take the threaded bolt with screwdriver slot in end and screw all the way into plunger, insert into acct housing and replace retaining clip.

then assemble hardware onto the new 6mm - 1.0 x 40mm capscrew in this order, nylon locknut, then hexnut, #12 x 5/8 neoprene washer and finally the 5/16 x 3/4 neoprene washer.

make sure orings on each side of mcct housing is in place and thread the whole assembly into mcct housing about 3/4 of the way. put mcct onto bike, you'll want the plunger in place and the new capscrew in enough so the housing will not lay flush on the engine. slowly back off the screw just enough so the housing lays flat against engine and put on the acorn nuts on the housing, finger tighten the new manual bolt and spin hexnut down snug.
start engine apply a little more or less tension till you like the way it sounds and tighen hexnut, when you have it where you want it tighten the nylon locknut against the hexnut to secure it in place. this whole process took about 20 minutes and 6 dollars for 1 mcct.
finished product





did not leak one bit and I'll let you know as I get some miles on her how shes holding up but right now she is purring like a kitten!
 
See less See more
5
#2 · (Edited)
I think when I have time I'll take it apart and reassemble on video if it helps!

I now have over 20,000 miles on this setup with no failure and no other mods than what
I did in my first post, jb weld if you like but I have not needed to yet!!!!!!!!!!! 11/10/2014 3 and a half years later
 
#199 ·
I think when I have time I'll take it apart and reassemble on video if it helps!

I now have over 20,000 miles on this setup with no failure and no other mods than what
I did in my first post, jb weld if you like but I have not needed to yet!!!!!!!!!!! 11/10/2014 3 and a half years later
I really could use some help on the work you did. My bike still has the acct it's getting pretty noisy and I really don't have 200 to spend at the moment.
 
#3 ·
Thank you! This is great! I'll be doing this on my bike this summer, only I think I'll use allen bolts instead.
 
#5 ·
6 bucks and 20 minutes, why wait til summer? I cant believe i rattled around and fought with springs this long. bought toc hd springs and one broke, went back to my old springs with more tension on them and that didnt last. this was simple and two 10 mm box wrench if I ever had to adjust them on the road I can do it without even shutting off the bike or let it cool down! I'm stoked!
 
#4 ·
Good job.

I may just keep my ACCT's and convert them for the hell of it since I already installed a set of TOC MCCT's.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Dang wib, that is so simple that I can finally visualize exactly how everything fits together. The threaded piece is screwed all the way into the mushroom headed plunger and held in the mcct body by the circular retaining clip.

Then it is pushed down/adjusted directly by the 40 mm long capscrew, sealed with the rubber faced washers and locked with double nuts.

Your parts list and and concise straight forward instructions now make this mod understandable and doable by ANYBODY, IMHO!:smiley_th

EDIT 17 MARCH 2013**** UPDATE*** OK, this thread has about 11 pages now with several variations to this conversion. There has been much concern about the 6 mm thread strength in the soft metal at the end of the ACCT body. In post #70 Wolfie describes his solution to the stripped out threads by using JB Weld to epoxy a 6 mm nut to the inside of the ACCT body. Also take a look at his post #67 with a diagram of his variation of components for this conversion.

Link to page 7 of this thread: http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17917&page=7

IMHO epoxying the 6 mm nut to the inside of the ACCT body makes this conversion almost as 100% strong and reliable as the TOC MCCT.
:smiley_th

Don't forget to come back and read the rest of this thread between here and page 7 for some good ideas.
 
#9 ·
Dang wib, that is so simple that I can finally visualize exactly how everything fits together. The threaded piece is screwed all the way into the mushroom headed plunger and held in the mcct body by the circular retaining clip.

Then it is pushed down/adjusted directly by the 40 mm long capscrew, sealed with the rubber faced washers and locked with double nuts.

Your parts list and and concise straight forward instructions now make this mod understandable and doable by ANYBODY, IMHO!:smiley_th
exactly, (threaded piece and plunger) this one I got together and tried so I didnt get pics of everything and am afraid to take it off again although simple, I can't afford to break a cirleclip or something simple right now as my truck is not running. when I do my rear one this weekend I will get more step by step pics or video!
 
#7 ·
Worked great for me too! Just did mine today only I used black allen heads 30mm long.. Bike sound like new now when it runs..
 
#8 ·
Nice write-up :smiley_th; You've got my Sticky vote
 
#11 ·
One question. You say to relieve the tension on the spring. How is this done? When I did the grambo I could only turn the screw clockwise and it sprung back like it should. I could not turn the screw counterclockwise.
Thanks
 
#12 ·
turn it clockwise to relieve the tension. I have a key from when I bought my toc springs that locks it in place when you relieve it but it is not needed. just you a tiny screwdriver, twist it and hold it there till you remove the acorn nuts, pull the acct off and let it spin back all the way.
 
#14 ·
On my acct's I did the grambo trick on, I can turn the adj. screw c/w all the way out, and the screw will stay in the end of holder w/o holding it with a screwdriver. I don't know if that's normal or not, but it does make it a lot easier to install the tensioners back onto the cylinders. Thjen I can turn it with the screwdriver, and it will spin down like it's supposed to.
I have my engine out working on the carbs and water lines, and I pulled the valve covers off and checked the cam chains, and the rear chain was slightly loose. I took a screwdriver and turned the screw ccw to tighten it up. I checked the tension with my finget to make sure it wasn't too tight. I will know more when I get it fired up this week as to whether it will work or not.
If not I will be converting them to mcct's like you did. Will post pics of mine, as I plan on going a little different route.
 
#15 ·
I'm gonna do my rear this weekend, I'm gonna try to video it step by step through the whole process and will post the outcome within this thread!
 
#16 ·
GREAT. looking forward to it. :beerchug:
Thanks
 
#18 ·
more than likely, I think the front cylinder is more prone to it than the rear. my front was knocking a bit the rear is still only ticking.

with the engine running if you remove the capscrew on the acct you might notice with every knock you hear the flathead slot inside will jump. careful not to overtighten the capscrew though it strips very easily, you only need to snug it up!
 
#19 · (Edited)
Yeah, I do believe it is the front on mine as well. It's not a real bad tick but just enough to aggravate ya, didn't really notice it until a couple days ago. I wouldn't have thought anything was bad at under 6,000 miles. And it's not adjustable correct? Doesn't do it all the time so its prolly in need of this mod soon. I appreciate all the help ! :smiley_th
 
#20 ·
you can buy heavyduty springs at www.tocmanufacturing but mine only lasted a few weeks when it broke and I had to drive home 40 miles keeping the rpms at a 2500, others have had better luck but they still only last so long, and no they are not adjustable although I took my old springs and preloaded with an xtra turn and got a little more time on them. toc makes a mcct for $50.00 but making your own cost less than $7.00 and no shipping.
 
#23 ·
Well I did my conversion today. As usual, a job that's supposed to take 20 minutes took me considerably longer...

A little background: I had stripped the threads on the front cylinder ACCT by over tightening the cap bolt on my first attempt at the Grambo trick last fall. I put a gob of RTV on there to hold the bolt in place and keep from leaking oil, and I have to say it has held up. I know I need to tap new threads into it and have already purchased a kit doing it. At the ACE hardware store I picked up the following: M6 x 30mm allen bolt (they didn't have it in 40mm size) 1/4 inch flat washers, neoprene washers, hex nuts and nylon lock nut. They didn't have the exact size neoprene washers wib recommended so I got something close. For the front I picked up a M7 x 30mm hex head bolt (they didn't have allen bolts in M7) I later had to go to Autozone and get lock washers and fender washers.

I tackled the rear first. All the ACCT parts worked just like they were described here and in the video. I inserted the allen bolt with the 2 neoprene washers up against the ACCT housing, followed by the 1/4 inch metal washer and the nylon lock nut. With the 30mm bolt there wasn't room for a regular nut too, and I honestly can't figure out what purpose it would serve. I ran the motor and adjusted till the knocking was gone.

I took off the front, disassembled it, and put the housing in a vise on my work bench. I have never tapped threads before. I figured out I would have to drill the hole a little bigger, the realized that while I am drilling for an M7 bolt, all my drill bits are measured in inches. I tried to eyeball it, holding drill bits up in front of the threading tool. I started smaller and worked my way up in drill bit size and finally was able to cut threads into a 15/84 hole. I washed the shavings out with brake cleaner, put the M7 bolt in there and it was actually a little jiggly in there, and so I'm a little nervous about how well it's going to hold up. Down the road I may pick up an 8mm drill bit and cut some M8 threads on that one.

Took it out for a ride and immediately noticed how much quieter the motor is. I hadn't even realized it could be this quiet! The ride was uneventful. I got back and decided to change my oil. After that was done I checked and the rear one (the one that points down) was leaking from the stem bolt. I put a metal washer next to the ACCT housing so it's up against the o-ring and added a lock washer next to the locknut. Still leaking! After dinner I put RTV on the threads in front of the locknut and where it goes into the ACCT housing. Hopefully it will do the trick!
 

Attachments

#24 ·
:doh::doh::doh: STILL LEAKING!!!
 
#25 ·
the smaller neoprene metal backed washers I used are very very tight on the bolt, you almost have to thread them on, hope that helps!
 
#26 ·
Thanks. I'll give that a shot this weekend. Too windy the rest of the week to ride here.
 
#27 ·
WIB: Another successful conversion thanks to your post here. Been on it for a couple of weeks now and I am very pleased by the results. Had to re-adjust once just to tweek it a bit more but all in all a very easy, cheap and very usefull conversion.

Thanks again.
 
#30 ·
Hmm, I went to ACE today and they had all the parts for this except the metal/neoprene washers. The guy pulled them up on the internet but said they don't stock them... I'm guessing your local hardware store had all the parts right? I'll have to try another one. Great write up by the way, I can't wait to do this on my front cylinder to quiet her down a little.
 
#31 ·
try lowes, home depot, I got all mine at menards!
 
#34 ·
Excellent info. Thanks so much. I've got one of these lil' farts that likes to tick and then not...then tick for a few...then not. Makes me nuts. But soon not anymore. :)
 
#35 ·
I did this the other day, and got it nice and quiet and it ran good that night. Today, I rode it to work and the battery died when I got gas. Knew the battery was going bad so got a new one.

On the way home, it dies at every stop sign. It starts up but won't idle. I got it home barely and it seems to have a knock kinda like the acct going bad sound but Loud. May not be related to the mcct conversion but I'm thinking maybe I should put the acct back in?? This bike has been nothing but a pain in my ass. I ride it a week then it's down a week, rinse and repeat until it just blows up lol.
Any help? Oh, it stinks really bad now too.
 
#36 · (Edited)
I did this the other day, and got it nice and quiet and it ran good that night. Today, I rode it to work and the battery died when I got gas. Knew the battery was going bad so got a new one.

On the way home, it dies at every stop sign. It starts up but won't idle. I got it home barely and it seems to have a knock kinda like the acct going bad sound but Loud. May not be related to the mcct conversion but I'm thinking maybe I should put the acct back in?? This bike has been nothing but a pain in my ass. I ride it a week then it's down a week, rinse and repeat until it just blows up lol.
Any help? Oh, it stinks really bad now too.
Maybe got the MCCT too tight??? Too much pressure on the CCT guide can slow the engine down.

Use a long screwdriver to create a makeshift stethoscope.
Listen to different areas of the engine until you identify the source of the knocking noise. :)

Describe the stinking smell please.
ie. gasoline?, oil?, hot or burning?, sulfur (rotten egg smell from gear oil)?, or what else??
Where is the strongest smell coming from? exhaust?, engine area? or??
 
#37 ·
think you would have to tighten it pretty good to kill the engine, but if you just screw it in with your fingers till its snug, start the bike you shouldnt have to tighten it a 1/4 turn or so at most, the acct spring you are replacing is not a very stiff spring at all so it shouldnt take much pressure to quiet it down. as for the smell?
 
#38 ·
think you would have to tighten it pretty good to kill the engine, but if you just screw it in with your fingers till its snug, start the bike you shouldnt have to tighten it a 1/4 turn or so at most, the acct spring you are replacing is not a very stiff spring at all so it shouldnt take much pressure to quiet it down. as for the smell?
I agree wib, but he didn`t really give any info about how he adjusted it.
Finger tight or used a wrench?? I don`t know.:confused:
I tried not to take for granted that he followed your previous directions for only finger tightening when diagnosing his problem.

Case in point. Old timers know the ACCT has to be fully retracted before installing it. We had a newer member last week who didn`t know, and who then installed an ACCT w/o fully retracting the adjustment rod and slowed his idle speed from 2k down to 1k rpm.
That fact came back to me when I suggested a too tight MCCT here. :)
 
#40 ·
someone should carry a fully threaded one, mine was chrome if that helps or a few members have used an allen wrench head that was full threaded!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top