Instagram
and Contemporary
Image
Lev Manovich
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Copyrights:
All text is available under Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0
International Creative Commons license.
Images copyright belongs to their respective authors.
Publication:
The book parts were posted online as they were written between 12/20/2015 and
12/26/2016. This PDF combines these chapters (with some edits), an Introduction
(finished in August 2017), and an Appendix.
The PDF can be downloaded from
http://manovich.net/index.php/projects/instagram-and-contemporary-image.
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Preface
Images from galleries of Instagram users from Vietnam, China, Japan, Korea, Hong Kong,
Russia, Ukraine, Belarus
Instagram datasets collected and analyzed by Cultural Analytics Lab
Cities visited by the author in 2010-2015
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Introduction: Instagram Platform as a Medium
Does Photography Exist?
Theory without -Isms
Methodology: How to Analyze Visual Culture in the Platform Era?
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Part 1. Casual Photos
The Instant revolutions in photography
The Importance of Aesthetics
Three Photo Types: Casual, Professional, and Designed
Casual Photos
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Part 2. Professional and Designed Photos
Professional Photos
The Subjects of Professional Photos and Hierarchy of Genres
The Subjects of Casual Photos
Designed Photos
The Reality Effect in Photography
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Part 3. Instagramism
What is Style?
Refusing to tell stories : Art Cinema and k-pop Music Videos
Instagramism and Contemporary Cultural identities
Meta-principle of Modern Design
Visual and Content Strategies of Designed Photos
More Context: Irving Penn, Martin Munkacsi, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Global
Minimalism
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Part 4. Themes, Feeds, Sequences, Branding, Faces, Bodies
The Aesthetic Society
Instagram Class
Instagramism vs. Normal Photography
Faces and Bodies
Instagram Themes
Designing Photo Sequences
Learning Instagramism
Do We Need to Liberate Instagram Authors?
Appropriation, Subcultures, Tribes, Mainstream?
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Appendix
iPhone models: release dates, display resolution, camera resolution
Instagram timeline: app releases, new features, new filters, commercialization
Proportions of Instagram users outside of U.S., 2013—2016
Top countries for Instagram visitor traffic, 2/2017
Instagram users growth, 2013—2017
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Preface
Millions of people around the world today use digital tools and platforms to create and
share sophisticated cultural artifacts. This book focuses on one such platform: Instagram. It
places Instagram image culture within a rich cultural and historical context, including
histories of photography, cinema, graphic design, as well as contemporary social media,
design trends, music video, and k-pop. At the same it uses Instagram as a window into the
identities of a young global generation connected by common social media platforms,
cultural sensibilities, and visual aesthetics.
My book is aБ eЛperiАeБt tВ see hВК Кe caБ cВАbiБe traditiВБal qualitative
apprВaches Вf Аedia theВry aБd art histВry Кith quaБtitative aБalysis that uses big
cultural data aБd cВАputatiВБal Аethods. I am drawing on the analysis of 15 million
images shared on Instagram in 16 global cities during 2012–2015 carried out in our
Cultural Analytics Lab, publications from many other labs, my own informal observations
from using Instagram for five years, and my direct observations of mobile phone
photography cultures during 2010–2015 in 58 cities located in 31 countries (see full list
below).
Media platforms such as Instagram continuously change during their histories.
These changes include new filters, new features such as Insights, Stories, and Archive, new
ways for advertisers to use the medium, changing capacities of cameras in mobile phones,
etc. All of this affect the subjects and aesthetics of shared images. As the number of
Instagram users grew from 30 million in 2012 to 300 million by the end of 2014, it became
a valuable advertising and marketing medium. The number of Instagram advertisers
increased from 200,000 in 2/2016 to one million in 3/2017. Over time, the strategies to
create and run successful Instagram accounts have been identified and described in endless
articles, blog posts, and videos.
The analysis in this book covers the period from early 2012 to the end of 2015 and
the reader should not expect that all characteristics it describes remain unchanged after
that. Instagram keeps modifying and expanding its platform, and its users also change their
tactics. The period covered here includes both the time when most people used Instagram
spontaneously without deliberate planning, and the later period when the spontaneous and
strategic uses co-existed.
My thinking about Instagram, social media, visual culture, history of photography,
and computational and visualization methods deeply benefited from interactions with a
number of close collaborators: Alise Tifentale, Miriam Redi, Damiano Cerrone, Nadav
Hochman, Damon Crockett, Jay Chow, and Mehrdad Yazdani. Thank you all so much.
Lev Manovich
December 20, 2015 (Pai, Thailand)–July 4, 2017 (Garosu-gil, Seoul, South Korea)
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Images from galleries of Instagram users from Vietnam, China, Japan, Korea,
Hong Kong, Russia, Ukraine, Belarus
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See Part 3 for discussion. Full size version of this montage is available at
https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturevis/27064111290/sizes/l.
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Instagram datasets collected and analyzed by Cultural Analytics Lab
2.3 million images shared during spring 2012 in 13 cities: Bangkok, Berlin, Istanbul,
London, Moscow, New York, Paris, Rio de Janeiro, San Francisco, Singapore, Sydney,
Tel Aviv, and Tokyo.
650,000 images from one week in December 2013 in five cities: Bangkok, Berlin,
Moscow, New York, London, São Paulo, and Tokyo.
1 million images from spring of 2014 in three cities: Kiev, Taipei, and São Paulo.
10.5 million images shared during February–July, 2014 in New York City.
150,000 images shared during one week in September 2015 in London.
10.5 million images shared during five months in 2014 in New York City.
Joint work with Spin Unit lab who collected the following datasets:
430,000 images shared during 2014–2015 in St. Petersburg.
800,000 images shared during 2014–2015 in Moscow.
Projects that analyze and visualize these datasets:
phototrails.net (2013)
the-everyday.net (2014)
selfiecity.net (2014)
on-broadway.nyc (2014)
selfiecity.net/london (2015)
inequaligram.net (2016)
what makes photo cultures different? (2016)
Publications:
http://lab.culturalanalytics.info/p/publications.html
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Cities visited by the author in 2010-2015
2010:
Amsterdam, Berlin, Breda, Cambridge (USA), Chicago, Coimbra, Dubai, Istanbul,
Kiev, London, Los Angeles, Milan, Murcia, New York, Porto, Potsdam, Reno, Rome,
Saas-Fee, San Francisco, Seoul, Singapore, Swansea, Utrecht, Venice, Vienna, Vilnius.
Base: San Diego.
2011:
Atlanta, Charlottesville, Copenhagen, Jeju, Los Angeles, New York, Saas-Fee, Seoul,
Washington.
Base: San Diego.
2012:
Avignon, Beirut, Cinque Terre, Los Angeles, New York, Palm Springs, Paris, Saas-Fee,
Seoul, Toronto.
Base: San Diego.
2013:
Amsterdam, Annandale-on-Hudson, Columbia (USA), Copenhagen, Hague, Hanover,
Los Angeles, Lüneburg, Minneapolis, NYC, Philadelphia, Richmond, Riga, Saas-Fee,
San Diego, Santiago.
Base: New York City
2014:
Barcelona, Berlin, Cambridge (USA), Dublin, London, Los Angeles, Lüneburg,
Maynooth, Palm Springs, Phoenix, Rhode Island, San Diego, São Paulo, Seoul,
Stony Brook, Troy (USA).
Base: New York City
2015:
Amsterdam, Basel, Belgrade, Berlin, Bilbao, Boston, Cambridge, Kazan, Kyoto,
Los Angeles, Moscow, Naberezhnye Chelny, Naoshima, Novi Sad, Pai, Philadelphia,
Phuket, Riga, San Diego, San Sebastian, Seattle, Sopot, St. Petersburg, Tallinn, Vienna,
Warsaw.
Base: New York City
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Introduction: Instagram Platform as a Medium
December 2015—July 2017
A phВtВgraph is tied to its time—what is good tВday Аaybe a cliché tВАВrrВК.
) believe that the treБd iБ tВday s phВtВgraphy is aКay frВА ВbviВusly theatrical aБd
staged photograph and toward the more spontaneous aБd siБcere Кay Вf seeiБg.
Alexey Brodovitch, BrВdВvitch ВБ PhВtВgraphy
, iБ Charles Traub, Steven
Heller, and Adam Bell, eds., The Education of a Photographer (New York: Allworth
Press, 2006), 133–134.
First, it should be noted that all of these pictures share a single trait: simplicity. If you take
only one thing away from this article, it should be that simple images do well on Instagram.
That s Кhy there are sВ АaБy pВpular accВuБts devВted eБtirely tВ АiБiАalist
photographs.
ShutterstВck BlВg, 14 Secrets to Going Viral on Instagram," May 11, 2014,
https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/14-secrets-going-viral-instagram.
"Always think of Instagram as an artist's canvas. Imagine that your feed is not a collection
of photos, but a painting of an abstract artist. Now think about where are the color
highlights in this painting. They should not all be in the upper right corner, or bottom left
corner. If they are distributed across the whole feed, this looks very organic and cool, and
attention of the viewer does not concentrate just on one side. Dissociate yourself from the
contents of your profile—selfies, or cups of coffee. Just think of it as a big beautiful painting.
It is necessary that viewer's attention does not go towards just one corner, but to the
painting as a whole. Capture a few images and use the appropriate app (Snug, Preview,
UNUM) to distribute them around your feed in such a way that all green color is not in one
corner, but some is in the right side, some is in the left side, some is below. Play with your
photos and organize them in different orders. You will immediately see how your gallery
will look very different."
Acta Acta, " а
)БstagraА а
ы?/И
а а - а
а , JuБe ,
2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIpvBFcKaKQ. Translations from
Russian by L.M.
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Figure 1.
Instagram App in 2010.
Figure 2.
Instagram new editing tools after application update in May 2014.
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Does Photography Exist?
What is Instagram? Why is it appropriate to focus an investigation of contemporary visual
media on a single platform? What advantages, if any, it offers for visual culture research?
Instagram is used in hundreds of different ways by its hundreds of millions of users,
so any single answer tВ the questiВБ Кhat is it will be insufficient. But we can ask a
different question: what is it in the context of media history? This question is more
approachable. Here is one way to answer it. Different elements of photo culture that
throughout 19th and 20th century were separate, now have been combined in a simple
platform. (Similar things happened with music, video or writing—for example, via
SoundCloud, YouTube, and Medium). Camera, photo paper, a darkroom, exhibition spaces
such as galleries, and publication venues such as magazines exist together in one hand-held
device. This single platform medium is remarkable development in the history of modern
media. It allows you to capture, edit, and publish photos, view photos of your friends,
discover other photos through search, interact with them (like, comment, repost, post to
other networks), enter into conversations with photo authors and others who left
comments, create photo collections, change their order, etc. all from a single device.
Released as an app for iPhone on October 6, 2010, Instagram came to exemplify the
new era of mobile photography —as opposed to earlier desktop Internet photography
platforms such as Flickr. It ran on iPhone 4 that Apple started to sell on June 24, 2010. This
model had 960x640 screen resolution, 5 MP back camera, and VGA (480 pixels) front
camera—in other words, it was sufficiently OK to be used as a mobile networked camera
and as a viewing device.
In 2015, 3.4M smartphone mobile subscriptions were reported, with the number
projected to grow to 6.4B in 2021, or %70 of world population (according to Erikson
Mobility 2015 Report). On September 2015, Instagram announced in a blog post that it
reached 400 million users, with 75% of them living outside of U.S, and 80 million images
were shared daily. According to one estimate, 2.5 trillion photos were shared or stored
online in 2016 globally, and 90% of these photos were taken with a smart phone.
Obviously, the much smaller photo universe of professional photographers, studios,
and print publications established in the 20th century continues to be very active. This
universe includes expensive equipment, studios, assistants, photo agencies, clients,
competitions, and awards, galleries and museums showing photography and exhibition
catalogs, and all the places where commercial photography is used—magazines, catalogs,
flyers, newspapers, billboards, ads, websites, etc. This fragmentation of the professional
universe makes it harder to study than user-created social media. During the period
analyzed in this book (2012-2015), anybody was able to freely download millions of
Instagram images and associated data in standard formats using its API. To construct
similarly large research samples of photo universe would be much more time consuming
since it would involve acquiring and digitizing many separate sources. Consequently, it
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now looks opaque and unsystematic from research viewpoint vs. relatively transparent,
systematic and easy to access Instagram, Flickr, Tumblr, Pinterest, Weibo, VK, and other
social networks and media sharing services.
However, because everybody now has to have a web portfolio, and because clients
require images and video for websites, social media accounts, and apps, the older
print/studio universe is also leaky. Some of its samples and data such as photos, credits,
metadata, and conversation do appear online, where they can be scraped or downloaded
via APIs and subjected to the same algorithmic analysis as the billions of photos native to
social media platforms.
Studying contemporary image culture via Instagram has another fundamental
advantage. From the moment Instagram app was released in 8/2010 until today (6/2017),
the company did not allow posting of photos to Instagram from any other app. Instagram
co-founder Kevin Systrom explained this unique characteristic in the blog post
(05/02/2013):
SiБce Вur lauБch iБ OctВber Вf
, Кe ve fВcused ВБ buildiБg a siАple app that has
inspired creativity while capturing everyday moments through the lens of your
mobile phone. In fact, our focus on building out a mobile-only experience is a unique
path that Кe ve chВseБ fВr АaБy reasВБs, the АВst iАpВrtaБt Вf Кhich is that
Instagram, at its core, is about seeing and taking photos on-the-gВ… We do not offer
the ability to upload from the web as Instagram is about producing photos on the go,
in the real world, in realtime.
This makes Instagram the most pure visual medium we have today from theoretical and
research perspectives. Instead of being concerned with hundreds of different cameras and
pieces of professional equipment and endless possible editing operations available in
Photoshop and or Adobe Lightroom, we only need to consider one native app that have
limited number of controls and filters and one type of camera. Moreover, from 2010 until
August 2015, Instagram had another unique constraint: all photos had to be in the same
square format.
However, the real Instagram medium is not always as pure as we would like it to be.
While the majority of users indeed used Instagram in the way intended by its founders,
others have worked around its intentional constraints. Many companies, professional
photographers, and photo enthusiasts have been using top professional cameras, lights or
other studio equipment, editing the photos in Photoshop or Lightroom, and transferring
them to their Instagram accounts via Dropbox, Google Drive, email, or using other methods.
The proportion of such photos has been gradually increasing during 2012-2015, but it still
remained very small overall. There is also another body of photos on Instagram that have
been captured on mobile phones and edited there using third party photo apps such as
VSCO, Snapseed, Afterlight, Facetune, etc. These apps offer other editing tools, effects (e.g.,
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masks, text layers, autВАatic face beautification, etc.), and filters not available in
Instagram app (see Figure 3).
Figure 3.
Tutorial demonstrating use of brightening tool in Facetune app—removing coffee cup from the
upper right corner of a photo. Source: Gunhild Kristiansen, Perfect Pictures Кith Snapseed and
FacetuБe, May 10, 2016, http://gunhildkristiansen.com/perfect-pictures-snapseed-facetune/.
FiБally, Кhat abВut ВБe caАera type ? It is true that cameras from the top
smartphones released in a given year produce very similar photos in terms of level of
detail, so from this point of view it is not relevant what phone model is used. However, not
all Instagram users regularly upgrade their phones to the latest models or have resources
to purchase smartphones with state-of-the-art cameras. Many of them are likely to use
older models, or cheaper models with more basic cameras—in either case, the output of
these cameras would differ significantly from current top camera phones. For example,
according to a 2014 estimate, only %40 of global mobile users overall had smart phones.
These numbers varied greatly from country to country: 63.8% in U.S., 47% in Russia, 34%
in Indonesia, 26.8% in Brazil, and 20% in India. Unfortunately, Instagram has been
stripping away camera metadata, so we do not have information on the camera used when
downloading Instagram photos.
As we can see, if we zoom into Instagram medium and start examining closely the
camera details and presence of professional and commercial accounts who do not follow
Instagram s suggested way to use the app, the purity of the medium is no longer there. But
if we zoom out and consider it in the context of 170 years of photography or other modern
media, Instagram looks remarkably consistent. In fact, the boundaries of a single platform
media such as Instagram appear to be crystal sharp in comparison to the media we had
before. In retrospect, they make these other media appear blurred—spread out between so
many evolving and heterogeneous elements that we are never sure where a medium is
exactly. What is phВtВgraphy ? What is ciБeАa ? What is a bВВk ? Thousands of
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academic conferences will not be enough to generate clear answers to such questions,
which look simple only at first.
Think, for example, of studying the world of photography in 1870, 1930, or 1990:
what a mess! You have to consider hundreds of different cameras, variations of available
films, and photo papers; numerous publications featuring photography; discussions and
conversations spread out between many magazines, popular press, and so on; and deal
with numerous archives were only very small samples of this photo print universe are
stored today, with various conditions for access and various metadata quality. Digitization
projects have been helping significantly on the last point, and big digitized historical photo
collections now are available from Europeana, New York Public Library, Library of
Congress, National Geographic, and other organizations. However, they can only digitize
and make publicly available what is already in these collections, i.e. what somebody
deemed to be important enough to collect.
Obviously I am being a bit ironic here and I certainly do not want to invalidate all
very important work by historians of photography, film, design, and other media cultures,
as well as people working in libraries, museums, and archives. I simply want to note how
platforms such as Instagram make us realize how incredibly heterogeneous other media
were (and continue to be), and how incredibly partial and biased are their samples we have
been using to construct historical and theoretical accounts. For example, for one of our lab
projects we downloaded all geotagged Instagram images (7.5 million) publicly shared in
Manhattan during five months of 2014—try to do this with photography in any year of the
20th century. (See On Broadway and Inequaligram.)
InstagraА s lВgically siАple structure during the period this book investigates—the
use of a singular device and the single Instagram app (for the majority of the users) with
the same UI (user interface) worldwide, the standardization of image sizes and proportion
up to middle of 2015, and standardization of how dates and geographic information are
recorded—make us realize the older mediums we are used to discussing as singular
entities are really just fictions of our historicizing imagination. Indeed, was ever such thing
as photography? What do Talbot's silver chloride photographs of 1830s that required an
hour exposure, MaБ Ray s
s photograms that did not use lens, and contemporary 50
MP photographs captured at 1/8000 of a second by cameras that focus automatically on
fast moving subjects have in common? (I am not even mentioning today s cameras
developed for sciences that can capture information at the rate equivalent to five trillion
images per second.) (See Figure 4.)
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Figure 4.
Was ever such thiБg as photography?
4a: The oldest surviving photograph VieК frВА the WiБdВК at Le Gras by NicéphВre Niépce,
or 1827.
b: Classic by KiА BeБsВБ, phВtВgraphed Кith CaБВБ EOS
Flickr photo with EXIF metadata.
D Кith
-270mm lens. Link to
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Or what about the first real-time transmission television system with 8 x 8 pixel
resolution demonstrated in Paris in 1909 by Georges Rignoux and A. Fournier and
contemporary 4K / 240 frames per second 100-inch LED TVs? The one thing that they have
in common—instant transmission of images over distance—is overshadowed by numerous
differences (Figure 5). The same is true for the three eЛaАples Вf phВtВgraphy listed
above. Thus, rather than thinking of photography, or television, or film as a siБgle АediuА,
it is more appropriate to consider each as series of separate mediums that are now
artificially and sometimes just arbitrary linked together by our histories.
Looking at histВry Вf phВtВgraphy frВА this perspective, we find many Instagramlike platforms, each characterized by a particular combination of technologies for capturing
photos, processing and printing, commercial organization, visual aesthetics and in some
cases also favored subjects, and a culture of use (in what situations photos were taken, for
what purposes, who was taking them, etc.). Think of popular Polaroid SX-70 camera
produced between 1972 and 1981. It created square iБstaБt photo prints in one size (like
photos on Instagram between 2010 and 2015) and created its own vibrant photo culture.
Or consider Kodachrome 35-mm slides. The price of the film included processing by a
Kodak laboratory which returned a box with 2x2 inch slides. This film was sold since 1936
until 1962—i.e. for 26 years. The film had a distinct color look different from other color
films on the market. Kodachrome also created its own photo culture of families and friends
gathering to see slide shows (Figure 6).
Figure 5.
The ВБe thiБg that they have iБ cВААВБ—instant transmission of images over distance—is
ВvershadВКed by БuАerВus differeБces. Image transАitted by Baird televisВr ВБ 26 January
1926. Screen size: 3.5 x 2 inches.
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Figure 6.
Kodak photo cultures.
6a: Kodak Instamatic Camera ad, 1968.
6b: Kodak projector ad, 1960.
Given these examples of long historical stabilities in photo history, Instagram
platform is certainly fast changing. It does not create a single culture of use but supports
many of them. Using 20th century terms, we can identify equivalents of amateur, snapshot,
professional, advertising, portrait, fashion, product, and other types of photography on
Instagram, in addition to new aesthetics and new subjects specific to mobile photography.
People look at the photos on their phone alone or together with a friend, or with a
boyfriend or girlfriend (which is popular way for young people to spend time on a date,
especially in Asia), or in a large group at a party or company event with photos projected
on a big screen, etc. Another behavior which Instagram and other social media platforms
support is, of course, sharing. Using Instagram app, you can share your photos to Facebook,
Twitter, Tumbler, Mixi, Weibo, VK, and other platforms. This sharing behavior does not
have direct historical equivalent in media history as far as I can see.
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To summarize our investigation, we started by marveling at the coherence and
logical simplicity of Instagram platform which combines many activities together in a single
structure—taking photos, editing and distributing them, viewing photos posted by people
you follow, discovering other photos, commenting, etc. It is also important that during
2010–2015 Instagram images were constrained to a single square format and the same
size, and that the app gave millions of people around the world the same controls for
editing these photos. This convergence of functions in a single interface, combined with
strong constraints on image aesthetics are key aspects of a media platform as exemplified
by Instagram. We then applied the idea of a medium as a platform to history of
photography, and found other examples of partial platforms—such as Polaroid platform
(camera + Polaroid film + instant prints) or Kodachrome slides platform (Kodachrome film
+ easy to use cameras Kodak cameras + Kodak lab processing + slides + a slide projector).
They are partial because they never brought as many functions together, but nevertheless
they qualify as platforms because of strong aesthetic constraints they imposed.
Because of a slower rate of technological and market changes in the 19th and 20th
centuries, some of these media platforms remained unchanged for long periods of time.
Taking this understanding of media history and looking again at Instagram from its
perspective, we realize that in fact its constraints and affordances change much more
quickly. So while the convergence of many functions makes a medium more standardized,
this effect is upset by the quick rate of change in how these functions operate (and of
course every big platform update also introduces new functions.)
Image cultures that develop around technological media are defined not only by raw
technologies, the ways they are packaged and promoted by companies, or the ways in
which people use these technologies, but also by cultural laБguages —systems of
conventions and techniques that define the subjects, narratives, editing, compositions,
lighting, sequencing, and other image characteristics. A visual language represents
systematic choices made on every visual dimension recognized as relevant for creators and
audiences. Here the КВrd systeА is БВt АeaБt to invoke structuralism, i.e. the idea that
each element is only meaningful in relation to all other elements in the system. Instead, our
idea is that the choices on different dimensions do not always exist in isolation, but are
systematically connected—or more precisely, correlated. Within a given photographic
language, certain subjects are more likely to go along with certain compositions, certain
lighting or other particular choices on different visual dimensions. In the case of
professional visual languages, these connections exist as explicit techniques or rules that
are taken for granted, such as three-point lighting for studio photo portraits. In the case of
vernacular photography, such connections are implied and common-sense (they can be
thought of in terms of Pierre Bourdieu s cВБcept Вf habitus.)
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Theory without -Isms
This book considers some of the elements of the medium of Instagram photography in
relation to the kinds of this АediuА s affordances mentioned above and histories of
photography, visual art, cinema, and design. We are not discussing social, psychological or
political effects and uses of Instagram—because many other researchers already study
social media from these perspectives, and also because such studies are only valid for
particular local contexts. (So far the most ambitious project to study social media use in
global perspective is a global anthropological research project Why We Post. But the
geographic coverage in this project is still tiny— 9 anthropologists spent 15 months living
in 9 communities around the world, researching the role of social media in people's
everyday lives. In contrast, our approach is inspired by a different research paradigm that
became common in quantitative studies of social media undertaken in computer science
and computational social science: collecting and analyzing a large global sample of posts.
(For example, see an analysis of clothing and fashion styles in 44 world cities using 100
million Instagram photos in Kevin Matzen, Kavita Bala, and Noah Snavely, StreetStyle:
Exploring world-wide clothing styles from millions of photos, June 6, 2017; and an analysis
of 1 billion Facebook photos in Quanzeng You, Darío García-García, Mahohar Paluri, Jiebo
Luo, and Jungseock Joo, Cultural Diffusion and Trends in Facebook Photographs, May 24,
2017).
We do not start with any existing theoretical concepts inherited from Marxism such
as capitalism, fetishism, commodification, etc. or any other –isms such as narcissism
(commonly evoked in studies of selfies), or –tion concepts such as gentrification. In our
view, doing this often prevents researchers from looking at the cultural phenomena in their
full diversity and specificity, and instead encourages them to only notice examples that fit
such concepts. The theoretical positions to which these concepts belong commonly assume
that a researcher or a professional is situated abВve Кhat she Вr he studies. A Marxist can
see thrВugh false consciousness Вf the Аasses; a psychoanalyst can unravel the structures
Вf the patieБt s uБcВБsciВus. These positions also assume that there is something wrong
Кith the pheБВАeБa beiБg aБalyzed, aБd the jВb Вf the researcher Вr prВfessiВБal is tВ fiЛ
it. A MarЛist КaБts tВ liberate Аasses frВА their ecВБВАic aБd ideВlВgical eБslaveАeБt; a
psychoanalyst wants to liberate the patient from traps of childhood dramas.
If your goal is to liberate peВple frВА aБy aspect Вf their curreБt lives, it АeaБs
that you disrespect these lives. This is not the position I want to take. Consequently, this
bВВk dВes БВt lВВk at its subjects critically Вr АВralistically. ) do not judge hundreds of
millions of Instagram users for their use of Instagram; I do not criticize people for posting
selfies.
I also do not assume that anything in InstagraА phВtВ culture is baБal Вr trivial.
In the paper (as )БstagraА FuБdaАeБtally Altered the FaАily SБapshВt ? by Effie Le
Moignan, Shaun Lawson, Duncan Rowland, Jamie Mahoney, and Pam Briggs (2017), the
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authors review literature about family snapshots to find such interpretations, and then
they repeat them in the discussion of their own analysis of such photos on Instagram:
The family snapshot is historically criticized as mundane, thematically ordinary and
lacking originality in composition and subject matter. Our analysis showed that
image sharing on Instagram, arguably, accentuates this... These are ordinary,
repetitive and highly mundane snapshots of elements of family life. This represents
an exaggeration of the visual tropes found in family albums, as opposed to a
deviation from them. The images retain the bland, safe and frequently replicated
compositions which are so highly critiqued in literature. However, the banality is
increased as the images become even more mundane.
I enjoy using Instagram for a number of years, and the position I want to assume is
that of an Instagram user who is curious about this medium and wants to know more. Of
course, you can argue that any theory is always above the phenomena, and the very act of
theorizing separates me from normal Instagram users. But this is not that simple. One of
the interesting features of Instagram culture (and the same holds for other major social
media platforms) is the existence of a truly massive analytical discourse in form of how-to
articles, blog posts, and videos (see Part 4 below for a discussion). These articles, posts, and
videos are created by Instagram users, marketing experts, journalists, etc. and they often
contain insightful analysis of the medium next to practical advice on best strategies. But a
presentation of some strategies—what to photograph, how to create an aesthetically
coherent theme, when to post, and so on—is anyway already a theory. It states that certain
ways of using a medium lead to certain results, and this statement is derived from
ВbserviБg certaiБ types Вf )БstagraА accВuБts hipsters, fashiВБ blВggers, etc. (For an
example, see Tiffany Kim, How Hipsters Make Their Instagram Photos Look So Damn Good,
buzzfeed.com, June 27, 2015.) From this perspective, many Instagram users also create
theory, and many more read (or view) it.
We want to describe characteristics that make Instagram a distinct image, design,
text, narrative, network, software, and social medium. We focus on characteristics of photos
and feeds of larger proportions of its hundreds of million users—rather than quantitatively
small groups such as pop celebrities, young )БstagraА stars, companies posting on
Instagram about their products, or individuals who post only particular content to acquire
large numbers of followers so they can later be paid for including products in their posts. In
other words, we are interested in the more common photo types rather than the Вutliers.
In the case of Instagram, such eЛceptiВБal users are what most pop media reports have
focused on, while БВrАal users are БВt beiБg discussed.
Aesthetically perfected photos (many of which are taken with professional cameras)
may dominate the IБstagraА search screeБ, serviБg as its Вfficial face aБd creatiБg aБ
impression that Instagram has become the platform where the casual and flawed no longer
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exists. We may think that what started as a platfВrА fВr producing photos on the go, in the
real КВrld, iБ realtiАe (Kevin Systrom, 2013) has in a few years become its opposite—a
platform where nothing is in real-time and instead every photo s cВАpВsitiВБ, cВlВrs,
details, posting time, tags, aБd pВsitiВБ iБ user s gallery are rationalized and engineered.
However, downloading and examining large samples of Instagram photos proves that
)БstagraА s visiВБ lives ВБ, aБd this is hВК it is eАplВyed by АajВrity Вf its hundreds of
millions of users.
Methodology: How to Analyze Visual Culture in the Platform Era?
The search fВr )БstagraА dataset on Google Scholar returned 9,210 conference papers
and articles (July 15, 2017). A significant proportion of these publications and papers are
from computer science. They have analyzed various aspects of Instagram platform and its
multiple users using large samples of photos and their metadata. For example, we already
cited above the study of clothing and fashion in 44 cities using 100 million photos. In an
earlier study, Yuheng Hu, Lydia Manikonda, and Subbarao Kambhampati analyzed most
popular Instagram subjects and types of users in terms what subjects they post (What We
Instagram: A First Analysis of Instagram Photo Content and User Types, 2014). Saeideh
Bakhshi, David A. Shamma, Lyndon Kennedy, Eric Gilbert used a sample of 4.1 million
Instagram and 2.5 million Flickr photos to quantify the effect of using filters on their
numbers of views and comments (Why We Filter Our Photos and How It Impacts
Engagement, 2015). Flávio Souza, Diego de Las Casas, Vinícius Flores, SunBum Youn,
Meeyoung Cha, Daniele Quercia, and Virgílio Almeida analyzed 5.5 million Instagram
photos with faces looking at temporal, demographic, and other trends. They have also
tested three alternative hypotheses about the reasons of posting selfies by considering
images for each of 117 countries in their dataset (Dawn of the Selfie Era: The Whos,
Wheres, and Hows of Selfies on Instagram, 2015). (If you are not familiar with such
quantitative large-scale studies of social media, note that researchers from computer
science and computational social science also have published tens of thousands of
quantitative papers that analyze characteristics and uses of all most popular social
networks and media sharing services, including Weibo, Facebook, Flickr, YouTube,
Pinterest, and Tumblr.) These papers contain valuable and original insights that would be
impossible to arrive at by using arАchair theorizing or small group ethnographic
observation.
There has been also many publications about mobile photography coming from art
theory, photography studies, and social sciences and they also provide their unique insights
that purely cВАputatiВБal aБalysis caБ t reach. The most important texts for me in this
diverse literature have been Daniel Rubinstein and Katrina Sluis, A Life more photographic:
Mapping the networked image (2008), Martin Hart, Ubiquitous Photography (2012), James
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22
Katz And Elizabeth Crocker, Selfies and Photo Messaging as Visual Conversation: Reports
from the United States, United Kingdom and China (2015) and John D. Boy and Justus
Uitermark, How to Study the City on Instagram (2016).
In the research projects and publications of our lab and our collaborators, we
combine quantitative computational methods and approaches from media theory, software
studies, film theory, and art history. Using such mixed methods, we have investigated
different aspects of Instagram such as its interface (Nadav Hochman and Lev Manovich,
Zooming into Instagram City, 2013; Nadav Hochman, The Social Media Image: Modes Of
Visual Ordering On Social Media, 2015), self-presentation (Lev Manovich and Alise
Tifentale. Competitive Photography and the Presentation of the Self, 2016), the interplay
between the everyday and exceptional (Lev Manovich, Alise Tifentale, Mehrdad Yazdani,
and Jay Chow, The Exceptional and the Everyday: 144 Hours in Kiev, 2014), and differences
in Instagram use between NYC neighborhoods (Agustin Indaco and Lev Manovich, Social
Media Inequality: Definition, Measurements, and Application, 2016). This book builds on all
this previous work and also my own observations of mobile photography cultures and
environments popular with young mobile photographers in over 60 cities in North and
South America, Asia and Europe since 2010.
Computational analysis of large samples of content on media platform such as
Instagram can quantify many photographic, design, and narrative user strategies and
patterns. It can reveal their relative popularity, geographic distribution, their mixture in
user galleries, and so on. But in my view, it is better to perform such analysis after doing
first non-qualitative observations, noting and describing the observed patterns, and
sketching hypothesis about their possible reasons and effects. In this initial stage, a
researcher can rely on her/his experience with the platform, explorative visualizations of
images and data samples, and also, ideally, familiarity with media history. This approach is
in fact what humanities researchers often follow and then they generate publications —
but we do not have to stop there. We can then follow up with a computational analysis of
large content sample to test the ideas generated in the first
observation/description/theory stage. (Of course, only some ideas can be tested in this
way). After the computational analysis another theoretical pass can be done to discuss the
results of this analysis, to compare them to the initial theoretical pass, and revise the initial
ideas.
In the 20th century, media theoretical analysis often existed on its own, but now it
can function as a component of investigation that also uses quantitative methods with large
media data, and ethnographic methods to understood intentions, motivations and
behaviors of the medium s users. Understood in this way, the goals of initial observation,
description and theoretical analysis become to: 1) generate hypotheses that can be later
verified, refined or rejected by quantitative computational analysis; 2) discover, describe,
and interpret patterns that maybe hard or impossible to study and verify or dispute
quantitatively given limitations of the computational methods or available data.
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This book offers such initial media theoretical sketch. It describes many patterns we
observed on Instagram, proposes some theoretical interpretations of what we noticed, and
also formulates many questions that can be investigated quantitatively using
computational analysis and visualization of large collections of Instagram images and data.
Some of the observations in the book are grounded in such analysis/visualization carried
out in our lab on millions of images from many locations, or existing computer science
publications about Instagram—but many are not. And since we also discuss relevant
patterns in history of cinema, design, photography, contemporary music video, lifestyle
publications, and stock photography, it would require a big team of researchers, lots of new
datasets, and lots of work to verify quantitatively even a portion of all ideas in this book.
Not verified by research and data, theory can certainly miss its target many times—but not
allowing ourselves to ever think without having data will be even more painful and
dangerous.
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Part 1. Casual Photos
December, 2015—January, 2016
Every age has its ВКБ gait, glaБce aБd gesture. By АВderБity ) АeaБ the
ephemeral, the fugitive, the contingent, the half of art which other half is the eternal
aБd the iААutable.
Charles Baudelaire, The Painter of Modern Life, 1860.
)f yВu see aБ iАage yВu have ever seeБ befВre, do not click the shutter.
The best Кay tВ achieve surprise quality is by avВidiБg clichés.
Alexey Brodovitch s advices tВ yВuБg phВtВgraphers. BrВdВvitch Кas Art
Director of Harper's Bazaar from 1934 to 1958.)
We Бavigate the sВcial aБd the physical КВrld ВБ the basis Вf aesthetic values…this
is aБ iБescapable fact Вf Вur huАaБ cВБditiВБ… We as desigБers have to engage with
this fact Вf life.
Patrick Schumacher, Facebook comment, 01/13/2016.
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Figure 1.
Color prints and slides from 1956-1976. Millions of such images were captured with mass
market point and shoot cameras and Polaroid cameras. In the former case, the film
cartridges were developed by photo labs using standard equipment made by companies
such Kodak. Depending on the film type used, the labs returned to consumers prints or
slides. The images are arranged chronologically left to right and top down. All images were
scaled to the same height. Keep in mind that that colors frequently faded over time; early
digital scanners used to digitize these photos could have also changed colors, contrast, and
lose details. Sources:
http://look-at-me.tumblr.com/ (a Tumblr with user submitted vintage personal photos).
https://www.flickr.com (only photos with Creative License are used).
The Instant revolutions in photography
What do people share on Instagram? And why Instagram is a perfect platform to
study popular photography around the world today? Most discussions of Instagram
in popular media cover only БarrВК cases: selfies, celebrities, )БstagraА stars,
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26
fashion bloggers. As photo historian Alise Tifentale БВtes, SВАetiАes claiАs are
Аade based ВБ ВutstaБdiБg eЛceptiВБs that catch peВple s atteБtiВБ, gВ viral, aБd
easily become a symbol of the whole phenomenon. Yet such symbolic images are not
Бecessarily represeБtative Вf larger treБds. )Бstead, they ВfteБ are highly uБtypical
eЛceptiВБs that ВvershadВК Аasses Вf АВre ВrdiБary iАages. Alise TifeБtale, Art
of the Masses: From Kodak Brownie to Instagram, 2015).
Generalizing the results of a number of our large scale qualitative studies that
looked at over fifteen millions Instagram images shared during 2012-2015 in sixteen
global cities, and taking into account findings from a number of studies from other
labs, we believe that at least during that period the majority of Instagram publically
shared images shВК АВАeБts iБ the ВrdiБary lives of hundreds of millions of
people using the network globally (see Figure 4)—as opposed to be coming from
celebrities, Instagram stars, or companies. (While the proportion of such specialized
images and accounts is tiny, they get disproportional numbers of followers and
likes. See analysis of 1,265,080 images and videos from 256,398 users shared in
February and March, 2014, in Camila Souza Araujo et al., It is not just a picture:
Revealing some user practices in Instagram,
. Thus, MartiБ (art s earlier
description of social network photography as the visual publicizatiВБ Вf ВrdiБary
life in a ubiquitous photograph" is appropriate for characterizing the larger part of
Instagram photography in 2012-2015 (Martin Hart, Ubiquitous photography, 2012).
This does not mean that people share the photographs of the same subjects
and that they use the same styles and techniques in every city around the world.
This also does not mean that they all understand and use Instagram medium
similarly. Our Instagram analysis suggests that the subjects and styles of
photographs are strongly influenced by social, cultural, and aesthetic values of a
given location or demographic. Figure 4 shows small random samples of Instagram
images shared in Bangkok, Berlin, Moscow, New York, São Paulo and Tokyo during
one week in December 2013. Even comparing these very small samples we can
already notice local differences. In 2016 paper What Makes Photo Cultures
Different? we present qualitative analysis of differences in subjects, techniques and
styles of photos from these cities using much large image samples. In another
example, when we analyzed 3,840 single selfies shared on Instagram in these cities
and also in London using face analysis software, we found significant differences in
how people pose (see selfiecity.net and selfiecity.net/London projects).
The eЛact cВБteБt Вf the ВrdiБary caБ chaБge frВА place frВА place, frВА
one demographic group to another, from one subculture to the text. Moreover,
while in big international megacities cities like New York, London and Moscow
Instagram was used quite widely in 2012-2015 by the locals and by tourists, it is
likely that during this period in other world locations it was only used by small
groups such as members of culture industry and English speaking young elites. (See
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Boy and Uitermark, Capture aБd share the city: MappiБg )БstagraА s uБeveБ
geography in Amsterdam, 2015. Their analysis of 400,00 geotagged Instagram
photos shared over 12 weeks in 2015 suggests that even in Amsterdam the platform
was used most actively by groups the authВrs call vaБguard Вf partyiБg cultural
prВducers, vaБguard Вf lifestyle prВАВters, aБd city iАage Аakers .
Such differences are very important for any arguments about Instagram
photography, or any other social media content. Thus, when we say that the
majority of Instagram images show moments in the ВrdiБary lives of the larger
proportion of the platform users, this does not necessary apply to all users in every
location in the world. This majority can be dominated by people living or visiting
only some among 175 countries where Instagram was used by 2016. (The numbers
showing proportions of Instagram users and images that come from each of these
countries so far were not published.) So keep this in mind when you read the rest of
this part of this text. Our statements are based on the analysis of large image and
data samples from 16 world cities (each with population over 1 million) we worked
on over four years, plus informal browsing of many Instagram accounts—but we
caБ t say aБythiБg as definite about numerous of other locations worldwide.
The ВrdiБary moments being captured by Instagram users may be
important for people to share with their friends (interesting trips, meetings with
friends, family events, etc.)—or they can be only of interest only to the author, and
therefВre lВВk ВrdiБary tВ us because Кe are БВt iБvВlved iБ her/his life. AБd
while the use of Instagram by companies and for commercial purposes has been
systematically growing, in our study period only a small proportion of Instagram
images belongs to domain that that Jonathan Schroeder calls strategic iАagery —
iАages iБteБded tВ persuade, prВАВte, Вr ВtherКise perfВrА strategic iБteБtiВБs
(Jonathan Schroeder, Snapshot Aesthetics and the Strategic Imagination, 2013).
However, this is not immediately obvious.
If we research Instagram by focusing on particular popular users or
searching for particular hashtags (#photooftheday, #selfie, #kardashian,
#fashion_week, etc.) we will only see particular subjects. While a number of
computer scientists have published results of the automatic analysis of large
Instagram samples, most often their samples are constructed without considering
locations were images were shared, and therefore they hide geographic differences.
In our lab, we adopted a different strategy to study large-scale trends in Instagram
images while taking into account such differences. This strategy is to download and
analyzing all Instagram images shared by all users in particular areas during periods
of time. The datasets we collected in this way include 2.3 million images shared in
13 global cities during spring 2012; 650,000 images from one week in December
2013 in Bangkok, Berlin, Moscow, New York, London, São Paulo, and Tokyo; close to
1 million images from spring of 2014 in Kiev and Taipei; 152,000 images from the
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center of London during one week in September 2015; and 10.5 million images
shared in New York City during five months in 2014. You can find the analysis of
these datasets and visualizations that show tens of thousands of Instagram images
together at http://phototrails.net/ (2013), http://www.the-everyday.net/ (2014),
http://on-broadway.nyc/ (2014), http://selfiecity.net/ (2014),
http://selfiecity.net/london/ (2015), and http://inequaligram.net/ (2016). See
Figure 2 and Figures 3a and 3b for examples of the visualizations and applications
created in these projects.
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Figure 2.
Our phototrails.net project that compared 2.3 million Instagram images from 13 global
cities. Project team: Nadav Hochman, Lev Manovich, Jay Chow. This visualization compares
50,000 images shared in center of Bangkok (left) and 50,000 images shared in the center of
Tokyo (right). Images were shared in Spring 2012. In the visualization they are organized
by average brightness (distance to center) and average hue (angle). The high resolution
versions are available here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturevis/8628507293/sizes/c/.
Figure 3a.
Screenshot from Selfiexploratory, an interactive web application from selfiecity.net (2014).
The application allows web visitors to explore patterns in a dataset of 3,200 Instagram
selfie images we assembled for the project. The application is available at:
http://selfiecity.net/#selfiexploratory. Project team: Lev Manovich, Moritz Stefaner,
Mehrdad Yazdani, Dominicus Bayer, Daniel Goddemeyer, Alise Tifentale, Nadav Hochman,
Jay Chow. Application design: Moritz Stefaner and Dominicus Bayer.
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30
Figure 3b.
The map showing locations of all 3,691,003 public tweets with images and geolocations
shared in London from November 2012 to July 2014. Designed by Moritz Stefaner for
http://selfiecity.net/london/, 2015. Collection and analysis of Twitter data: Mehrdad
Yazdani.
Home Mode in Photography
Our computational and informal analysis and visualizations of the collected
images and data—over 15 million images shared in 16 global cities worldwide
during 2012-2015—suggest that a larger proportion of people in many countries
usiБg )БstagraА fВllВК a hВАe АВde Вf the th century photography. Home mode
is a concept developed by Richard Chalfen in 1987 book Snapshot Versions of Life. As
summarized by Miller and Edwards ChalfeБ s hВАe АВde Вf cВААuБicatiВБ
showed that consumers typically share images—photographs, video footage—of
traditional subjects such as birthdays and family holidays. He termed the
participaБts iБ this hВАe АВde the KВdak Culture КhВ typically comprised family
and friends and knew the people in the images. EАphasis mine. Quote from Andrew
D. Miller and W. Keith Edwards, Give and Take: A Study of Consumer Photo-Sharing
Culture and Practice, http://www.cc.gatech.edu/~keith/pubs/chi2007photosharing.pdf, 2007.)
Of course, there are also many differences between 20th century home mode
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31
aБd )БstagraА. TraditiВБal subjects БВК iБclude fВВd, selfies, parties, etc. The
demographics of both photographers and people we see in photos also changed—in
many places, the majority of Instagram users and subjects are people in their teens,
twenties and thirties as opposed to more older authors of personal photos in the
20th century. But the essence of home mode remains the same. The majority of
Instagram authors capture and share photos that are of interest to the author,
her/his friends and perhaps family or expanded circle of acquaintances, as opposed
to complete strangers. (Joane Carde-Harde recently argued that camera phones
Аake frieБdship rather thaБ faАily ceБtral tВ sБapshВt phВtВgraphy. Carde-Harde,
FrieБdship PhВtВgraphy: MeАВry, MВbility aБd SВcial NetКВrkiБg, iБ Digital
Snaps: The New Face of Photography, eds. Jonas Larsen and Mette Sandbye, 2013. So
perhaps rather thaБ usiБg the terА hВАe АВde, Кe shВuld use the terА frieБds
АВde .
These authors are not trying to get tens of thousands of followers, not do
they share only their very best photos. Instead, they use Instagram for
documentation and communication with people they know. They may be happy if
their photos get many likes and they do not mind getting more people to follow
them and comment on their photos—but this is not their primary purpose. (See
Figure 4 for a samples of Instagram photos shared in five global cities in December
2014).
Here is some data from other studies that may support this conclusion. A
study by Pew Research Center from August 2015 reported that among Internet
users in the U.S, %28 used Instagram; among them, 18-29 age group accounted for
%55, and %30-49 accounted for %28. Among U.S. teens, %59 were accessing
Instagram Mobile messaging and social media 2015,
http://www.pewinternet.org/2015/08/19/mobile-messaging-and-social-media2015/). Another analysis Instagram in the U.S. in March 2015 asked teenage users
how many followers they have. %39 did not know. %25 of people reported having 0
to 100 followers; %11—101 to 200 followers, and %6—201 to 300 ( Average
number of Instagram followers of teenage users in the United States as of March
201 , http://www.statista.com/statistics/419326/us-teen-instagram-followersnumber/).
Together, these studies show that that Instagram in U.S. at that time was
used by large proportions of people in their teens, twenties, thirties and forties, and
that among the teen users, the majority (%81) had small numbers of followers or
did not even care much about the number of followers (Of course, in 2015, %70 of
Instagram users were outside of U.S., the patterns in other global locations may be
quite different.)
Note that the early study of mobile photography, already popular in Asia
years before explosion of global social networks, reached a similar conclusion. The
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2003 article by Mizuko Ito and Okabe Daisuke was based on detailed case studies of
caАera phВБe users iБ TВkyВ. EБtitled, CaАera phВБes chaБgiБg the defiБitiВБ Вf
picture-КВrthy, the article is important to quote in length because it also suggests
that early mВbile phВtВgraphy Кas used iБ hВАe АВde :
)Б cВАparisВБ tВ the traditiВБal caАera, Кhich gets trВtted Вut fВr special
excursions and events -- noteworthy moments bracketed off from the
mundane -- camera phones capture the more fleeting and unexpected
moАeБts Вf surprise, beauty aБd adВratiВБ iБ the everyday.
FВr eЛaАple, ВБe -year-old college student snaps several pictures a day
with her camera phone: a picture of her new haircut to send to a boyfriend; a
really large shell that she found on a beach; her pet in a cute pose; or a photo
of an interesting view from an escalator at a station that she frequents. These
are photos of everyday moments and events that are newsworthy only to an
individual and her intimates.
What cВuБts as БeКsКВrthy, БВteКВrthy and photo-worthy spans a broad
spectrum from personally noteworthy moments that are never shared (a
scene from an escalator) to intimately newsworthy moments to be shared
Кith a spВuse Вr lВver a БeК haircut, a child ridiБg a bike . (Mizuko Ito and
Okabe Daisuke, CaАera phВБes chaБgiБg the defiБitiВБ Вf picture-КВrthy,
Japan Media Review, 08/29/2003.)
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4a—Instagram: Bangkok
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34
4b -Instagram: Berlin
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35
4c—Instagram: Moscow
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36
4d—Instagram: New York
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4e—Instagram: São Paulo
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4f—Instagram: Tokyo
Figure 4.
Samples of Instagram images shared in Bangkok, Berlin, Moscow, New York, São Paulo and
Tokyo during December 5-11, 2013 between 12 and 2 pm every day. Higher resolution
(1920x1920 pixels) of these montages can be download from this Flickr album:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturevis/albums/72157662395080273
To understand what people share on Instagram in different geographic areas, we
download and then visualize all images shared in a particular area over a period of time.
The montages above show small random samples of Instagram images shared in Bangkok,
Berlin, Moscow, New York, São Paulo, and Tokyo during December 5-11, 2013. The samples
come from the larger data set we created for Selfiecity project (see http://selfiecity.net)—
all 656,000 images with geolocations shared during that week in 5 km x 5km areas of each
city. Note that because only some users make location visible for some of their photos, this
may affect the kinds of photos we were able to download using location as parameter.
According to the results of the analysis of 5,659,795 images shared worldwide by 369,828
users up tВ
, more than 18.8% contain lВcatiВБ iБfВrАatiВБ MaБikВБda, (u aБd
Kambhampati, Analyzing User Activities, Demographics, Social Network Structure and User38
39
Generated Content on Instagram, 2014). Since we only downloaded images with location
iБfВrАatiВБ, there Аay be differeБt patterБs iБ the Вther % Вf iАages that Кe caБ t see iБ
our dataset.
However, our own generalization that majority of people posting to
Instagram (in 2012use it iБ hВАe АВde dВes БВt cВver Вther photo cultures
on Instagram which, as we see below, have different goals and use different content.
Moreover, it does not tell anything about visual aesthetics of Instagram images. And
without considering the aesthetics, analysis of content alone is misleading. That is,
if we simply count categories of content in a sample of Instagram images (portraits,
selfies, food, landscapes, cityscapes, etc.), we will miss the differences between the
home mode and other photo cultures on Instagram.
For example, the same images of the ordinary subjects—for example,
everyday objects, cups of coffee, Вr persВБ s clВthing—can acquire very different
meanings depending on how they are photographed. They may look like random
things in a photo background—or be the subjects in the sophisticated, styled
composition. A photo showing a person holding flowers may be the result of
following established norms of amateur photography (which suggests what
АВАeБts, peВple Вr Вbjects iБ persВБ s life shВuld be captured aБd shared, aБd hВК
these subjects should be photographed)—or the result of conscious use of the
strategies from the 20th century art and commercial photography (see figures 17a,
17b, 17c in Part 3) that explored contrast between shapes and textures of natural
and human-made objects. If we reduce photos to descriptions of their content, such
differences will be lost.
At the same time, to be meaningful, the analysis of aesthetics has to also
include subjects of photos—along with the intentions of a photographer, other
context such as tags and photo descriptions, who follows this user and comments—
and also history of photography and visual design. To continue with the same
example, a photo with unbalanced composition and a subject cut off by the frame
maybe unintentional, signaling a very casual photographer. Or it can also represent
the work of a very sВphisticated )БstagraА authВr КВrkiБg Кith sБapshВt
aesthetics previously explored by many famous photographers such as Robert
Frank, Nan Goldin, or Wolfgang Tillmans. This difference may be a result from subtle
visual choices made by the author—or it can be purely the effect of context (for
example, if we see that all user photos have a consistent snapshot aesthetics, we will
realize that they are not accidents.)
)Б shВrt, Кe believe that phВtВs cВБteБt, their aesthetics aБd their larger
cВБteЛt caБ t be separated iБ life, aБd they shВuld БВt be separated iБ aБalysis Вf
Instagram medium. Therefore, we do not think that analysis of visual form as the
thing in itself is very useful. In this article, we start by dividing Instagram photos
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40
into a few types based on their visual differences, and then move from this starting
point to considering other differences: how people understand and use this medium,
how they implicitly follow conventions of photo culture or define their styles in
opposition to these conventions, how they construct their self-representations, and
how aesthetics, subjects, and techniques function together to communicate
meanings and to create emotional effects and bonds between authors of photos and
their followers.
The Importance of Aesthetics
We could have chosen other starting points, of course. So why chose visual
aesthetics?
1) Just as it the case with all other cultural domains, the aesthetic preferences
and choices made by all Instagram users— chВice here АeaБs Кhat phВtВs a
person likes and who she follows on Instagram, and not only what she herself
posts—may function to legitimize their social and economic status. There is a rich
literature in the field of sociology of culture that looks at the relations between
aesthetic preferences and social status. The two most influential theorists in this
area have been Pierre Bourdieu and Richard A. Peterson. (See Pierre Bourdieu,
Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste, 1979, and Richard A. Peterson
and Roger M. Kern, Changing Highbrow Taste: From Snob to Omnivore, 1996. For a
reconsideration of Bourdieu s aБd PetersВБ s arguАeБts, see Philippe CВulaБgeВБ
and Yannick Leme, )s DistiБctiВБ really Вutdated? QuestiВБiБg the АeaБiБg Вf the
omnivorization of musical taste in contemporary France, 2007).
2) People use particular visual aesthetics and styles to define their
АeАbership iБ subcultures, tВ sigБal their ideБtities, aБd tВ ideБtify Кith
particular lifestyles. (For a good overview of some of the relevant theories, see
Benjamin Woo, Subculture Theory and the Fetishism of Style, 2009).
PhВtВgraphy, iБcludiБg )БstagraА s versiВБ, is abВut АakiБg visual images
that communicate through their techniques, styles, and visual choices—and not only
content.
4) A significant proportion of Instagram users care a lot about aesthetics.
They use Instagram in aesthetically sophisticated and nuanced ways, as we will
discuss in detail below.
5) One of the main reasons behind Instagram app very quickly coming to
dominate mobile photography was its filters—a very quick mechanism to take any
phВtВ aБd Аake it lВВk visually iБterestiБg aБd appealiБg. See How did Instagram
become successful ВБ QuВra. After )БstagraА Кas released iБ
, КithiБ days it
became number one app in Photo category on Apple iStore in many countries. At the
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end of 2015, Instagram was the seventh largest global social network in terms of
active users, behind only Facebook, WhatsApp, QQ, Facebook Messenger, Qzone and
WeChat. For the numbers, see Sarah Perez, The Rise Of Instagram: Tracking The
App s Spread WВrldКide, 4/24/2014;
http://www.statista.com/statistics/272014/global-social-networks-ranked-bynumber-of-users/, accessed December 30, 2015).
In other words: if Google is an information retrieval service, Twitter is for
news and links exchange, Facebook is for social communication, and Flickr is for
image archiving, Instagram is for aesthetic visual communication.
While some points in our discussion below may refer only to Instagram and
its specific user interface, many other points apply to mobile photography in
general, with Instagram representing here this new photo culture. Historically,
popularization of photography and growth in the numbers of people taking photos
was marked by a number of moments then new smaller and/or significantly easier
to use cameras were introduced: for example, Kodak Brownie in 1900, Leica I in
1925, or Kodak Instamatic camera in 1963. (The later made square prints, and this,
along with square Polaroid prints, was the inspiration for original Instagram app).
The combination of iPhone (2007-) and photo-centered networks as Instagram
designed specifically for this БeК type Вf БetКВrked caАera this terА is frВА
Alise Tifentale, Art of the Masses: From Kodak Brownie to Instagram, 2015) opened
a new stage in phВtВgraphy s pВpularizatiВБ.
)Б cВБtrast tВ earlier phВtВ services such as Flickr, )БstagraА Кas АeaБt tВ
be aБ app fВr shariБg pictures Кith peВple, БВt aБ app fВr phВtВgraphers Sandhya
Ramesh on Quora, 4/23/2015). Or, to quote the conclusion of 2014 study that
aБalyzed . АilliВБ )БstagraА iАages: if Flickr users share high-quality pictures,
)БstagraА users share everyday activity pictures captured by sАart phВБes Lydia
Manikonda, Yuheng Hu, Subbarao Kambhampati, Analyzing User Activities,
Demographics, Social Network Structure and User-Generated Content on Instagram,
2014). (Note that the use of social and media sharing networks, demographics of
users and their visual and sharing practices change, so this conclusion may not hold
for 2016. In our studies we analyzed samples of Instagram images from 2012-2015,
so all details about Instagram in this text refer to this period.)
This БeК stage has its ВКБ specific БeК characteristics. The БetКВrk effect
(instant global sharing, getting positive feedback from other users, being able to
discuss photos with others, being able to use Instagram on other popular social
networks, etc.) are, of course, very important, but they do not cover everything.
Many of the answers to the question what made Instagram so successful? on Quora
point out how Instagram filters eБabled peВple tВ Аake bad phВtВs lВВk gВВd ;
they also name filters as the number one reason for Instagram success. (The earlier
app Hipstamatic already used filters but Instagram simplified their use and the
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overall experience of sharing photos). This is another powerful reason why analysis
of photo aesthetics is crucial for understanding our current stage in the history of
popular photography—and visual culture in general.
Three Photo Types: Casual, Professional, and Designed
What are some of the types of Instagram photos today and how they relate to the
20th century photo culture, and especially the period after 1960 when color
photography become more common? The examples of personal color photography
from 1954-1976 are shown in Figure 1.
We will analyze what we see as three common types of Instagram photos. We
call these types casual, professional, and designed. (The word styled is also a good
term for the third type). The examples of each type selected from Instagram are
shown below in Figure 5. (Figurse 5a—casual photographs; 5b—professional
photographs; 5c and 5d—designed photographs.)
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5a—examples of casual Instagram photos (multiple authors)
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5b—professional Instagram photos (single author)
5c—examples of designed Instagram photos (single author)
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5d—examples of designed Instagram photos (single author)
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5e—casual photos gallery from a single user.
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5f—designed photos gallery with moderate stylization.
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5g—designed photos gallery with stronger stylization.
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Figure 5.
Examples of casual, professional and designed Instagram photo types.
5a. Casual photos selected from 152,000 geolocated images shared on Instagram in 5 x 5km
central area of London during 9/21-9/28, 2015. Images were collected for
http://selfiecity.net/London. Each image is from the different Instagram user.
5b. Professional photos from Instagram gallery of @neivy (Connecticut, USA) during
October-November 2015. 869 posts, 11.7k followers (as of 12/28/2015).
5c. Designed photos from Instagram gallery @recklesstonight (Kiev, Ukraine) during
October-December 2015. User account: 123 posts, 52.1k followers (as of 12/28/2015).
5d. Designed photos from Instagram gallery of @vita_century (Russia) during FebruaryMarch 2015. User account: 255 posts, 28.9k followers (as of 12/28/2015).
5e. An example of casual photos gallery from a single user. A screenshot from iPhone
Instagram app, 10/15/2015.
5f. An example of designed photos gallery with moderate stylization. A screenshot from
iPhone Instagram app, 10/15/2015.
5g. An example of designed photos gallery with strong stylization. A screenshot from iPhone
Instagram app, 10/15/2015.
BВth prВfessiВБal aБd desigБed phВtВ type are eЛaАples Вf Кhat Alise TifeБtale
calls cВАpetitive phВtВgraphy. TifeБtale, Defining Competitive Photography,
1/18/2016). The difference is whom the authors compete with for likes and
folloКers. The authВrs Вf prВfessiВБal phВtВs aiА fВr gВВd phВtВ aesthetics
established in the second part of the 20th century, so they compete with other
authВrs aБd lВvers Вf such classic aesthetics iБcludiБg АaБy cВААercial
photographers. The authors of desigБed phВtВs assВciate theАselves Кith АВre
cВБteАpВrary, hip, cВВl aБd urbaБ lifestyle chВices aБd cВrrespВБdiБg
aesthetics, so this is their peer group on Instagram.
The casual, professional, and designed types are not intended to be
exhaustive and cover every image on Instagram. Note also that these types refer to
iБdividual phВtВs ВБ )БstagraА aБd БВt the КhВle authВr s galleries. SВАe authВrs
consciously curate their galleries to only feature professional or design photos.
Many more Instagram users are not as consistent, and mix two or three types. For
example, a casual photographer may sometimes take time to create more
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professional looking photos, and also, influenced by what she or he sees in other
galleries on Instagram, also attempt sometimes to make design photos featuring
iБdividual Вbjects Вr flat lays. We leave Вut frВА Вur aБalysis accВuБts Вf
companies and brands and individuals directly advertising products or services that
are often created with professional photo and studio equipment and professional
models. We do not discuss the essential non-visual parts of Instagram
communication: tags and descriptions, that are often few paragraphs long—thus
iБvertiБg ВrigiБal )БstgaraА s iБteБtiВБ tВ be aБ iАage ceБtered АediuА aБd
instead using it as a blogging medium. We do not look at network characteristics of
Instagram, such as connections between followers and users their follow (For this
analysis, see Lydia Manikonda, Yuheng Hu, Subbarao Kambhampati, Analyzing User
Activities, Demographics, Social Network Structure and User-Generated Content on
Instagram, 2014). And finally, given that the content, uses, aesthetics, and
technologies of all network media including Instagram evolve, our analysis reflects
Instagram use during particular period of 2013-2015.
We focus on casual, professional, and designed image types because they are
useful in revealing continuities and differences between Instagram photography and
earlier periods in photo history. To get an idea about the popularity of these photos
types on Instagram, we manually tagged a sample of photos from the larger dataset
of 152,000 Instagram photos uploaded by users in the center of London during one
week in September 2015. (For details about this dataset, see
http://selfiecity.net/london). The collected dataset only has publicly shared images
where users explicitly selected a location in the Instagram app. As a result, this
dataset has very few promotional images by companies, cultural events or places
(fashion shows, art galleries,) or celebrities. Almost all images appear to be shared
by Londoners or visitors to the city from around the world.
We have manually tagged a sample of our dataset to determine the
proportion of casual, professional, and design photos. Here are our findings: casual
photos is 80%, professional photos is %11, and designed photos is %9. Of course,
these rates can be significantly different in other countries and cities, but given the
presence of tourists from everywhere in the center of London from where we
collected photos, we believe that the proportions we found are not irrelevant. This
motivates the need to discuss these different types of photos rather than treating
Instagram as a visual monoculture.
A note about our use of terms. The four common terms used in the 20th century to
separate types photography are personal photography, amateur photography,
professional photography, and art phВtВgraphy see Martin Hart, Ubiquitous
photography, page 7). Personal photography can be equated with the already
described hВАe АВde : these are pictures aiАed fВr faАily aБd frieБds. Amateur
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photography refers to activities of people who invest considerable time to learn
photo techniques, compete with other amateurs, and participate in photo clubs
(popular in the 20th century) or online groups (today), and enter competitions.
Professional photography is photography where authors get paid; its genres include
fashion, celebrity, food, advertising, editorial, portraits, weddings, etc. Finally, fine
art photography is easiest to define as being in opposition to the other three. The
focus is on aesthetic goals and unique style, rather than on following of the
conventions of a particular professional genre. Of course, many documentary and
professional photographers who worked for magazines also developed their unique
styles, Кhile АaБy Вf the art phВtВgraphers Вperated КithiБ cВБveБtiВБs Вf art
photography of their time. When photography started to enter museums, galleries
and the art world, many earlier documentary and professional photographers were
retrВactively preseБted as artists. )Б geБeral, the АeaБiБgs Вf each Вf these fВur
terms (and parallel terms in other languages) have been changing historically
throughout the history of photography, and this makes their use quite problematic if
we are trying to place Instagram in historical context, unless we always state what
period we refer to.
We consciously avoid using the terА aАateur phВtВgraphy iБ the
discussion below—because historically there have been not one but at least a few
rather differeБt aАateur phВtВ cultures separated by equipАeБt used, the gВals Вf
people taking photos and their use, the presence of special amateur organizations,
publications and competitions, and so on. In terms of skills, the personal and the
amateur also correspond to a continuous dimension from a complete novice to an
expert photographer with many years of experience and fully professional photo
abilities. The terА prВfessiВБal phВtВgraphy caБ be equally prВbleАatic. NВrАally
we refer to photographers as professionals if they are selling to, or create their
photos for, clients. But what about people who submit their photos to any of the
stock photography databases or microstock agencies? (Microstock agencies accept
photos from wider range of people that traditional stock agencies, and also may sell
them for lower rates such as US $0.20.) For example, in January 2016, a leading
microstock company Shutterstock was receiving around 50,000 new photos daily,
contributors were paid starting at US $0.25 per image sold, and anybody older than
17 could apply to become a contributor by submitting a portfolio of 10 digital
photos (http://submit.shutterstock.com/payouts, accessed 02/13/2016). Such
contributors may sell only 1 image per month, or 10, or none. This example shows
that tВday prВfessiВБal phВtВgrapher alsВ becВАe aБ aАbiguous term. We will,
hВКever, retaiБ the terА prВfessiВБal —but only in reference to aesthetics of
images, and not whether the person producing them is paid. And finally, although
the terА art phВtВgraphy Вr fiБe art phВtВgraphy caБ be siАilarly prВbleАatic,
we will retain it simply as a useful designation for another sphere of photography
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organized around its own conventions and criteria for professionalism and inclusion
career, eЛhibitiВБ, phВtВ bВВk, persВБal visiВБ, etc.
Casual Photos
The overall purpose of casual photos is to visually document and share an
experience, a situation, or portray person or group of people. Frequently these goals
are combined—for example, a photo may show a group of friends engaged in
activity X in place Y in time Z. In that, many casual photos on Instagram are similar
iБ cВБteБt aБd fuБctiВБ tВ hВАe АВde phВtВgraphy iБ previВus periВds.
The documentation function was integral to photography from its beginning
in the1830s, but Instagram intensifies it. Instagram interface shows the date and
time for each photo and exact location both as longitude and latitude numbers and
as a point on a map (if a user chose to share the location). Increasing photo contrast,
sharpness and also bringing up details in shadows in photos by more visually
sensitive users also adds to this intensification effect.
Do casual photos have any distinct visual aesthetics? In these photos, visual
characteristics such as contrast, tones, colors, focus, composition, or rhythm are not
carefully controlled, so from the point of view of proper good photography these are
often (but not always) bad photos. We can guess that some users are aware of these
characteristics but did not want to spend time to control them; others have tried to
make good photos but failed, and some are simply unaware. Regardless of the
reasons, such photos are primarily documentation records, as opposed to aesthetic
objects. Or, to put this differently: the content of casual photos is more important to
their users than following the rules Вf gВВd phВtВgraphy, sВ a bad phВtВ Кith the
important subject is accepted rather than rejected.
In our informal browsing of galleries of random Instagram users, we saw
very few users who appear to be completely unaware and only take and share bad
photos. The majority has galleries that combine some visually unsophisticated
photos, and some photos that show some awareness of color and composition. Does
)БstagraА iАprВve everybВdy s visual literacy? DВ easy-to-use Instagram controls
and filters allow even naïve users make decent photos? These are the interesting
questions worth investigating empirically. (One interesting trend is the following:
the users who share consistently bad—from the visual point of view—photos
mostly post their selfies.)
While the casual phВtВs Аay БВt have refiБed visual characteristics Вf gВВd
phВtВgraphy, they dВ fВllВК aБВther set Вf pВpular iАage АakiБg aБd sВcial
conventions that define what is worth documenting, and how different subjects
should be photographed. Most of these conventions come from the world of
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vernacular photography of the 19th and 20th century, but some have emerged with
)БstagraА fВr eЛaАple, a phВtВ lВВkiБg dВКБ at ВБe s shВes . )Бdividuals Вr grВups
of people should appear in the center of an image. In capturing portraits and selfies,
full faces should be shown. Landscape photographs should have a horizontal
horizon line, as opposed to using strong angles. Food should be photographed from
an angle. Certain subjects are worth photographing—sunsets, historical landmarks,
tourist attractions such as Times Square in New York, or Big Ben in London. (For
example, in our analysis of 10.5 million Instagram photos shared in New York in
2014, %13.5 of all images was shared in Times Square area. For details, see
http://on-broadway.nyc/).
The conventions of vernacular photography dictate both what and how. They
filter the visible world and the flows of human lives to select the moments and
occasions worth documenting. In this sense casual photography is anything but
casual. The images in Figure 5a show some of these conventions for Instagram
casual photography; the images in Figure 1 shows some conventions for personal
photography in the analog era. This photo activity can be said to exactly invert the
advice that was given by famous Vogue art director Alexei Brodovitch to his photo
studeБts: If you see an image you have ever seen before, do not click the shutter.
Instead, creators of photos shown in Figure 1 and Figure 5a seem to follow the
rule: )f yВu iАage lВВks like АaБy iАages yВu have seeБ befВre, capture it.
In summary, casual photography follows its own set of rules just as
professional and designed photos do, as we will see below. More precisely, rather
thaБ usiБg the terА rules Кhich iАplies ВБly tКВ pВssible behaviВrs—follow the
rule or go against the rules—we may instead think of probabilities. David Bordwell
used the concept of probability to describe film style in the mid-20th century
Hollywood cinema and the choices made in selecting what and how will be shown in
the next shot given previous shots, but we can also apply this concept to still
phВtВgraphy aБd videВ by iБdividuals. See David BВrdКell, Classical (ВllyКВВd
Cinema: Narrational Principles and Procedures, in Narrative, Apparatus, Ideology: A
Film Theory Reader, ed. Philip Rosen, Columbia University Press, 1986.) That is, we
can propose a hypothesis that Instagram casual photos are more likely—in other
words, have higher probability—to show some subjects rather than others, and are
also more likely to show these subjects in particular ways in terms of composition,
point of view, focus, lighting, etc. The same is probably also true for professional and
designed photography, but the distribution of probabilities values for subjects,
photographic techniques and editing will be different for each type. Given that today
mobile phones can hold thousands of photos and also automatically back them up to
network services—as opposed to the 20th century 35mm still film formats that had
only 12-36 exposures and thus encouraged careful planning of every shot—it would
be interesting to see if the distributions of subjects and techniques in contemporary
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casual phВtВgraphy has a bigger lВБg tail i.e., subjects aБd techБiques use Кith
less probability) than in the 20th century amateur non-competitive photography.
(For history of film formats for photography, see
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/35_mm_film).
How do photo sharing apps and services such as Instagram, Pinterest, and
Tumblr, their user interfaces, and particular navigation and organization functions
affect contemporary photo conventions? And how did designs of 20th century
cameras and other commercial elements of popular photo culture helped to shape
these conventions in earlier periods? These are fascinating questions beyond the
scope of this text. One thing we can note is the adoption of controls for a number of
scene types that already happened in analog film cameras. Digital cameras of 2000s
expanded the number of scene settings offered. Today they may include portrait,
candlelight portrait, night portrait, fireworks, food, children, pet, landscape, sports,
macro, etc. The dedicated controls for these subject categories both reflect what
people like to photograph and at the same time enforce these preferences, making
them appear natural. Here, the conventions are literally hard wired in camera
designs.
A complementary development in the 2010s is automatic organization of
user s phВtВs iБtВ a БuАber Вf categВries Вffered by phВtВ stВrage aБd ВrgaБiziБg
software such as Google Photos app. The latter classifies photos into People, Places,
and Things that for example can include Selfies, Sky, Skyscrapers, Cars, Posters,
Skylines, Beaches, Food, etc. (Google Photos sub-categories for Things category, Lev
MaБВvich s iPhone, 01/03/2016.) This automatic classification of photos into
familiar categories by software further naturalizes these categories for users of
these apps.
Finally, we should note that not all casual photos are taken by casual
photographers. Some of them are intentionally created by authors who have
professional photo skills but who on purpose want to feature casual photos in their
galleries. )Б phВtВgraphy s histВry, the iБteБtiВБal adВptiВБ aБd eveБ iБteБsificatiВБ
of casual look by professional art photographers happened already a number of
times—such as, fВr eЛaАple, iБ RВbert FraБk s
phВtВ bВВk The Americans later
credited Кith establishiБg snapshВt aesthetics. While
phВtВs iБ the bВВk ВfteБ
look like happy accidents, Frank selected them from 28,000 photos he took across
the U.S. over more than two years. Different types of snapshot aesthetics were
developed in the 1960s by Japanese photographers such as Yutaka Takanashi and
Daidō MВriyaАa iБ the
s, by Kharkiv School of photography in Ukraine that
included Boris Mikhailov (who referred tВ his practice as bad phВtВgraphy , by
the American William Eggleston (credited with bringing color to art photography—
combined with the snapshot aesthetics), and many others in the following decades
(see Figures 6a, 6b, and 6c). (For The Kharkiv School, see Igor Manko, The Kharkiv
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School of Fine Art Photography.)
Today on Instagram, many professional fashion models use casual aesthetics
for their photos, for example. In contrast to their super-polished and controlled
iАages iБ ads aБd editВrials, their )БstagraА galleries feature БВБ-essential
АВАeБts Вf their lives Вur iБversiВБ Вf Cartier-BressВБ s the decisive moment ).
This dВes БВt АeaБ that these iАages are iБ reality uБpreАeditated, uБiБteБtiВБal,
spВБtaБeВus —but it alsВ dВes БВt АeaБ that they are staged, plaББed, calculated.
In contemporary culture (including Instagram), such categories are neither in
opposition, nor are they blurred. Our iБtuitiВБ is that cВБteАpВrary cultural
subjects and artifacts they and many others produce exist outside of categories are
in a different space with its own coordinates, which still needs to be described.
The comparison between personal photos in Figure 1 and examples of
different kinds of snapshot aesthetics from art photographers in Figure 6 supports
such intuition and show that using any simple sets of binary categories
oversimplifies things. When taken together, we can say that these art photographers
(and these are only a few of many others identified with snapshot aesthetics)
opposed both aesthetics of commercial photography of their time and also earlier
modernist photography (see Figure 14 and Figure 15 in Part 3) if they lived in the
West, or state-approved propagandistic photography if they lived in Communist
countries. But taken separately, we can see that each developed a different visual
language of the casual.
6a—Robert Frank
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6b—Daido Moriyama and Yutaka Takanashi
6c—William Eggleston
Figure 6.
Examples of work by well- kБВКБ phВtВgraphers referred tВ as sБapshВt aesthetics
practitioners.
6a. Robert Frank, two photographs from the book Americans, 1958.
b. DaidВ MВriyaАa, MaБ aБd WВАaБ, YВkВhaАa,
; Yutaka TakaБashi,
6c. William Eggleston, two photographs from 1970 and 1976.
.
The works of these photographers also make it even clearer that there was
nothing casual in amateur photography in the same decades (Figure 1). Remember
that users of mass market cameras and films had to rely on the special labs for
processing slide film or getting prints, and this was not free and also required
additional time and trips. So while certainly mistakes were made and bad photos
were taken, the ones that were printed and survive are the successful ones.
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(Unfortunately, since today there is no archive of digitized amateur photos from any
period in the 20th century which is sufficiently big and random, it s very hard to do
any qualitative analysis of amateur culture in retrospect, and prove or correct such
intuitive evaluations.) The short color film rolls and cartridges were too important
to waste on random photos, or on taking many photos of un-edited life before the
camera in the hope that one of these photos will turn our great. Moreover, when
taking photos of human subjects, the amateurs followed the conventions and
arranged their subjects by asking people to stand together, in particular order,
smile, etc. In summary, while we may think today of older amateur photography as
casual aБd the phВtВs as accideБtal, eЛactly ВppВsite Кas АВst likely true. OБly
with the mass adoption of digital cameras in 2000s more casual photography
become possible, because now cameras could store many photos.
Just as with realism in literary fiction, it appears that true systematic
sБapshВt aesthetics Кas ВБly achievable by hard КВrkiБg full tiАe art
phВtВgraphers such as the peВple АeБtiВБed abВve. TВ see aБd capture reality,
they had to invert both the conventions of what and how is worth photographing,
and the aesthetics of good photography that call for reproducing the details, having
full range of tones, and minimizing film artifacts. But such inversions are not simply
binary—because every art photographer (or a group of photographers working in
one city and learning from each other) who successfully developed their own
snapshot aesthetics went into a different and at least in some ways unique direction.
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Part 2. Professional and Designed Photos
January 2016
We re really excited to launch our first version of Instagram today, free in the App Store.
Instagram makes mobile photos fast, simple, & beautiful.
WelcВАe tВ )БstagraА, OctВber ,
,
http://blog.instagram.com/post/8755272623/welcome-to-instagram.)
Professional Photos and the Rules of Good Photography
Having discussed casual photos on Instagram in Part 1, we will now analyze the
second common type—professional photos. The examples of these photos are shown
in Figure 5b. Note that most of these photos are not from photographers who went
to photo schools and/or making money from their commercial photography. We are
usiБg the terА prВfessiВБal tВ refer tВ the rules Вf phВtВgraphy cВdified iБ the
textbooks during the second part of the 20th century and now repeated in numerous
instructional videos, photo blog and websites, and texts used in photo classes. The
lists of such rules may differ but what is important for our characterization of
professional Instagram photos is that they were fully established before Instagram
and mobile photography stage. The examples of such rules are the rule Вf thirds ;
proper exposure that shows details in shadows, middle tones and highlights; use of
line orientations that lead the eye into distance or, on the contrary, make subject
appear more flat; balanced colors without any color tint dominating. (The
pioneering paper that used of computer vision to study of characteristics of photos
including the use of such rules and their effect on aesthetic judgements of photos is
Ritendra Datta et al., Studying Aesthetics in Photographic Images Using a
Computational Approach, 2006. This is now big research area within computer
science. For recent examples, see Sergey Karayev et al., Recognizing Image Style,
, aБd AydдБ, Smolic, and Gross, Automated Aesthetic Analysis of Photographic
Images,
. The Datta s paper have beeБ beeБ cited iБ 487 other papers by
1/2016, which indicates the scale of this research.)
Of course lots of modern photographers systematically broke many of these
rules to develop their unique styles, producing photos that may have low contrast,
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dВАiБaБce Вf ВБe hue, aБd Вther iБteБtiВБal Аistakes. But breakiБg the rules
required solid understanding and mastery of them in the first place.
As we can see from the examples in Figure 5b, the use of professional rules
by Instagram authors does not always produce visually interesting photos. So, in our
use, prВfessiВБal refers tВ the systeАatic use Вf rules regardless Вf Кhether they
fully understand them or just imitate Вthers Вf gВВd phВtВgraphy by )БstagraА
authВrs, aБd БВt aesthetic quality Вf the phВtВs Вr persВБ s phВtВ traiБiБg.
Some of the rules of such good photography have been already implemented
for years in algorithms included in all types of digital cameras, from smart phones to
the larger full frame cameras from Nikon, Canon and Sony costing thousands of
dollars (plus thousands more for appropriate lenses for such cameras). Leaving
settings at defaults settings typically fires these algorithms when a photo is taken.
The algorithms focus camera on the detected face or faces, sharpen photo after the
capture, balance grey scale and color histograms, apply image stabilization, etc.
They also adjust these and other photo characteristics together to fit the
automatically detected or user selected scene types we already mentioned above
thus offering meta-automation. In these ways, many of the rules that characterized
modern professional photography are now applied by cameras automatically during
capture, but others such as composition, use of particular line orientations, proper
lighting or establishment of rhythm still have to be learned and practiced manually.
Since the phone cameras apply some of the rules automatically to all captured
photos, this may make the proportion of professional photos on Instagram and
other media sharing sites higher than it was overall in the 20th century photography.
Some Instagram photographs follow all rules Вf gВВd phВtВgraphy – proper
composition, focus, greyscale and color balance, and interesting subjects. But many
more photos follow only some of these rules, but not all. This can be partly related to
the use of automatic algorithms in phone cameras that implement only some rules.
For example, a photo may have perfect contrast and balanced colors but bad
composition. Or the photo may have interesting dynamic composition but be
overexposed.
The example of how rules of good photography from the second part of the
th
20 century continue to function today without change can be found on the website
of already mentioned Shutterstock microstock agency. To help potential
contributors understand what photos will interest customers, one article on the site
summarizes the requirements:
a. CВАpВsition—make sure the subject is well framed and is clearly defined
within the borders of the image.
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b. Focus—Is your subject in focus? Use a tripod when necessary or
appropriate. Do not always rely on auto over-ride it manually when
necessary to ensure a sharp well defined subject.
c. Lighting—Your subject should be well lit. Use exposure compensation to
make sure your image is not under or over exposed.
d. Inspect all of your images at 100% before submitting them. Our reviewers
look at all imagery at this magnification to search for technical problems—
noise, critical focus, dust, sensor issues, chromatic aberrations, etc. …
Ashley Hefnawy, How To Prepare Your First Shutterstock Submission,
January 23, 2014, http://www.shutterstock.com/blog/how-to-prepare-yourfirst-submission.
The Subjects of Professional Photos and Hierarchy of Genres
Stock agencies developed taxonomy of the subjects of photos (along with video,
vector art, and other image types) subjects to help the clients find appropriate
photos. For example, on 02/13/2016, some of the categories on iStock website were
cВuple, КillpВКer, liberatiВБ, aБd iБdepeБdeБce
(http://www.istockphoto.com/stock-photos/). Another agency Shutterstock
publishes the list of 20 most searched terms; on 12/18/2015, the top five were sky,
background, business, beach, and food (the list also included wood texture as
number 12, and paper texture as number 18;
http://www.shutterstock.com/photos/).
While stock photography aims to cover all kinds of content to meet needs of
all commercial or non-profit clients, what about other photographs that are highly
professional (in our use of this term) and, to use the terms of Tifentale and
Schroeder, are competitive but not strategic (they do not advertise, promote or
persuade)? What subjects do they favor? While we have not analyzed separately the
content of such professional photos on Instagram, we give an approximate answer
to this question by considering content of photos on Flickr—which developed the
reputation as the site for professional photographers in contrast to Instagram. (One
of the answers ВБ QuВra tВ the questiВБ Why did Instagram become so successful
states: Flickr ,
PX are tВВ prВfessiВБal for normal people who are not able to
share high quality phВtВs. . SВ if Кe assuАe that Flickr Кas a gВВd represeБtatiВБ
of professional competitive non-strategic photography until about 2013, the
analysis of content of large samples of photos uploaded to the site should be
revealing. (After that the majority of photos uploaded to Flickr started to come from
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mobile phones, and iPhone and Samsung started to dominate over the names of
dSLR caАeras. See Chris GaАbat, AБ )БdepeБdeБt AБalysis Вf Flickr s MВst PВpular
Tags , 09/06/2015).
In 2014 Flickr released a dataset of 100 million photos with Creative
Commons licenses for use by all interested researchers David A. ShaААa, One
Hundred Million Creative Commons Flickr Images for Research,
/ /
. The
use of these licenses most likely makes this dataset a good representation of
interests of serious photography enthusiasts, as opposed to photographers who
create photos to sell—i.e., exactly the category we are interested in. The photos
came with computer generated tags describing images content. Damon Crockett
from our lab analyzed the data and found that the majority of photos were created
between 2006 and 2013. Here are five top content tags for these photos and their
relative frequencies. The frequencies are counted in relation to the top category (set
to 1.00):
outdoor—1.00;
indoor—0.58;
nature— 0.43;
people—0.35;
architecture—0.31
As we can see, the outside world dominates ВutdВВr, Бature aБd
architecture . and this outside contains both nature and architecture. Searching
Flick for tags describing photos taken with dSLR cameras such as Canon EOS 6D
reveals a similar pattern (Figure 1; we borrowed this idea from GaАbat, AБ
IndepeБdeБt AБalysis Вf Flickr s MВst PВpular Tags . This suggests that laБdscapes
and cityscapes are the most frequent subjects for serious photography enthusiasts.
Why? People as subjects are too particular, too concrete; too private; we the viewers
of photos may like the face of one person but not another. Nature and city views are
also concrete offering infinite details to the camera, but it is a different kind of
universally appealing concreteness. At the same time, all details present in
perspectival views offer best opportunity to show off the capabilities of high
resolution sensors in expensive professional camera and expensive lenses. In fact,
often professional photos of such views show much more detail than a human eye
can see from the same point of view, and this super-realism is one of the most clear
markers of photo professionalism today.
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Figure 1.
A sАall saАple Вf iАages returБed by Flickr КheБ searchiБg iАage tags fВr CaБВБ EOS D.
This is a professional high-end dSLR camera with full frame 20 megapixel censor. The
camera was released by Canon in 11/2012; the suggest retail price was US $2,900. Note that
purchasing a few professional level lenses to use with such a camera adds another few
thousands to the price. Flickr search was performed on 01/19/2016.
The photos that compete for awards in global competitions such as Sony
awards by WPO (World Photo Organization) illustrate well this super-realism and
other aesthetic ideals of professional photography today (see Figure 2). To us, they
look very artificial: too staged, too contrived, with too much detail and too perfect
colors. In fact, they look like academic paintings of the 19th century Paris salons or
mid-20th century socialist realism as practiced in USSR or China, or works of
classical antiquity that follow exact rules. And just as it is the case with such
paintings, the photos that win in Sony competitions also appear to have a strict
genre system, with no deviations.
The art academies of the 17th century formalized a hierarchy of genres of
painting. Here are these genres from highest to lowest
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hierarchy_of_genres, accessed 01/10/2016):
-
allegorical composition,
history composition,
portrait,
scene of everyday life (scènes de genre Вr geБre paiБtiБg ),
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-
landscape,
animal,
still-life.
While the first two genres are not used today by competition photos, all
others have survived. But their hierarchy has changed. Landscape/cityscape genre
dominates in terms of numbers of winning photos. The second frequent genre
phВtВgraph Вf a persВБ s agaiБst eЛВtic БatiВБal laБdscape backgrВuБd Вr
engaged in some activity such as classical ballet. The third genre is an extreme closeup of an insect or a part of an animal with very rich texture and intricate detail. To
win in a competition, a photographer also has to stick to particular techniques. For
example, the only two allowed camera angles is strictly parallel to the ground or
looking up (see Figure 2).
Figure 2.
A selection of award winning photographs from Sony World Photography Awards (National
Awards), 2015. Source: http://www.worldphoto.org/national-award-2015.
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The Subjects of Casual Photos
Now we know something about the ideal subjects of professional photos, but
what the subjects of casual photos? If majority of Instagram images are such casual
photos, then analysis of most frequent tags assigned by people posting the photos
can tell us something about what they see as the content of these photos, or
emotions they think their photos represent. (And this is different from what
computer algorithms will see when they analyze photo content.) Among top tags on
the day we looked at such list (http://websta.me/hot, accessed 01/18/2016), most
describe eАВtiВБs Вr peВple subjects Кe do not consider tags such as #instagood
or #followme because they do not tell us anything about the intended subject or
emotion). The people subjects include #me (number 6), #fashion (11), #selfie (#13),
#girl (15), #friends (17), #smile (21), and #family (29). (Note that this list of top
tags aggregates tags frВА )БstagraА phВtВs КВrldКide, sВ Кe caБ t say aБythiБg
about the differences among different locations.)
Based on these tag frequencies, we can conclude that casual photography on
Instagram is dominated by the human world—in contrast to professional
photography on Flickr or in photo competitions dominated by nature/city view
geБre. This suggests that )БstagraА s casual phВtВgraphy iБdeed is cВБtiБuВus with
the hВАe АВde aБalВg aБd digital phВtВgraphy iБ previous decades (see examples
in Figure 1 in Part 1). However, more Instagram users are likely to be living in big
cities or engaged in frequent trips that include such cities thaБ hВАe АВde
photographers in earlier periods. (While urban population was 746 million in 1950,
it reached 3.42 billion in 2007 and 3.9 billion in 2014. In many smaller
industrialized countries the majority of people may be living just in one or a few
larger megacity areas.) And because most of these users live in major cities, more
Instagram photos are likely to show activities and people in urban places, rather
thaБ at hВАe.
AБВther iАpВrtaБt differeБce betКeeБ )БstagraА s versiВБ Вf home mode
photography and its earlier versions in consumer film cameras from the period of
1960-2000 is what is considered worth photographing and sharing. Already in the
early analysis of camera phone users in Japan published in 2003, the authors found
that caАera phВБe users elevate ВtherКise ВrdiБary Вbjects aБd eveБts tВ phВtВКВrthy ВccurreБces D. Okabe aБd M. )tВ, CaАera phВБes chaБgiБg the defiБitiВБ
of picture-КВrthy,
; the quВte is frВА Miller aБd EdКards, Give aБd Take.
This can be explained by people having their phones with cameras always with
them and at the same time not having to worry about how many shots are left in
their camera film cartridge.
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Thus, Кhat Аay appear tВ us as the ВrdiБary iБ the ВrigiБal hВАe АВde
photography was actually not ordinary at all, because only certain non-everyday
situations were considered to be worth recording on film to create prints or slides.
AБd iБ its ВКБ turБ, the БeК ВrdiБary Вf caАera phВБes iБ early
s Аay
appear to us today as pre-calculated, since now Instagram sets the new standard of
the ВrdiБary. Which АeaБs that future sВcial iАagiБg technologies will at some
point also change how we look at Instagram images from 2010-2015—and what
lВВks tВday as the fiБal ultiАate ВrdiБary Кill alsВ as highly selective.
In addition to looking at tags authors assign to their casual Instagram photos,
we can analyze the subjects of photos in a different way—by applying computer
vision algorithms that detect objects and types of scenes. We collaborated with
computer scientist Miriam Redi working on analysis of aesthetics and content of
photos on social networks, including Flickr and Instagram. She used the state-ofthe-art computer vision techniques to detect the presence of 1000 different subjects
and types of scenes in 100,000 Instagram photos from Bangkok, Berlin, Moscow, São
Paulo and Tokyo. (This dataset contains 20,000 photos per city randomly selected
from all geotagged images shared in central areas of these cities during December
5—December 11, 2013. The larger dataset was assembled for selfiecity.net). To
make comparisons between cities easier, Alise Tifentale from our lab organized
1000 subjects into 14 general categories. Figure 3a shows the proportions of
photos for each city in six of these categories: body and people; food and drinks;
clothing and accessories; nature; architecture and furniture. (For more details, see
Miriam Redi, Damon Crockett, Lev Manovich, Simon Osindero, What Makes Photo
Cultures Different?, ACM Multimedia 2016.)
city
Body and
people
19.0
food and
drinks
49.6
clothing and
accessories
12.7
São
Paulo
Moscow
25.8
11.9
22.0
Berlin
Bangkok
Tokyo
nature
architecture
furniture
18.0
15.5
28.9
21.8
16.5
12.9
14.8
8.4
15.2
25.0
21.1
19.5
15.3
12.4
9.9
28.4
39.7
24.2
18
17.7
40.3
12.2
10.8
12.6
Figure 3.
Results of computational analysis of subjects of 100,000 Instagram photos shared in
Bangkok, Berlin, Moscow, São Paulo, and Tokyo. For dataset details, see
http://selfiecity.net/#dataset.
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3a: Proportions of photos in six content categories: 1) food, 2) drinks and meals; 3) clothing
and accessories; 4) nature; 5) architecture, 6) furniture. The numbers are shown as
percentages, adding up in each column to %100.
3b: Proportions of photos in a larger set of 14 subject categories.
The differences between the cities are quite substantial. For example, in
Tokyo, %43.6 of all phВtВs are fВВd aБd driБks categВry, Кhile iБ MВscВК its ВБly
% . . ClВthiБg aБd accessВries is % . iБ BaБgkВk, but ВБly % . iБ BerliБ.
Architecture is % . iБ BerliБ but only %10.8 in Bangkok. This analysis that uses
state of the art computer vision techniques shows that the content of Instagram
photos changes significantly depending on the city.
But even within a large city, the popularity of different topics may also
change from area to area. In our lab, computer scientist Mehrdad Yazdani calculated
the frequencies of tags users assigned to 661,809 Instagram images they shared
along 13 miles of Broadway in Manhattan during 2/2014-7/2014. (For details of
this dataset, see http://on-broadway.nyc/. We first collected 10.5 million geotagged
photos shared in NYC, and then filtered this collection to only leave photos shared
along 100m wide corridor around the length of Broadway). Since Broadway crosses
all of Manhattan, using this slice allows us to see differences between interests of
Instagram users in a variety of the city areas (see Figure 4).
Chinatown
Soho
Washington
Heights
Inwood
Area: Leonard
street to Canal
street
nyc
Area: Canal street
to Houston street
Area: 155th street
to Fairview Ave
Area: Dyckmann
Street to 9th Ave
nyc
nyc
nyc
newyork
soho
washingtonheights
inwood
NYC
newyork
love
uptown
fashion
NYC
newyork
fashion
tbt
fashion
tbt
naillounge
love
manhattan
manhattan
handmade
manhattan
love
kraftwerk
ny
tribeca
tbt
uptown
cute
style
newyorkcity
NYC
whiskey
newyorkcity
art
fashion
love
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Figure 4.
Top 10 tags assigned by Instagram users to the images they shared in selected parts of
Manhattan crossed by Broadway. The top row shows the names of these parts; the second
row shows their south and north boundaries. After that, top 10 ten tags are shown, sorted
by frequency.
Just as in the other cities we analyzed, the tags that identify a city always
appear among top tags—here these are #nyc, #newyork, and #manhattan. Other
tags such as #lВve aБd #tbt are part Вf )БstagraА s glВbal laБguage Кhich is used
everywhere. But other tags only appear in particular parts of a city, and they capture
the specific places and interests of people who are residents or visitors to these
areas: #art in Soho, #kraftwerk in Washington Heights, #naillounge and #handmade
in Inwood.
Together, such results indicate that just as Instagram photos have different
types of (intentional or unintentional) aesthetics such as casual, professional, and
designed, their popular subjects are also not universal, but change from area to area.
(Note that the analysis of subject categories using both tag frequencies and
computer vision we used above did not yet consider these aesthetics. Of course, they
can also possibly change with location, and other important aesthetics may also
exist in different geographic areas—and such questions would be important to
investigate empirically).
Designed Photos
The third common type of Instagram photos (and a different example of competitive
photography on Instagram) we will now discuss in detail are the images we call
designed. These are photos that have been arranged and edited to have a distinct
stylized look. While retaining the basic properties of modern photography (scene
shown in perspective produced by light focused by the lenses), these images also
have characteristics of modern graphic design.
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Figure 5.
A montage of photos that were featured on first two pages of Collection section of vsco.co,
February 11, 2016, 12:30 pm.
Figure 5c and Figure 5d in Part 1 shows examples of such photos taken
from Instagram galleries of particular photographers who perfectly exemplify
designed photo aesthetics defined in the narrow sense discussed in this section.
Figure 5 (in this part) shows examples of designed photo aesthetics if we use this
term more broadly. To make this figure, we downloaded all photos that appeared on
the first two pages of Gallery section of vsco.co in a particular moment (the Gallery
pages are updated very frequently). VSCO is both a photo editing app for mobile
popular with more sophisticated (non-casual) Instagram authors, and also its own
social network for mobile photography. Since it is used very broadly, some of the
photos appearing in Gallery are close to casual or professional types which we
discussed above, but most others are not. If we compare photos in Figure 5 with
Figure 4 in Part 1 (random samples of Instagram images), we see that VSCO images
are much more controlled and composed. The subjects are carefully positioned in
the frame in such a way that unnecessary details are eliminated, and strong
greyscale and/or color contrast is established.
And if we compare VSCO images in Figure 5 with examples of professional
photo aesthetics in Figure 1 and Figure 2, another set of differences becomes
obvious. Professional aesthetic is about deep perspective, big open spaces, and
infinite details in every part of a photo. Designed aesthetics as seen in VSCO Gallery
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pages is about close-ups, shallow spaces, big areas in one color, and most or all of
photos with little or no details. First privileges open landscapes; the second
privileges details of objects and close-ups of faces and bodies. In the first,
compositions are perfectly symmetrical; in the second, they are asymmetrical. The
first is about perspective; the second is about flatness. In professional photographs,
we see complex lines and curves of outdoor landscapes; in designed photographs,
the dominant lines are perfectly strict—because these photos often show the
designed environment, as opposed to nature.
The Reality Effect in Photography
This quick comparison captures many key differences between professional
and designed photo aesthetics, but we can go further. To do this, we will try first to
systematically describe visual properties of professional photographs and graphic
design images as these two visual cultures developed in the 20th century.
The authors of many professional photographs use a number of techniques
to build the aesthetics of photo-realism—that is, they control or chose appropriate
natural lighting, exposure, and use editing to achieve certain effects that we identify
Кith realistic phВtВgraphy iБ the curreБt histВrical periВd. We say curreБt
because in our view photo-realism aesthetics change historically. In each period
they are affected by state Вf the art iБ phВtВ techБВlВgy as Кell as by the periВd s
cultural taste. Therefore, what we consider as ultimate photo-realism today may
look unrealistic and convention-driven in ten or twenty years from now.
Here are some of the characteristics of realistic photos in the early 21st
century:
1) High level of details distributed throughout the image space and also
across grey scale, with some level of details in darks, mid-tones and highlight areas;
2) easily readable 3D space—the ease created by composition, and choice of
the point of view;
3) clear differentiation between main subject and background for particular
genres such as portraits, models, and product shots.
Some of these choices (i.e., 1) are consistent with how we see the world
naturally. Others (i.e., 2) are aligned with specific properties of perception such as
perspective, but they intensify these properties (for example, including a number of
lines that converge towards a vanishing point to make perspective easier to
recognize quickly). Still others (i.e., 3) are only activated in particular genres but not
others.
Realist photos may also include additional effects that are purely artificial
constructions. The perfect example of this is bokeh— the aesthetic quality of the
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blur produced in the out-of-fВcus parts Вf aБ iАage prВduced by a leБs
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh, accessed 02/17/2016.) Bokeh is always
discussed when people review and compare new photo lenses for dSLR and
Mirrorless cameras, and it is very important to professional and serious amateur
photography aesthetics. (See examples in Figure 12.) According to one photo
teЛtbВВk, DiffereБces iБ leБs aberrations and aperture shape cause
some lens designs to blur the image in a way that is pleasing to the eye, while others
produce blurring that is unpleasant or distracting— gВВd aБd bad bВkeh,
respectively (arВld Davis, Practical Artistry: Light & Exposure for Digital
Photographers, O'Reilly Media, 2008, p. 62). Bokeh exemplifies how photo-realism is
a constructed style, as opposed to only being a faithful (or intensified)
representation of visible reality that follows same principles as human perception.
(For a relevant analysis of how fiction writers construct reality effect, see faАВus
text by Roland Barthes The Reality Effect, 1968.)
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Part 3. Instagramism
May 2016
(I am grateful to Danabelle Ignes for pointing out to me the global influence of
Kinfolk and its effect on Instagram aesthetics. Ashleigh Cassemere-Stanfield noted
the similarities between many Instagram photos and certain categories in stock
photography on 500px such as still-life and food. Zizi Li, the 2016 summer intern
with our lab, have created a list of Instagram users with strong visual aesthetics
from Asian countries, and I have used this list for examples.)
What is Style?
In Part 3 we started discussion of designed photos on Instagram, but there is lots
АВre tВ cВver. Let s cВБtiБue.
How do we characterize a style in general? And, in particular, the
contemporary aesthetic that was born in early 2010s and can be seen today in
numerous Instagram photo that we referred to as designed photos? And are there
any differences today between commercial and personal photography even when
they feature the same subjects and the same attitude? Can a style be defined through
a list of features, or is it a larger gestalt that cannot be simply detected by finding
images that have some of these features?
Look at the beautiful short films (2012-) frВА the slВК lifestyle cult
magazine Kinfolk (https://vimeo.com/kinfolk/videos) (Figure 1). They perfectly
exemplify a visual cultural form that can be also seen in numerous Instagram photos
created by young visually sophisticated users around the world. It also appears in
some—but far from all—contemporary lifestyle and fashion commercial
photography and cinematography.
We can call this form photography+design.
Or, in the case of short films or video shots, cinematography+design.
Or we can just make it a single (but pretty long and not really practical) term:
design + cinemato/photo/graphy.
My use Вf + Вr / as ВppВsed tВ aБd is deliberate. The aesthetics Вf
modern 2D design and modern photography / cinematography are blended here so
much that we cannot just talk about media meeting together. Instead, we have a
blend.
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Figure 1.
Frames from selected Kinfolk films. Source: https://vimeo.com/kinfolk/videos.
What is more important in this style—design or the camera? Arranging the
objects, the bodies, the spaces and orchestrating colors, textures, hand movements,
etc.? Or choosing the right lens, the right point of view, and applying the right color
filter to the image or the video? The flatness of surfaces (design) or threedimensionality of spatial details (camera)? It is impossible to say. This is why I think
we are dealing here with a distinct form. It was first developed in advertising
photography in 1930s. It was adopted by professional graphic designers in 1990s,
thanks to Photoshop. It was next extended to moving images, thanks to After Effects
software. And after 2000, it was adopted by millions of your creative teenagers and
young culture professionals, thanks to Instagram.
This form is a gestalt made up from two types of skills and media traditions,
rather a mechanical joining of the elements. (In my book Software Takes Command, I
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offer detailed analysis of the earlier version of this form as manifested in motion
graphics in the late 1990s. The terА used iБ that bВВk is hybrid. )
There are many other instances of this form today, if we are only concerned
with its formal dimensions—i.e., saturated or faded color, use of empty areas and
textured areas, etc. In fact, lots of graphic designs and websites use the same
aesthetics. But in the case of Kinfolk and many Instagram images (illustrated by a
selection from 24 users from 8 countries in the montage in Figure 3), we are
dealing with something else. The media form that combines lens image capture and
design techniques goes along with particular content. And together, these elements
create particular seБsibility, attitude, Вr tВБality. Perhaps the КВrd Кhich
captures this best is Russian c
я
—but unfortunately it does not have a
precise English equivalent. (Another Russian word
commonly used today to
refer to the image with cultural or historical associations you create through
fashion, hairstyle, makeup, and accessories is also useful.)
I am going to refer to this combination of a media form and particular
content as Instagramism. While ) cВuld have cВБtiБue tВ use the terА desigБed
phВtВs, ) КaБted aБВther terА that КВuld situate such phВtВs БВt КithiБ histВries
of photography, design and visual culture—as we did already in Part 2— but rather
within the histories of social, economic and cultural ideologies and corresponding
Кays tВ cВБduct ВБe s life. SВАethiБg Кith –ism.)
But why Instagramism ? Instagram was started in 2010, and Kinfolk in
2011. Instagram was different from then existing photo-sharing services because it
came with filters and other simple image editing tools available in its mobile app.
And this democratized making good-looking images. Gradually, Instagram was also
adopted by millions of young, sophisticated people around the world to display their
photography, narrate their ideas and experiences, and connect to each other.
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Figure 2. Selection of Instagram photos shared by @tienphuc_ (Vietnam).
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Figure 3. Sample images from 24 Instagram users from 8 countries: Vietnam, China, Japan,
Korea, Hong Kong, Russia, Ukraine, Belarus. 6 images from each user is shown. Some of the
images are shown at larger size throughout this book part. Full size version of the whole
montage is available at https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturevis/27064111290/sizes/l.
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But how did young global Instagram users learn to use these tools (along
with staging or choice of a scene, of course) to express particular attitudes? In 2010,
Wallpaper АagaziБe the КВrld s АВst iАpВrtaБt desigБ aБd lifestyle publicatiВБ,
according to a Wikipedia article) was already 14 years old, and the first desigБ
hВtel by Philip Stark and Ian Schrager was 22
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royalton_Hotel) . Both minimalist and mid-20th
century modernist aesthetics were already widespread globally. However, Kinfolk
developed and popularized a new aesthetics. It had a real effect on growing
Instagram, and Instagram users popularized it further. This has been acknowledged
by more than one commentator:
The KiБfВlk lВВk has becВАe sВ iБflueБtial that every Вver-styled, washedout Instagram photo of a succulent or a cup of coffee is now deemed to be
part of its visual bandwagon. (Dan Howarth, interview with Kinfolk cofounder Nathan Williams, http://www.dezeen.com/2016/03/02/kinfolkmagazine-interview-founder-editor-in-chief-nathan-williams-instagram/,
March 2, 2016.)
Kinfolk also came into existence just as we started using platforms like
Instagram aspirationally, translating the aesthetics of the glossy print page
onto the even glossier screen and making them our own in the process.
Kyle Chaka, The Last Lifestyle MagaziБe: How Kinfolk created the dominant
aesthetics Вf the decade Кith perfect lattes aБd avВcadВ tВast,
http://www.racked.com/2016/3/14/11173148/kinfolk-lifestyle-magazines,
March 14, 2016.)
Of course, many other magazines and web platforms now also use Kinfolk /
Instagramism aesthetics aБd attitude. SearchiБg )БstagraА, ) fВuБd arВuБd a
million photos tagged with various Kinfolk related tags: #kinfolk, #kinfolklife,
#kinfolkmagazine, #kinfolkrussia, and so on. Among the cities worldwide (choosing
only from the ones I visited since 2010), the ones which have this aesthetics the
most in my view are Seoul, Riga, Tallinn, Berlin, and downtown Los Angeles—
although practically every АegapВlis БВК has its desigБ / hip places aБd districts.
In choosing these particular cities, I am not simply thinking of the abundance of
cafes and restaurants with interesting design, ambient bars in unusual locations,
small design and lifestyle shops, and other places where we are expected not only to
hang out and browse, but also to spend some money. More important are the
atmosphere and the feeling (c
я
) you have while walking around these
cities—the result of their architecture, urban structure, rhythms, the numbers of
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young appropriately dressed and behaving young people around you, the looks on
their faces, the Кays their bВdies АВve, aБd the Кay they Вccupy space. That s Кhy
New York, Brooklyn, Paris, and London can never qualify to be top Instagramism
cities even though they have plenty of the right places—they are simply too
crowded and too fast.) Because of these other factors, I do not think that we can
reduce Instagramism to a simple list of dishes, drinks, products, filters, and effects
such as latte, avВcadВ tВast, Вr Кashed Вut Кhich is Кhat Кriters ) quВted
above seem to suggest.)
So let us now look more closely at Kinfolk films and Instagram photos
expressing Instagramism aesthetics and sensibility best. (They seem to come from
Russia, Ukraine, Vietnam, and Japan). What is really going there?
The Instagram examples shown in Figure 3 cover a wide range—from
geometric and high-contrast spreads of objects and foods to blurry or low-contrast
images of nature. The first kind is very close to Kinfolk photography. It is about
(RussiaБ fВr thiБgs ). The second is more about c
я
. In the first,
objects stand out from background which is often pure white. In the second, even if
objects are present, they do not attract attention.
However, we have to remember that in an Instagram gallery interface, any
image always appears next to others. Look at the selection of six images shared by
user @by_jinyong (Figure 4c). It shows that the meaning of a particular photo in
Instagram changes depending what photos are around it in the user s gallery. The
user highlights the coffee cup (top left), mobile phone (bottom center), and a basket
of fruit (bottom right) by blurring the background. So in another context these three
phВtВs КВuld be abВut thiБgs. But iБ this particular cВБteЛt, they became about
the mood established by the other three photos of the flowers in the field.
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Figure 4. Selection of photos shared by four Instagram users (also shown in Figure 3).
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Top to bottom:
@katrinaconstrant (Russia, Yakutia),
@vita_century (Russia),
@by_jinyong (Korea),
@sora_ame (Japan).
There are other differences between Kinfolk and Instagram aesthetics
created by young sophisticated users from many countries—but I am more
interested in their common features. Having defined Instagramism above as a
cВАbiБatiВБ Вf a Аedia fВrА aБd particular cВБteБt, let s БВК eЛpaБd Вur aБalysis
by briБgiБg iБ Вther terАs, such as Бarrative.
Instagramism does not care abВut telling a story, aБd it dВes БВt feature
prВper subjects iБ the seБse Вf subject Вf a phВtВ . CertaiБly, KiБfВlk aБd
Instagram video and photos show very concrete things: textured walls, human
hands, flowers, bodies moving along designed trajectories, people looking into the
landscape from a corner of a frame, etc. But at the same time they blur, so to speak,
the semantic function of a representation. They are not about showing, or signifying,
or registering, or narrating, or convincing. And they are not about conveying a
feeling either, this КВuld be tВВ siАplistic. Really, Кhat is the feeliБg eЛpressed
by a close-up view of textured objects arranged on a table, or a hand holding a
cappuccino cup in morning light? CaБ yВu БaАe these feeliБgs ? AБd fiБally, they
are not even about style. Well-dressed people and design hotel rooms do have
styles. NВt phВtВgraphs Вr videВs.
Refusing to tell stories : Art Cinema and k-pop Music Videos
Having rejected all easy terms, what do we have left? I believe that the 20th
century film theory and criticism were struggling with the same problem, and they
did not solve it. After you take out narrative, editing, acting, and cinematography,
hВК dВ yВu call the filА Аeat that is left? (Of course only some directors had this
Аeat, АВst Вthers Кere happy tВ use stereВtypes . PeВple КritiБg abВut ciБeАa
sometimes used the term mise-en-scène. For me, this terms names a difficult
intellectual problem rather than a solution. Here is definition of mise-en-scène from
1960 provided by one of the founders of Cahiers du Cinéma (quoted in
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mise-en-sc%C3%A8ne): What Аatters iБ a filА is
the desire for order, composition, harmony, the placing of actors and objects, the
movements within the frame, the capturing of a moment or look... Mise en scene is
nothing other than the technique invented by each director to express the idea and
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establish the specific quality Вf his КВrk. This start is exciting but then the writer
gives up, reducing mise-en-scène tВ a tВВl used by a directВr tВ eЛpress the idea.
Really?
Although the term mise-en-scène does not provide us with a clear definition
of Instagramism, it does point us in the right direction—the 20th century cinema.
Certainly, some of the 20th century film cinematographers, art directors, and
directors pioneered Instagramism in some of their films—to name only
cinematographers, think of Sven Nykvist ciБeАatВgrapher Вf )БgАar BergАaБ s
Persona aБd GeВrgy Rerberg ciБeАatВgrapher Вf TarkВvsky s Mirror).
(Instagramism here refers not to any particular narrow aesthetics, but rather
construction of scenes and images that are atmospheric, visually perfect, emotional
without being aggressive, and subtle as opposed to dramatic.)
(Note: In addition to particular cinematographers and photographers, we can
also find great examples of Instagramism sensibility in the history of painting: oil
paintings by Balthus, Pierre Bonnard, Maurice Utrillo, Robert Falk, and monochrome
works on paper by artists from China, starting in the Song dynasty, and
subsequently also in Korea, Vietnam, and Japan.)
However, even the most atmospheric, visually perfect, and subtle feature
films and 20th century commercial photographs with the same qualities were
ultimately doing something else. Even the most artistic commercial photography
had to help sell something. And even in the most poetic and individualistic art
cinema, purely poetic non-narrative shots and sequences were embedded into
larger stВries. These stВries had peВple i.e., actВrs talkiБg tВ each Вther,
moving in vehicles, walking in and out of modern buildings, and performing other
actiВБs. They had establishiБg shВts. They eАplВyed cВstuАe desigБers, aБd
Аakeup artists, aБd used scripts. All these hВrrible terАs describe the fВrces
that never allowed feature films to become %100 poetic.
I can think of only a few exceptions—the feature filАs that gВt aКay,
refusiБg tВ tell stВries. Or, at least, iБ these filАs the prВse Вf the Бarrative did БВt
take away poetry from the visual. Not surprisingly, most of these were made in the
USSR, where in some cases some directors were able to use very professional state
film system and big budgets to make very personal films. These are Sergei Parajanov
(Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors, 1965; The Color of Pomegranates, 1969), Marlen
Khutsiev (I am 20, 1965; July’s Rain, 9 ), Mikhail Kalatozov (I am Cuba, 1964), and
Elyor Ishmukhamedov (Tenderness, 1966; Lovers, 1969).
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Figure 5.
5a: stills from Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors (Parajanov, 1965) and The Color of
Pomegranates (Parajanov, 1969).
5b: stills from Red Desert (Antonioni, 1964).
In contrast, their counterparts in Western countries had to rely on 8mm or
16mm format, and had no budget, studios or real actors—and as a result, Western
experimental cinema was often abstract. Indeed, would you be scraping lines on film
stock (Len Lye), filming rotating disks (Man Ray) or using other tricks of avantgarde cinema, if you had access to the same actors, cinematographers, and
production crew as Tarkovsky?
In my personal view, the only Western feature films where visual poetry is as
important as narrative Кere AlaiБ ResБais s Hiroshima mon amour (1959) and Last
Year in Marienbad
, AБtВБiВБi s Red Desert
, the first part Вf BergАaБ s
Persona (1966) aБd Jacque Tati s Playtime (1967). (The stills from two films by
Parajanov and Antonioni’s Red Desert are shown in Figures 5a and 5b).
I recently watched again through the most well-kБВКБ GВdard s filАs Вf the
1960s, and they all now look surprisingly narrative-driven. And despite all their
reАarkable visual pВetry, Chris Marker s La Jetée (1962) and AgБès Varda s Cléo
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from 5 to 7 (1961) also are real narratives—or maybe they just did not pay the same
attention to design of every frame as other directors mentioned above.
Of course, if we also consider the 20th and 21th century short films and
documentaries, the list will be quite long. And if we start counting motion graphics
and music videos produced since the late 1990s, it will become enormous. For
example, hundreds of k-pop music videos produced in the last few years have
excellent visual design. And here are some recent (2014-2016) Russian and
Ukrainian music videos with equally strong visual aesthetics and contemporary
cВВl seБsibility aБd attitude typical fВr the )БstagraА geБeratiВБ:
Quest Pistols Show—Са а
ч :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6a_mLhifqc
Вых
by MONATIK:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wR-JxJ9II78
Т ш by
аС
а MONAT)K:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dr_gCwjaoCI
П я
by
С
:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeRCDH_zUnU
И я
by
С
:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Go8ub9a1k
М by а а
а:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_7xH2D6Mxs
Stills from three of these videos are show in Figure 6.
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Figure 6.
Stills from four music videos from Russia and Ukraine.
First row: И я
С
,Т ш (
аС
Second row: Т ш (
аС
а aБd MONAT)K , И я
а aБd MONAT)K .
(
С
.
FВr yet aБВther eЛaАple Вf a cВБvergeБce betКeeБ pВp Аusic aБd desigБ,
consider the following. A number of K-pop albums received top awards from the
most prestigious global design competitions (Red Dot Design and iF Design Awards)
in design and packaging categories. The groups include Girls' Generation, Super
Junior, SHINee, f(x), and EXO. (See Samantha Marie Lifson, "Top K-Pop Groups Win
International Product Design Awards For Album Covers," January 28, 2016,
http://www.kpopstarz.com/articles/267544/20160128/if-product-design-awardsalbum-covers.htm.)
Figure 7 demonstrates design sophistication in recent K-pop videos. The
view numbers refer to YouTube videos published at official YouTube accounts by
the groups or their management companies:
Dumb Dumb (Red Velvet). Published on Sep 8, 2015. 38,699,981 views (as of May
31, 2016). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGdbaEDVWp0
The 7th Sense (NCT U).Published on on Apr 8, 2016. 11,437,989 views (as of May 31,
2016). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UGMDJ9kZCA
Gotta be You (2NE1, 2014). Published on May 20, 2014. 29,920,040 views (as of May
31, 2016). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdKTgwffmdo
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Figure 7.
Stills from three K-pop music videos.
Top row: Dumb Dumb (Red Velvet, 2015).
Bottom row: The 7th Sense (NCT U, 2016), Gotta be You (2NE1, 2014).
Instagramism and Contemporary Cultural identities
Having explored relevant examples from the 20th century cinema and
cВБteАpВrary Аusic videВs, let s cВАe back tВ )БstagraА Вf tВday. Best images
created by young Instagrammers practice sВАethiБg Кe caБ alsВ call pВetic desigБ
(referencing here pВetic realisА АВveАeБt iБ ciБeАa, АiБus the Бarratives .
What are sВАe Вf the cВuБtries that prВduce the best pВetic desigБ ? )t is hard to
answer this without a large scale computational analysis of many millions of
Instagram images, but here is one hint. Kinfolk has (or had) international editions in
Russia, China, Korea, and Japan. Indeed, we keep finding great examples of
Instagramism aesthetics among users from these countries. Not surprisingly, some
of their photos repeatedly feature Kinfolk magazine (see Figure 8).
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Figure 8.
Examples of Instagram photos different users that feature Kinfolk magazine.
Let s lВВk at the saАple Вf phВtos from 24 Instagram users in Figure 3. Although
some of these photos may look like commercial lifestyle or fashion photography,
they do not focus on objects so directly. They do not "sell" them to us. They also do
not feature perfect model bodies. The atmosphere and mood are more important,
aБd the prВps Вbjects, bodies) are less important.
We can sometimes find lifestyle or fashion photography which is very, very
close to poetic design on Instagram. The boundary is almost invisible, but I do
believe that it exists. And the subtlety of this boundary itself is an important sign of
how culture works today. )БdepeБdeБt aБd cВААercial Вr art aБd desigБ are
not separated in clear ways like they were during the 20th century. But this does not
mean that they have completely merged.
Figures 9a, 9b and 9c shows selections of Instagram-like images available
for sale from stock imagery portion of popular 500px photo sharing site
(https//marketplace.500px.com). I have spent some searching through the website
and browsing the results to select the photos that are as close as possible
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aesthetically to Instagramism sensibilities. These particular photos certainly could
have come from Instagram users who are not trying to monetize their accounts.
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Figure 9.
SelectiВБ Вf )БstagraА-like iАages frВА
pЛ.
To give you a sense of more typical stock imagery from 500px, I have entered
BrВКse latest cВБteБt Кith БВ peВple ВptiВБ selected ВБ
marketplace.500px.com and saved the screenshot (Figure 10).
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Figure 10.
ScreeБshВt Вf iАages displayed by Аarketplace.
pЛ.cВА after selectiБg BrВКse latest
cВБteБt Кith БВ peВple ВptiВБ selected at : pА, May ,
.
https://marketplace.500px.com/.
As Кe caБ see, the distiБctiВБs betКeeБ )БdepeБdeБt aБd cВААercial still
exist—although a significant proportion of photos can function equally well in either
categВry. AБd this is БВ lВБger the questiВБ Вf cВААВdificatiВБ. The
iБdepeБdeБt aБd cВААercial cВБtiБuВusly iБflueБce each Вther aБd bВrrВК
from each other.
This discussion and examples suggest the following. If want to understand
the specificity of the contemporary cultures, we cannot use the 19th and 20th
century concepts such as mainstream and experimental, late capitalism, fetishism,
narcissism, commodity, appropriation, etc. They are too broad to capture the small
differences between different cultural situations and sensibilities that matter today.
To put this differently: when cultural trends emerge and become popularized faster
thaБ befВre, peВple s aБsКer is tВ develВp sАall variatiВБs, rather thaБ trying to
Аake sВАethiБg really very differeБt АВderБist Аake it БeК.
Cultural identity today is established via small variations and
differences—and also hybridization among already established positions. (For
example, if the first part of the 20th century Кas abВut radically cВБflictiБg isАs —
cubism, suprematism, surrealism, etc.—then the 21st century so far is about
variations on single larger trends such as minimalism in design.)
Note, however, that there are limits to how many distinct cultural identities
are pВssible. )f yВu describe yВurself as traveler, blВgger, phВtВgrapher as АaБy
Instagrammers do), you immediately position yourself within a really big
)БstagraА class. )БstagraА cВБtaiБs Вver
АilliВБ phВtВs Кith tag #travel,
million photos tagged #photographer, and 18 million photos tagged #blogger
(numbers as of May 31, 2016). You can, of course get, more specific, but again
numbers are massive. Here are examples of such tags from photos of a few users I
showed in Figure 3:
#geometry—2,061,435 posts
#minimalmood—1,022,493 posts
#flatlay—991,444 posts
#shadowhunters—972,219 posts
Wikipedia article List_of_subcultures lists 126 different subcultures (many of these
are specific to Japan). Among those listed, we find bōsōzoku, a JapaБese yВuth
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subculture assВciated Кith custВАized АВtВrcycles ; demoscene, a cВАputer
art subculture that specializes in producing deАВs ; and furry fandom,
a subculture interested in fictional anthropomorphic animal characters with
human personalities and characteristics. This sВuБds like a lВt Вf chВices, but it is
not enough to create a unique cultural identity. If a young person identifies with any
subculture, this eЛcludes her/hiА frВА the АaiБstreaА if it eЛists iБ giveБ place
or a few common identities. But at the same time, the person now belongs to
another group, i.e. the chosen subculture. So instead of creating a unique identity,
the person gets locked in a group identity.
Does music offer more opportunities for self-definition? A well-known
project Every Noise Аaps Аusic geБres based ВБ data tracked aБd aБalyzed fВr
1460 genres by Spotify (http://everynoise.com/engenremap.html). They range
frВА brВad geБres such as electrВБica aБd hip hВp tВ БatiВБal variatiВБs such as
Slovak pop and Australian hip hop. This suggests that music does offer more
categories. It is important to also note that creation of new genres by combining
already existing one is a key mechanism of modern music evolution, and such
mechanism keeps generating new varieties.
However, in my view, photography today—and Instagram platform in
particular—gives young people at least as much power in crafting unique identities
as music. And in comparison to writing music, Instagram is much easier to use. To
establish a visual style, chose particular subjects and compositions for your photos
and use Instagram or VSCO app to apply the consistent edits, filters, and presets to
all of them. Between different subjects, compositions, color palettes, contrast levels,
and other adjustments and filters, the number of distinct styles that can be created
is very large—as deАВБstrated by selectiВБs Вf users photos shown in Figure 3. (Of
course, creating really unique and really amazing photos still takes lots of time and
practice. VSCO possibilities in creating different looks are demonstrated in the post
50 VSCO Cam Filter Settings for Better Instagram Photos and on many Pinterest
boards such as VSCO Cam Filters. ) (http://www.hongkiat.com/blog/vsco-camfilter-settings/; https://www.pinterest.com/fadhilla18/vsco-cam-filters/.)
GiveБ this aБalysis, ) КaБt tВ Аake Аy earlier stateАeБt Cultural identity
today is established via small variations and subtle differences more precise.
Subcultures, fВВd prefereБces, aБd fashiВБ styles give peВple basic tВВls tВ
establish and perform their cultural identities. However, digital cameras and editing
and publishing tools as exemplified by Instagram provide the crucial mechanism to
further refiБe aБd iБdividualize these basic ideБtities.
How individual can they get? In a network culture of Instagram where people
can see each other images and use the same editing tools it may be very to achieve
complete uniqueness—but at least you can develop a visual presence which is
sufficieБtly uБique —sВАethiБg Кhich dВes БВt fit iБtВ cВААВБ types aБd caБ t be
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captured by a single or a few hashtags. In fact, many of the users I selected for
Figure 3 do not use any tags for their photos, because they probably do not want to
be labeled aБd cВАpared tВ Вthers.
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Figure 11.
Selection of photos from five Instagram users (also shown in Figure 3).
Top to bottom:
@k_a_r_e_n_g (Hong Kong),
@koyoox (Japan),
@bnphm0609 (Vietnam),
@nekip.photo (Russia, Buryatia, Ulan Ude),
@viktoria_photo_ (Russia, Ryazan).
To continue with our investigation of Instagramism, let s lВВk at the selfdescription of Kinfolk magazine to see if it can help us to better understand the
aesthetics of their films, as well as seemingly similar aesthetics on Instagram:
Kinfolk is a slow lifestyle magazine published by Ouur that explores ways for
readers to simplify their lives, cultivate community and spend more time
with their friends and family. Founded in 2011, Kinfolk is now the leading
independent lifestyle magazine for young creative professionals and also
produces international editions in Japan, China, Korea and Russia. Published
quarterly, Kinfolk maintains a vibrant contributor base from Copenhagen to
Cape Town. Ouur is a lifestyle publisher and agency creating print and digital
Аedia fВr a yВuБg creative audieБce. http://www.kinfolk.com/about-us/,
accessed May 27, 2016.)
Very iБterestiБg! But Кhy dВes siАplifyiБg ВБe s life aБd speБdiБg АВre tiАe
with friends and family end up looking so intensely beautiful in Kinfolk films? Why
the result is something which blends aesthetics of minimalism from Asian pen and
ink paintings, Scandinavian aesthetics of clarity, simplicity but also rich natural
textures, and colors produced by VSCO filters? The possible answer suggested by
Kinfolk self-description is that its films and photography are doing two things
simultaneВusly: creatiБg the idealistic, alАВst utВpiaБ picture Вf perfect slВК
lifestyle Кhile at the saАe tiАe feediБg the Бeed Вf their readers— yВuБg creative
prВfessiВБals —tВ be visually stiАulated aБd iБspired by gВВd desigБ. SВ КheБ
you are looking at Kinfolk, you are benefiting both personally and professionally.
But what about all the Instagrammers globally who seem to favor very
similar aesthetics, even if they are not young creative professionals and do not care
abВut slВК lifestyle ? SВАe Вf the best pВetic desigБ )БstagraА accВuБts ) fВuБd
in Russia are from teenagers.) Maybe things are not as logical and straight-forward
as Kinfolk self-description suggests?
Lifestyle is not about always doing things. (Never mind that American
commercials for lifestyle products and services associate lifestyle with actions: you
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driving your European sports car, you having romantic dinner with your beautiful
wife, you being served by hotel staff in a luxury hotel in an exotic location, etc.) To
use the term froА БarratВlВgy, lifestyle is ВfteБ abВut abВut descriptiВБ thaБ
БarratiВБ althВugh descriptiВБ alsВ dВes БВt quite capture Кhat ) aА tryiБg tВ
say.) It is about sitting in a café and looking down at the table which has your coffee
cup and a notebook. It is about gazing into the landscape from the corner of a photo
fraАe. )t is abВut cВБteАplatiВБ, АeditatiВБ, beiБg lazy, aБd sВ ВБ—the luxury
of doing absolutely nothing while being in a perfect place, perfectly dressed, with a
perfect drink—solo or with a perfect friend. It is the unique feeling you get when
you put on a special piece of clothing or when you look at a very particular
landscape or cityscape.
Both Kinfolk and Instagrammers represent a lifestyle—but only if we
understand it in this non-commercial, not product- or action-oriented Кay. KiБfВlk s
original motivation behind subjects and aesthetics of its photography and films was
the cultivation of gatherings with friends and family, while young Instagrammers
adopted and extended this style to capture all kinds of situations—but in both cases,
it is about experience. Therefore, their films and photos do not focus on products or
actions. For example, we do not see people talking on their mobile phones, or taking
photos with mobiles or cameras. Instead, we may see these objects lying on a coffee
table or a bed. Being rather than doing—if there is any message in poetic design, this
is it.
Washed Вut filters ВfteБ used fВr these phВtВs aБd filАs are БВt abВut
photo history nostalgia. They are about reducing greyscale and color contrasts—
which are metaphors for emotional contrast and cognitive dissonance. (Thus, the
most un-Kinfolk location in the world that I have experienced is Midtown
Manhattan.)
The БeВlВgisА )БstagraА suggests speed, quick decision, and fast action. If
this Кas the platfВrА s ВrigiБal iБteБsiВБ, theБ the visually sВphisticated glВbal
youth and many members of global creative class use it today in a completely
opposite way. Instagramism needs slowness, craftsmanship, and attention to tiniest
details. (One of the young Russian Instagrammers I follow at some point started
experimenting with adding one pixel wide white border to her Instagram photos).
These qualities are also required to create great design, regardless of whether you
are working with physical materials, a space, a printed page, or an app.
And this is why today Instagramism is the style of global design class
(although it is also used by millions of young people who are not professional
photographers, designers, editors, etc.). This global class is defined not by the
ecВБВАic relatiВБs tВ the АeaБs Вf prВductiВБ Вr iБcВАe but by AdВbe Creative
Suite software it uses. It is also defined by its visual voice—which is about subtle
differences, the power of empty space, visual intelligence, and visual pleasure.
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Everything you find in the very best Instagram, web and print images, space design,
food, and street style fashion today.
Figure 12.
Examples of bokeh effect. Sources: Flickr Creative Commons and Wikimedia.
Meta-principle of Modern Design
Modern design image follows different principles. They were first defined in
abstract painting produced in Europe during 1909-1914. In the early 1920s El
Lissitzky and others applied them to all areas of design, including posters,
magazines, and books, textiles, interiors, architecture, furniture and industrial and
consumer products. Here are some of these core principles (Manovich, Avant-garde
as Software, 1999; expanded for this article): High contrast (in use of tones, colors,
font sizes, size and types of shapes, etc.); limited color palettes; simple geometric
shapes; thick lines as design elements; large empty white spaces; asymmetrical
composition; clear differentiation between sizes of fonts; strong visual rhythm
created via repeating elements, parallel lines, etc.; use of infinite projection that
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creates 2 ½ space; or parallel projection that results in parallel rather than
converging lines (and repeating parallel lines create visual rhythm.) Figure 13
shows the classical examples from one of the first designers to start using these
principles (El Lissitzky, 1923) and one of the leaders of the second generation of
designers (Josef Muller-Brockmann, 1966).
Figure 13.
Examples of modernist graphic design.
Left: El Lissitzky, desigБ fВr MayakВvsky s pВeА FВr the VВice,
Right: Josef Muller-Brockmann, 1966. Poster.
. BВВk page.
Generalizing these principles, we can come with a single meta-principle of
modern design—clear hierarchy of information and attention. The particular choices
such as compositions consisting from only a few clearly differentiated elements, use
of only a few significantly difference type sizes, and limited palettes that use a few
very different hues are logical consequences of this one meta-principle.
To express this differently, we can say the following: that meta-aesthetics of
modern design is the use of extremely limited choices on all visual dimensions that a
designer controlled, including colors, tones, line orientations, shape types, patterns,
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and fonts (if text is used) as well as objects chosen as subjects, figure poses, and
lighting.
Throughout the 20th and early 21st century, original modern design aesthetics
evolved resulting in a number of styles that emphasize some principles over others,
or do not use some principles at all. During the 1990s and early 2000s, an
influential, more minimal version of modern design emerged and it found its way
into everything—hotel, café, restaurants, and other architecture and space design,
priБt publicatiВБs, Кeb sites, JВБathaБ )ve s desigБ Вf Apple prВducts startiБg Кith
all white iBook G3 (2001). Eventually it was also adopted by the new generation of
OS (operating systems). IOS 7 introduced by Apple in 2013 featured more minimal
aБd АВБВchrВАe sВphisticated style frВА )ve s teaА; MicrВsВft MetrВ desigБ
laБguage iБtrВduced iБ WiБdВКs PhВБe iБ
featured АВre cВlВrful pВpular
style. This global minimalist aesthetics became identified by marketers, consumers,
and creators worldwide as cool, hip, sophisticated, and contemporary—and therefore
especially important for self-identification of young urbanites who were growing up
in 2000s or 2010s.
While retaining simplicity and clear presentation of information in modern
design, the new minimalism differentiates itself by subtlety, i.e. small differences on
some of the visual dimensions—in contrast to modernist design that always used
big differences. The feel is often quiet and ambient rather than aggressive and loud.
The color palettes may use many shades of one or two hues, rather than opposing
hues that creates strongest contrast. (In our analysis of all covers of Time magazine
from 1923 to 2009, we saw the shift away from highly saturated colors in the 1980s
covers to an aesthetics influenced by minimalism in the late 1990s, with big white
empty areas and smaller color accents. See Jeremy Douglass and Lev Manovich,
Mapping Time, 2009).
While the use of white, shades of grey, transparency, and translucency were
identifiers of early global minimalism in the late 1990s, a new version developed
about ten years later, with focus on rich natural textures, use of different materials
aБd rich cВlВr acceБts that sigБify autheБticity aБd a selective use of tradition. In
the early 2010s, a different version that can be called digital minimalism also
developed in response to small phone screens, tablets and use of apps—bolder lines,
higher contrast, big fonts, and use of back to back photos arranged in layouts filling
the screen.
Different countries have their own additional versions of contemporary
design which often include include references to lВcal traditiВБal aesthetics. KВrea s
design and fashion colors are white, grey, black, and beige. Along with white and
grey, Thailand s design uses a palette of bright saturated colors—orange, green,
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blue, pink and violet. TВkyВ s popular young fashions mix bright saturated colors
and pastels.
Having a style means adapting particular choices, coordinating them to
achieve a distiБct lВВk, aБd beiБg cВБsisteБt. This is true fВr aБy kiБd Вf life desigБ,
be it curating of space, choice of what to wear, what to eat, and where to spend time
with friends. This also applies to Instagram photos we call designed—they represent
particular lifestyles, or subjects (such as nature). But they do this not in an arbitrary
way—instead they also use a visual language of contemporary design. Some of the
photos choose the global minimalist version; others reference the local versions of
the contemporary aesthetics; others mix different versions in their photos. In
contrast to un-curated messiness of the visible world captured by all-seeing
perspectival view of the lens as in casual photos, and predictability and rigid
conventions as in professional photos, designed photos aim for originality in terms
of how subjects are shown, at the same time for very tight control of an image—
ideally consisting from smaller number of clear differentiated elements organized to
achieve strong visual contrast and rhythm.
However, since there are still photos of three-dimensional reality made using
the camera lens that inevitably creates perspective and many details, they have to
find a balance this default photo-realism and the language of design. While purely
abstract design allows the author complete control of all visual elements and
variables, photographer of a three dimensional scene has less control (unless the
scene is created in a studio), since the world outside already has its shapes, colors,
forms, and textures. Some designed images may tip the balance more towards
realism and less control while others may retain only minimal references to visible
reality privileging abstract patterns, colors, shapes, and textures organized to
achieve desired aesthetic effects (see examples in Figure 5c and 5d in Part 1).
This aesthetics of the in-between is not unique to Instagram. It also can be
found in modern and contemporary advertising, editorial, and fashion color
photography. Figure 14 shows example of such photography from 1950s by famous
photographers Irving Penn and Richard Avedon who both created many images for
Vogue and other magazines. And earlier, modernist black and white photography of
1920s-1930s also operated in the space between realism and abstraction,
employing devices directly borrowed from geometric abstract art of 1910s and
1920s design (Figure 15).
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Figure 14.
Examples of the mid-20th century fashion photography.
Right: Richard Avedon, photograph of Dovima and Sunny Harnet, 1955.
Left: Irving Penn, photograph for the cover of Vogue, 1964.
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Figure 15.
Modernist photography from 1920s-1930s. After the introduction of the first small 35mm
film Leica camera in 1925, photographers were able to get very close to their subjects and
use unsual points of view.
Right: Iwao Yamawaki, a photograph of Bauhaus building, 1930-1932.
Left: Alexander Rodchenko, PiВБeer,
.
Going from photography to paintings, we note that most of the 20th century
figurative paiБtiБgs aБd КВrks ВБ paper alsВ eЛplВre the rich space iБ betКeeБ
19th century realism and full abstraction. While modern art history and museum
collections focused on influential artworks from variВus isАs, statistically these
are outliers in the universe of the 20th century art made up from millions of
paintings, sculptures and works on papers that are situated at different points along
realism—abstraction dimension.
Modern artworks were designed for viewing in a gallery or in print
publications and photographs appeared in magazines or large posters. Instagram
users design their images for different reception conditions: 4.5-6 inch phone
screens (or much smaller size when shown in a grid in Instagram gallery view); very
quick vieКiБg tiАe; aБd cВАpetitiВБ Кith all Вther iАages iБ user s feed. This leads
to the emergence of particular aesthetics that does not simply repeat modernism of
the 20th century figurative art and photography. (Screen size details: According to
11/20/2015 report, the most popular screen size in many countries at that time was
4.7 inches, followed by 5.5, 5, and 5.1. http://pocketnow.com/2015/11/20/worldmost-popular-mobile-screen-size-resolution.)
Visual and Content Strategies of Designed Photos
Below we list examples of visual strategies used in Instagram design photos, which
we define in comparison to aesthetics of professional photos. They are based on our
informal observations and study of the galleries of young Instagram users from
Russia, Ukraine and Belarus (see examples in Figures 5c, 5d in Part 1 and left side
of Figure 16). Note that in these countries people are particularly concerned about
style and fashion, and a sophisticated look that follows current fashions is expected
for both women and men in most professional settings and situations regardless of
the field. (In contrast, in the U.S. the dominant professional styles are either
standard business suits or casual clothes. Even in NYC, only people in particular
cultural professions and in certain parts of the city dress fashionably). Therefore, it
is quite possible that in other countries design photos use different visual strategies,
and also are less frequent. (In the future we would like to test what we noticed in
our informal observations by measuring characteristics of large samples of
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Instagram photos and comparing them to measurements of photos created for other
mediums, such as early Flickr photos designed for desktops and laptop viewing in
2004-2007, magazine editorial photography, etc.)
This is our list:
-
Increased brightness;
Increased contrast;
Increased saturation, or its opposite—
Decreased saturation to create almost a monochrome photo;
Large proportion of light areas, and small proportion of dark areas;
White backgrounds;
Negative space i.e., large eАpty АВБВchrВАe areas , Кith БВ
gradations or details;
Detailed and texture parts confined to clearly differentiated parts of an
image juxtaposed with other empty parts;
Compositions arranged around diagonal rather that vertical and
horizontal lines;
Use of the point of view looking down from above;
We can illustrate the first characteristic by measuring average brightness of the
photos we already used to discuss professional photos and Instagram designed
photos. The average (mean) brightness of professional photos shown in Figure 1 in
Part 2 is 99 (on 0-255 scale). For designed Instagram photos, it is significantly
higher: 129 for photos in Figure 5c, and 173 for the photos in Figure 5d (in Part 1).
In the case of dedicated authors of galleries of designed photos, there are also
additional key rules that apply to sequences of their photos:
-
-
Use Вf a siБgle visual style fВr all phВtВs iБ user s gallery Вr a feК styles
reserved for particular subjects.
In a sequence of photos posted over a period of time, no two photos
posted one after another should come from the same photo shoot or
show the same subject. Similar photos from the same photo shoot used in
a gallery need to be separated by a number of other photos in between.
Every photo is very polished, no casual photos are included.
Some examples of the strategies from the two lists above can be seen in
Figures 5c and 5d. We alsВ fiБd a feК Вf theА recВААeБded iБ АaБy hВК tВ
online posts, such as How to Establish Your Instagram Aesthetics from 2015:
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Edit all photos similarly. In order to maintain consistent branding, consider
either picking a filter and just using that one, or using no filter at all.
Bouncing around between filters based on the photo is not conducive to
maintaining a common aesthetic. I prefer to pop my photos in Afterlight (my
favorite photo editing app), up the brightness and the exposure, sharpen a bit,
and clarify a bit (to bring back some of the definition you lost from overeЛpВsiБg . That s Аy gВ-tВ phВtВ recipe fВr phВtВs ) add tВ Аy lifestyle blВg
ВБ )БstagraА. NadiБe, (ВК tВ Establish YВur Instagram Aesthetics,
http://blogbrighter.com/establish-your-instagram-aesthetic/, 04/08/2015).
The much quoted study by Curalate published in 11/2013 that analyzed 8 million
Instagram photos also found that the photos that are lighter, have large background
area and use a single dominant color generate more likes. (In addition to describing
already existing trends, this study may have influenced some authors of designed
galleries start using these features . BreБdaБ LВКry, 6 Image Qualities Which May
Drive MВre Likes ВБ )БstagraА, http://blog.curalate.com/2013/11/25/6-imagequalities-that-drive-more-instagram-likes/, 11/25/2013.)
We believe that out of all visual strategies in our two lists above, the single
most important strategy for creating a popular gallery of designed images is the
consistent use of a strong visual style. The experienced authors of design photos
establish a single look and apply it to all their photos. This requires more
modifications than simply increasing brightness, exposure, sharpening, and
clarification as described in the quote above. Strong designed look is achieved by
using only narrow choices on greyscale, hue, saturation, and contrast dimensions.
Only one filter (if used at all) is applied to the photos, and this filter comes from a
third party app such as VSCO, as opposed to built-in Instagram filters.
For example, one look may only have cool colors and low saturation. Another
look may feature only darker tones, and warmer colors. Most sophisticated authors
may have two or more looks, each for different subject, and they create sequences
over time applying these looks. They may also remove some older photos from their
galleries if they do not work in a larger sequence or received few likes.
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Figure 16.
Selections of sequences of Instagram photos from @vita_century (left) and @neivy
(right). Below are aggregated greyscale histograms for all photos in each sequence.
Some of the visual differences between designed and other photo types can be
measured and compared quantitatively. Figure 16 compares a sequence of
designed photos (left) with a sequence of professional photos (right) from the
galleries of two. Similar to a photo camera that shows histograms of tones for a
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single photo, we show greyscale histograms below the photo sequences—but they
are calculated over all nine photos in a sequence instead of a single photo. The
professional photos (left) capture all grey tones equally, and consequently their
combined histogram is close to being flat. The designed photos (right) are not
aiming for photo-realism; instead they use subjects, compositions, and post-photo
effects that result in very light photos but with strong darks preserved—more in
line with 2D design. Consequently, their combined histogram is far from flat; instead
there is a narrow and strong peak corresponding to a narrow range of dominant
light tones.
Our discussion focused on the differences between professional and designed
photo, but they also share some similar aims. Creating visually pleasing aesthetics is
one of them. Another is that they both have to deal with the biggest challenge of
modern photography—dealing with overabundance of information captured by lens
and recording media. Both film cameras and digital cameras of today, including the
ones in phones, record too much information. When we look at a photo that presents
all captured information without any filtering, we may be confused about what is
important and what subject photographer wanted to capture; we may also have
difficulty differentiating between objects and depth planes. Both professional and
designed photo strategies act to reduce visual information. Composition that
positions objects or a person(s) against flat background is one common strategy
used by both. But professional photographers also often want to show perspectival
outdoor scenes. In these cases they may rely on bokeh that blurs background, so the
focus is on face, person or objects in the foreground. Currently small cameras in
phВБes caБ t create bВkeh, sВ if the authВr of designed photos wants to be true to
Instagram medium and only use phone camera, s/he has to resort to other
strategies for reducing information. Many of the strategies used in designed photos
that we listed above act in this way. Strong contrast, increased brightness,
backgrounds empty of details, and use of the point of view looking down from all act
to get rid of details in parts of a photo so the subject clearly stands out.
Like casual and professional photos, designed photos also often feature their own
particular subjects photographed in particular ways. Here are some frequently used
combinations of subjects and visual strategies:
-
-
Spreads Вr flat lays i.e., careful arraБgeАeБts Вf a БuАber Вf Вbjects,
photographed from above);
Photos of separate objects showing one or a few objects from an angle such
as coffee cups, fashion and design magazines, laptops, phones, bags, and
other accessories of a hip / cool / urban lifestyle;
Parts of a body arranged with the object spreads or separate objects;
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-
-
Parts of a body (such as hands holding objects or pointing) with landscapes
or cityscapes;
Full body positioned towards the edge or corner in a scene in ways different
from traditional posing for camera (standing straight, facing camera and
smiling) and normal compositions where figure(s) or face(s) occupy most of
the image;
Avoidance of stereotypical subject/style combinations popular in
commercial photography such as a portrait with blurred background (i.e.,
portraits with bokeh effect).
Note that these subjects of designed photos do not correspond to any popular
particular tags. For example, if you search Instagram for #flatlay, what you will see
that the results are different from flat lays in designed photos. The aesthetics of
photos marked with #flatlay is that of commercial photography; the aesthetics of
designed photos showing flat lays (see Figure 5c in Part 1) is more personal,
eАВtiВБal, aБd АВВdy.
More Context: Irving Penn, Martin Munkacsi, Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and
Global Minimalism
While some of the subjects and composition strategies listed above are similar to
Кhat Кe caБ see iБ cВААercial phВtВgraphy iБ the lifestyle geБre Кe caБ see ВБ
websites, in magazines, in TV ads, and so on. Others can be directly related to the
modernist photo aesthetics that were developed in 1910s-1920s simultaneously
both in art photography and advertising contexts—specifically, close-ups of objects,
products and nature, portraits, or fashion photos that explore differences in textures
between objects and background or use object shapes and shadows to create
geometric structures. First developed during black and white photography era, in
the 1940s these aesthetics further evolved to work in color pages of magazines,
adding color to the number of visual dimensions used to create contrast.
Figures 17a, 17b and 17c show examples of such color aesthetics developed
by American photographer Irving Penn (1947) who worked extensively for Vogue;
earlier black-and-white aesthetics by Hungarian photographer Martin Munkacsi
(1930-1932) who created first outdoor swimsuit fashion spread for Harper's Bazaar
in 1933; German Walter Peterhans (1929-1932) who was photography instructor at
Bauhaus; and even earlier version by another famous American photographer, Paul
Strand (1915).
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17a—Irving Penn
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108
17b—Martin Munkacsi
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17c—Walter Peterhans and Paul Strand
Figure 17.
Examples of modernist art and commercial photography using close-ups and creating
contrasts between textures, shapes, and organic and human-made patterns.
a. )rviБg PeББ, Salad, apprВЛiАately
.
Penn was one the first photographers to photograph objects and food in color, arranged in
precise compositions against a neutral background.
17b. Black-and-white examples from fashion and sport photography by Martin Munkacsi
(1930-1932).
17c. Black-and-white examples from Walter Peterhans (1929-1932, left photo), and Paul
Strand (1915, right photo).
However, the authors of Instagram design photos modified these aesthetics
originally aimed at silver gelatin prints or reproductions in full magazine pages (and
now even larger TV screens) in response to the specific characteristics of Instagram
medium—specifically, the phone screens and Instagram app interface.
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For example, among designed photos we do not see images that are very
dark, or have low contrast, or a lot of intricate detail across all parts of the image.
While such images work on a large magazine page, a laptop or a TV screen, they
would be harder to read on a small phone screen in bright sunlight, or at night, or in
other kinds of light conditions. Instead, Instagram authors prefer compositions that
organize the photo content into a fewer distinct shapes separated by color, tone, or
texture. Such photos are in some ways like app icons—communicating even at a
very small size. As already noted, authors of designed photos also often increase
brightness, contrast and saturation significantly beyond camera defaults to make
the phВtВs pВp. )Б
)БstagraА added a separate Lux control that allows users
to adjust brightness and saturation simultaneously using a single slider). These
differences are very clear if we compare professional images in Figures 1 and 2
with the designed images in Figure 11 (Chapter 2).
Since small screen of a phone can have much less detail than a magazine
page, in order to be visually effective, reducing effects of perspective is particularly
important for Instagram photography. One of the key ways Instagram designed
photos do that is by photographing objects in the spreads form. It is the easiest way
to turn a photo into a clear 2D design with controlled colors, grid arrangement, and
use of parallel and perpendicular lines. This is likely to be one of the reasons behind
frequent use of this point of view on Instagram.
We noted some of the connections between Instagram visual aesthetics and
photographic and design aesthetics of modern print fashion and lifestyle magazines,
but there is also another way to connect them. Rather than comparing Instagram
designed images to photography that was featured inside the magazines on their
pages, we can compare them to magazine covers—and especially the covers of
Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, when their new art directors Agha (1929-), Alexander
Liberman (1944-1961) and Alexei Brodovitch (1934-1958) brought ideas of
European modernism to American magazine design, along with participation of best
American and European art photographers and artists (for the examples of such
covers, see Figure 18). Like Instagram images on mobile phones, the magazine
covers were designed for viewing at a distance, so they used many of the same
strategies that appear abВve iБ Вur list Вf visual strategies used in Instagram design
photos —high contrast, use of large negative (empty) spaces, compositions that
consist from a few clearly separate parts, flat 2 ½ space rather than deep
perspective, and strong rhythm established by using likes arranged at the same
angles.
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Figure 18.
Examples of Harper's Bazaar covers. Left: 1947 (photo by Brodovitch). Center: 1956. Right:
1951 (styling by Diana Vreeland).
Let s turБ БВК frВА the histВry Вf phВtВgraphy tВ that Вf desigБ, aБd iБ
particular the developments of the last
years. DesigБed phВtВs ВБ )БstagraА
also modify the aesthetics of global minimalism to fit what works best on the small
screen. For example, while grey color is the most common in minimalist
architecture and space design, we do not see any pure greys in designed photos.
Instead they use white areas to create high contrast that works better on small
screens.
Along with global and regional versions of minimalism that developed in
second part of the 1990s and early 2000s, Instagram designed photos also
participate in another key contemporary design and lifestyle megatrend—nostalgic
revivals of selected 20th century styles that includes not only fashions from every
decade and mid-century modern furniture and product design, but also particular
БВ lВБger eЛistiБg Аedia techБВlВgies aБd their aesthetics. )Б the case Вf )БstagraА s
original design, this was the decision to only use single size square photos—explicit
reference to photos produced by Kodak Instamatic and Polaroid cameras. Instagram
original filter names and their effects also explicitly reference popular photography
of the second half of the 20th century (when color photography become more
common). For example, according to one description of filters effects, Nashville filter
КarАs the teАperature, lВКers cВБtrast aБd iБcreases eЛpВsure tВ give a light
"pink" tint—making it feel "nostalgic"; TВaster filter ages the iАage by "burБiБg"
the center aБd adds a draАatic vigБette ; Sierra filter Gives a faded, sВfter lВВk.
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Instagram#Filters, accessed 12/25/2015). Such
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historical references and corresponding effects are also used in filters available in
popular third party apps for Instagram. For example, VSCO offers many collections
Вf presets such as The ChrВАatic CВllectiВБ, evВkiБg the tВБe Вf early color
phВtВgraphy ; The EsseБce / Archetype CВllectiВБ ВfferiБg eАulatiВБs Вf cВБsuАer
filАs frВА past
years ; aБd The Aesthetic Series iБspired by classic aБalВg
filА http://vsco.co/grid/journal/new-vsco-cam-presets-available-now,
/ /
. AБd Вf cВurse, the БeВlВgisА )БstagraА itself cleverly cВАbiБes
names of earlier technological media of representation and communication: instant
camera and telegram.
The last question we want to address in this brief analysis of a designed
photo type is the purpose of such photos. Our list above of frequent subjects of such
photos suggests that at least some of them are created for business purposes.
Indeed, some Instagram users want to establish a visually sophisticated profile that
follows the aesthetics of advertising photography (but modified for Instagram—i.e.
including enough of shots of the author in interesting spaces and travel destinations,
with object photos in between), so s/he can then start getting paid by brands to
include their products in photos, or to receive free products in exchange for
featuring them. Such products can range from fashion items to notebooks, so they
ВrgaБically fit iБtВ )БstagraА first persВБ lifestyle aБd travel blВg narrative genre
that goes along with designed photos. Other authors already achieved such status.
They periodically include items that the brands asked them to promote or send
them as gifts in their photos, and include explicit references and links to the brans in
photo descriptions (this is considered to be the right behavior, although not
everybody does this)—fВr eЛaАple, ThaБks tВ XXX [braБd Вr cВАpaБy БaАe] fВr
the КВБderful YYY [prВduct iБcluded iБ the phВtВ].
The Instagram profiles of these authors include details on how to get in touch
Кith theА, sВАetiАes alsВ featuriБg КВrds like cВВperatiВБ —indicating that
these authors are interested in working with brands. The appearance of products in
such Instagram galleries functions as a new type of product placement, the wellestablished practice in media culture. We can also think of such galleries as lifestyle
ads, creating not as much as through staging but through very careful selection of
ВБly certaiБ АВАeБts iБ ВБe s everyday life. The adoption of snapshot aesthetics in
fashion and lifestyle advertising in the 1990s is the background for this type of
Instagram photos—althВugh iБ cВБtrast tВ herВiБ chic Вf Аid
s fashiВБ
photography, all Instagram designed photos with products or gifts from companies
lВВk pretty, aБd cВВl iБ a healthy way, and their authors similarly look at home
in design hotels and coffee shops, rather than in a 1990s rave.
In yet another case, the goal of an Instagram gallery is to establish a
sophisticated visual image that does not advertise any items directly, but as a whole,
makes the viewers interested and involved with the gallery and the author of the
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photos—who is selling some products or services on her/his blog or a web site
indicated in Instagram profile without featuring them directly on Instagram. Such
Instagram accounts function similarly to many contemporary ads that present
images of exciting and desirable lifestyle without showing advertised product or
brand directly—the latter only appearing in the last shot of a video or in corner of a
still add. This ad type is often used for brand marketing—as opposed to product
marketing. For example, in the famous Think Different ad campaign created by
Chiat/Day iБ
fВr Apple after Steve JВb s returБ, the first rule Вf the caАpaigБ
Кas that there КВuld be БВ prВducts iБ the ads. AБd already Аuch earlier iБ the
1930s, the pioneering art director of Harper’s Bazaar s Alexey Brodovitch, in the
КВrds Вf curatВr aБd phВtВ histВriaБ Lisa (Вstetler, КaБted tВ be astВБished by
radical images and was willing to neglect the display of the merchandise.. His bet
was that mood was a better seller thaБ descriptiВБ КheБ it caАe tВ fashiВБ. Lisa
(Вstetler, Photography and Everyday Life in America, 1945– ,
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/phev/hd_phev.htm, 2004).
We noticed plenty of all such commercially motivated designed galleries that
fit strategic phВtВgraphy —but we also see many carefully designed and polished
Instagram galleries without any obvious link to commercial interests. We will
address further the use of commercial-like subjects and aesthetics of photos by
many young Instagram users to define their cultural identities in the next part of the
book.
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Part 4. Themes, Feeds, Sequences, Branding, Faces, Bodies
November 2016
Note: The earlier version of this part was published in PhotoResearcher No. 27, 2017,
http://www.eshph.org/journal/2017/03/15/photoresearcher-no-272017/.) For this
publication we added References at the end of the text with full citation information. You
can also find there links to all online sources used in the text.
I caught the tail end of punk, when the Pistols were already disbanded, and less
revolutionary but still decent bands like the Stranglers, The Fall aБd Pete Shelley s
Buzzcocks were spitting and being spat on, and shouting out against boredom and
bad pop music. At the time, my small village in Lancashire was also home to slightly
older greasers (or smellies), rather impoverished New Romantics, a few Northern
Soulers, some Two-toners, a tiny band of latterday hippies in Afghan coats, some
electronic music fans, and a couple of narcissistic Roxy Music idolaters.
When I walk through that village now, or the town where I live—Totnes—or,
indeed, London or Manchester, I do not really see any tribes except, perhaps for ravenhaired emos and leather jacketed rockists. What I do see is a single look. It goes by various
БaАes, but hipster is the АВst cВААВБ. )ts dress cВde is fuББy Вr uБique T-shirts,
trousers with tight calves, perhaps an ironic tweed jacket, perhaps branded archless pump
and perhaps a WG Grace/Taliban beard.
The causes for this flattening of society are myriad. Social media encourages gang
cВБfВrАisА Кith its like buttВБs aБd retКeets . AАazВБ aБd Вther retail Кebsites have
honed algorithms that coopt trends, so that when someone reveals they like, say, Sonic
Youth, it is assumed they must like Firehose or Dinsoaur Jr—effectively short circuiting
choice. There is also the phenomeБВБ Вf retrВАaБia aБd the Кay digital Аedia eБcВurage
consumers to access everything all at once. Fashion and music are no longer linked to a
moment or an event.
Chris Moss. Why do not young people want to be part of a tribe any more? Telegraph
(UK). 26 May 2015. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/men/fashion-andstyle/11624401/Why-dont-young-people-want-to-be-part-of-a-tribe-anymore.html. )
The dizzyiБg grВКth Вf АetrВpВlises АegalВpВlises, rather as deАВgraphers iБfВrА us,
caБ ВБly fВster the develВpАeБt Вf villages КithiБ the city.
We are, aБd it is characteristic Вf the cВБteАpВrary cities, iБ the preseБce Вf Аasstribe dialectic; the mass being the all-encompassing pole, the tribe being the pole
representing a particular crystallization.
WithВut the rigidity Вf the fВrАs Вf ВrgaБizatiВБ Кith Кhich Кe are faАiliar, it [
urbaБ tribe ] refers tВ a certaiБ aАbience, a state of mind, and it is preferably to be
expressed through lifestyles that appear aБd fВrА.
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Michel Maffesoli, 1988. The Time of the Tribes—The Decline of Individualism in Mass
Society, trans. Don Smith, Sage Publications, 1996.)
By 2016 people and companies around the world were sharing two billion
photographs every day. These activities have many different purposes; the photos
may follow different styles; and the platforms / communication media in which they
circulate (e.g., Instagram, Snapchat, Facebook, WhatsApp, Line, Tumblr, etc.) also
differ significantly. In this chapter, I will continue to investigate particular type of
popular photography that I call Instagramism. I will also discuss important
strategies adopted by many Instagram users as of 2015. If in the previous parts of
the book we focused on contents, styles and photo techniques of single images, the
strategies we will discuss now have to do with a sequence. Like with many other
social networks, Instagram experience is about a temporal sequence of posts (a
feed). At the same time, Instagram UI also has (at least until now) certain unique
ways or organizing images different from, for example, Facebook or Twitter—a
photo grid with three columns across. All these features make Instagram medium
sufficiently different from 20th century common platform for presenting photos such
as newspapers, magazines, books or exhibitions. Although the sequencing of photos
was important to all of them, it becomes a single most crucial strategy for creating
successful Instagram feeds, as we will see in this part.
The Aesthetic Society
I use the term )БstagraАisА as an analogy to modern art movements such as futurism,
cubism, surrealism etc. Like these earlier –isms, Instagramism offers its own vision of the
world and its visual language. But unlike modernist art movements, Instragramism is
shaped by millions of authors connected by, and participating in, Instagram and other
social networks. (Photo editing app VSCO considered to be the standard among
sophisticated Instagrammers had 30 million active users in the beginning of 2016. See
VSCO, 2016.) They influence each other and share advice on using mobile photo apps to
create, edit, and sequence photos to be shared on Instagram
A note about the two terms that frequently appear in this book part: aesthetics and
class. The КВrds aesthetics Вr aesthetic are used prВАiБeБtly by )БstagraААers aБd
authВrs Вf advice pВsts aБd videВs. FВr eЛaАple, the search ВБ YВuTube fВr iБstagraА
aesthetic feed returns 7,200 videos, Кhile the search fВr the phrase )БstagraА aesthetic
on Google returns 144,000 results (searches performed on 11/22/2016). (See Figure 1.)
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Figure 1.
SaАple Вf GВВgle )Аage Search results fВr )БstagraА aesthetics, accessed
1a—first page of search results.
1b—second page of search results.
/
/
.
When I talk about Instagram class, I am not referring to a class in economic sense or
to a hierarchy of groups in society based on wealth, education, prestige or other factors.
Instead, I use this term to refer to millions of young people in many countries who use
Instagram in systematic ways to create visually sophisticated feeds. Typically, they edit the
photos in third-party apps such as VSCO in addition to the basic Instagram app.
Karl MarЛ s concept of means of production is useful here because Instagrammers
can be said to own the means of cultural production. This means, however, not only simply
owing mobile phones and apps but more importantly having skills in using these apps,
uБderstaБdiБg )БstagraА s rules aБd strategies fВr creatiБg pВpular feeds, aБd beiБg able
to apply well these strategies in practice. Importantly, Instagrammers do not have to
alКays sell their skills tВ capitalists —instead, they mostly use their skills themselves to
have meaningful and emotionally satisfying experiences, to meet like-minded people, to
maintain human relations, or to acquire social prestige.
Using these skills also creates cultural capital (Pierre Bourdieu s terА) measured by
numbers of followers or respect in the community. This cultural capital can be translated
into economic capital if an Instagrammer starts working with advertisers and marketers to
promote products in her/his feed, or if her followers purchase goods or services via the
linked blog or website.
Since content creation skills and understanding of the digital platforms and styles of
expression and communication is what matters here, Instagrammers can be also thought of
as knowledge workers in a knowledge society Peter Drucker cВiБed the terА kБВКledge
КВrker iБ
, КritiБg that the АВst valuable asset Вf a st-century institution,
whether business or non-business, Кill be its kБВКledge КВrkers aБd their prВductivity.
See Drucker, 1959). However, I would like instead to propose different terms: aesthetic
workers and aesthetic society (i.e., the society of aesthetically sophisticated consumer
goods and services). In such society, production and presentation of beautiful images,
experiences, styles, and user interaction designs is central for its economic and social
functioning. Rather than being a property of art, aesthetic is the key property of
commercial goods and services. (Thus, aesthetic society is not the same as The Society of the
Spectacle. See Guy Debord, 1967).
Aesthetic society values space designers, user experience designers, architects,
photographers, models, stylists, and other design and media professionals, as well as
individuals who are skilled in using Instagram, other social networks and blog platforms,
aБd Аedia editiБg, creatiВБ, aБd aБalytics tВВls. UsiБg iБ this cВБteЛt refers tВ creating
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successful content, promoting this content, communicating with followers, and achieving
desired goals.
Aesthetic society is also the one where urban / social media tribes emerge and
sustain themselves through aesthetic choices and experience. In the words of Michel
Maffesoli КhВ develВped aБalysis Вf urbaБ tribe already iБ
s, it refers tВ a certain
ambience, a state of mind, and it is preferably to be expressed through lifestyles that favor
appearance and form. AБd the aАbieБce aБd state Вf АiБd, as ) argued iБ Chapter , is
eЛactly the Аessage of Instagramism. If in the modern societies carefully constructed
aesthetic lifestyles were the privilege of the rich, today they are available to all who use
Instagram, VSCO, or any other of 2000+ photo editing apps, or shop at Zara which offers
cool, hip and refined styles in its 2200 stores in 93 countries (see Forbes, 2017).
Instagram Class
In Part 1 I introduced three popular types of photos shared by people on Instagram and
other popular media sharing networks that are analyzed in this book. I will now briefly
review these types since in this Part we again will be using them in comparisons.
I called these photo types casual, professional, and designed. Once again, I need to
remind you that I am not asserting that this covers all Instagram photography. Certainly,
there are other types; moreover, since social media platforms, their users, and their content
keep evolving, I do not want to make claims about applicability of my analysis to every
geographical location, or other periods outside of 2012–2015. The main purpose of casual
images is to document an experience, a situation, or represent a person or a group of
people. A person who captures and shares a casual photo does not try to control contrast,
colors, and composition. Representative function dominates over aesthetic function.
(istВrically these iАages cВБtiБue the practices Вf cВlВr hВАe phВtВgraphy that develВps
in the 1950s as the costs of color film processing decreases.
Professional photos are created by people who are explicitly or implicitly aware of
the rules Вf prВfessiВБal phВtВgraphy that alsВ develВp duriБg the tКeБtieth ceБtury. The
authors of these photos try to follow these rules, conventions, and techniques, which they
likely learn from either online tutorials, posts, videos or classes. Thus, in my use the term
prВfessiВБal refers БВt tВ peВple КhВ earБ liviБg frВА their phВtВgraphy but tВ
photographs that follow particular aesthetics.
My third designed type refers to photos that adopt the aesthetics that go back to a
different tradition of modernist art, design and photography of the 1920s. It was further
developed in commercial fashion, advertising, and editorial photography of the 1940s–
s. NВte that ) use aesthetics tВ refer tВ a cВАbiБatiВБ Вf visual style, phВtВ
techniques and types of content, because in Instagram photos they usually often together.
These aesthetics (there is more than one) follow their own conventions, but because they
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emerged very recently, they may be still less fixed than that of professional photographs.
One significant difference between professional and designed image is the treatment of
space. Professional photos often show deep space, exaggerated by composition, blurred
backgrounds, and choice of subjects. In contrast, designed photos often create a shallower
or flat space with strong two-dimensional rhythm more similar to modernist abstract art
and design. If landscape and cityscape genre exemplifies professional photo aesthetics,
still-life and flat lay genres exemplify design photo aesthetics.
I use the term Instagramism to refer to the aesthetics of designed photos on
Instagram and other sharing platforms. In Part 3 I proposed that the key aspect of
Instagramism is the focus on mood and atmosphere rather than representation or
communication of emotions. I also proposed that Instagramism does not dramatically
ВppВse cВААercial aБd dВАiБaБt iАagery aБd geБres such as lifestyle genre of
photography and videography. Instead it establishes small and subtle distinctions from this
imagery in terms what is shown, how it is shown, and for what purpose. In contrast to the
ВfteБ biБary differeБces betКeeБ high aБd lВК cultures, Вr the clear ВppВsitiВБs
betКeeБ АaiБstreaА culture aБd subcultures duriБg the tКeБtieth ceБtury as aБalyzed
by Pierre Bourdieu, Dick Hebdige and others, Instagramism uses alternative mechanism. In
this it participates in the larger aesthetics movement of the early twenty-first century also
eЛeАplified iБ БВrАcВre style.
High/low and mainstream/subcultures distinctions corresponded to class
differences in income, types of occupations, background, and education. In contrast, I see
Instagramism as the aesthetic of the new global digital youth class that emerges in early
2010s. (I am not using standard terms for geБeratiВБs such as GeБeratiВБ X, MilleББials,
or Generationn Z, because all such terms were typically defined and discussed only using
American context, and in my view they do not necessary apply to other parts of the
worlds.)
Global digital youth class partially overlaps with the global Adobe class. What is this?
Adobe Class is my term for young professionally educated creatives working in design,
video, social media or fashion. Adobe Creative Cloud software dominates the market for
design and media authoring. There are over 8 million registered software users worldwide
as of 09/2016. We can alternatively refer to Adobe Class as Behance Class. Behance.net is
the leading global portfolio sharing platform. It is owned by Adobe and integrated with
Adobe media creation software, so a designer can directly share her/his work on Behance
from Adobe applications. Behance reported that it has six million registered users at the
end of 2015. (For the analysis of the demographics of Behance users, see Kim 2017).
Our junior lab researcher Zizi Li contacted twenty-four Instagram users who have
feeds of well-designed photos to ask if they had any formal education in art, design,
photography or any other creative fields, or if they work in any of these fields at present.
Half of the responders had such education and/or positions; the other half did not.
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Figure 2.
Selected pages from Behance 2015 Year in Review report.
Figure 3.
Behance.com home page (accessed 12/24/2016). The pull down menu shows creative fields
categories available for members to share their portfolios.
Instagramism vs. Normal Photography
I noted that Instagramism does not dramatically oppose commercial visual aesthetics. For
example, browsing stock and microstock photography sites such as Shutterstock, 500px,
and dozens of others (Schreiber, 2016) we see many photos in lifestyle or food categories
that are very similar to many personal photos on Instagram.
But how is the aesthetic of Instagram designed photos related to aesthetics of casual
and professional photo types? In modern society where many aesthetics, styles, and
cultural choices co-exist, they often have to define themselves in opposition to each other.
In contrast to earlier human societies which often were completely isolated, modern culture
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is structural iБ Saussure s seБse. Because АaБy types Вf cultural pВsitiВБs i.e., aesthetics,
ideals, sensibilities, ideologies, interpretations) co-exist, their creators and promoters have
to define them in opposition to each other. More generally, we can say that they are being
deliberately positioned sufficiently far from each in a cultural competitive landscape. (The
metaphor of a landscape containing a number of cultural items situated at particular
distances from each other is not my invention. Marketing research uses a set of methods
called perceptual mapping to analyze and diagram customer perceptions of relations
between competing products or brands. Relative positions and cognitive distances between
any cultural artifacts, authors, genres, styles and aesthetic systems can be also analyzed
and visualized using this approach. In many projects of our lab, we visualize results of
computational analysis of characteristics of large sets of cultural artifacts as such maps.)
So how do you define aesthetics of designed photos using Instagram affordances?
How do we create Instagram cool? By opposing popular image aesthetics, i.e. the types of
photo conventions what we think of as normal, mainstream, popular. (Historically the term
cool and a related term hipster became popular in the 1960s, when they were opposed to
the term square that today is not used that often. See Wikipedia, 2016a.)
For example, if casual portraits and self-portraits (e.g., selfies) show full figures of
one or more people arranged symmetrically in the center, designed photos instead show
parts of bodies away from center cut by a frame (think of Degas s paiБtiБgs). They also
avoid showing faces directly looking into the caАera see Аy discussiВБ Вf aБti-selfie
genre in Tifentale & Manovich 2016).
Similarly, if casual and professional photos favor landscapes and cityscape genres
and often exaggerate the perspective and sense of deep space, designed photos flatten the
space and use large areas empty of any details. (In terms of lenses or zoom levels, this is the
opposition between wide angle and telephoto view that flattens the space.)
The strategies such as faces and bodies cut by frame and flat space align designed
InstagraА phВtВgraphy Кith the first geБeratiВБ Вf АВbile phВtВgraphy —Rodchenko,
Lissitzky, Moholy-Nagy and other New Vision photographers of the 1920s and early 1930s.
They created the visual aesthetics Вf АakiБg straБge by practiciБg visual strategies that
similarly opposed the popular taste, i.e., symmetrical compositions, full figures and faces
looking into the camera. Using the affordances of first compact 35mm Leica camera
released in 1925, New Vision photographers developed a different visual language: looking
at the subject at a 60 to 90 degree angle from below or above; diagonal compositions;
showing only parts of objects and people cut by a photo frame; using high contrast and
geometric shadows that flatten the shapes and space and interfere with shape perception.
In other words, they were making photography that was defamiliarizing the familiar
reality, thus creating a visual analog of ostranenie effect that Viktor Shklovsky described in
1917 in relation to literature. And, as many other avant-garde visual movements of the
1910s and 1920s, they were making perception difficult—by not using visual strategies of
БВrАal phВtВgraphy. That is, ) thiБk that siАply uБderstaБdiБg the cВБteБt Вf АaБy Вf
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their photos required more cognitive effort, since the compositions and subjects of these
photos did not immediately trigger familiar cognitive frames. (Of course, as these strategies
were gradually adopted in commercial design such as magazine covers and layouts, they
became cultural stereotypes that are predictable and therefore easier to recognize and
prВcess cВgБitively. OБ the rВle Вf stereВtypes, eЛpВsure effect, aБd cВgБitive flueБcy iБ
cognitive processing of design, see MacKay, 2015.)
Figure 4.
Examples of strategies used in designed Instagram photos. Selected photos from Instagram
feed @recklesstonight (Kiev, Ukraine) shared during October—December 2015.
Casual and professional photos adopt a set of visual conventions to document events,
people, and situations that follow accepted social norms—for example, taking a group
photo at meetings, conferences, and trips. Designed photos express urban/hipster
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sensibility that opposes these norms. This opposition is constructed using another set of
norms—that of contemporary (2010–) design culture. How does this work?
The creators of designed photos find or stage unique moments, feelings, and states of
being—in space, in time, with other people, with objects important to them. But rather than
directly negating square reality through a strong alternative aesthetics (as hippies did in
the 1960s), contemporary Instagram hipsters are often happy to subscribe to the styles of
global consumer minimalism. Their Instagram photos and feeds (this term refers to all
photos added by a user to her/his account over time) represent our current historical
period where the twentieth century opposites—art and commerce, individual and
corporate, natural and fabricated, raw and edited—are blended together. The Instagram
hipster effortlessly navigates between these positions, without experiencing them as
contradictions.
Figure 5.
Part of the article in businessinsider.com (2015) that discusses historical origins of flat lay
Instagram genre. Left flat lay used to a magazine. Middle and right: examples of flat lay genre from
)БstagraА. SВurce: MegaБ Willett, EveryВБe's Вbsessed Кith 'kБВlliБg' their stuff aБd puttiБg the
phВtВs ВБ )БstagraА, busiБessiБsider.cВА, May ,
.
http://www.businessinsider.com/instagram-flat-lay-trend-knolling-2015-5.
Faces and Bodies
NВК, let s thiБk abВut the frequeБt subjects Вf desigБed phВtВs. ) listed sВАe Вf these
subjects in Part 2. They are spreads Вr flat lays ; phВtВs Вf separate Вbjects, parts of a
body arranged with the object spreads or separate objects; parts of a body (such as hands
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holding objects or pointing) with landscapes or cityscapes; a full body positioned towards
the edge or corner in a scene.
Is there any common pattern in these subjects? Yes: it is the presence of
Instagrammer’s body in the designed photos. But these representations do not follow the
mainstream portrait conventions—instead, they deliberately oppose these conventions.
Hands, fingers, feet or complete figures that are shown in situations: waking up, enjoying a
relaxing coffee moment, surrounded by objects, pointing towards the landscape or objects
in the cityscape, from the back, and so on. This set of strategies does not appear in the
commercial and advertising photography published today or earlier in the twentieth
century, and it also did not exist in New Vision photography.
My suggested interpretation of these Instagramism strategies is the following. The
Instagram author is not a Renaissance or Modernist observer situated outside of the scene
s/he records according to perspectival rules. Instead, she is in the scene, in the situation, in
the moment. See the sectiВБ ВБ aБti-selfie iБ Competitive Photography and the
Presentation of the Self in Tifentale & Manovich, 2016.)
To achieve this effect, often somebody else has to photograph the author in the
scene. This is similar to a third person narration in literature, or a third person view in
video games, when the virtual camera is positioned behind the character the player
currently controls.
And in a certain sense, hipster life as recorded/staged in a series of Instagram
photos is similar to video games which use first person/third person narrator. In the case
of Instagram, the narrative is about the author travelling through the game world,
encountering other people and objects, participating in interesting situations, and having
emotionally satisfying experiences. Like a person navigating worlds in a game—and unlike
a tourist observing from a distance—contemporary Instragrammer is immersed in the
experiences, moments and situations. (On the concepts of immersion and presence in the
study of video games, see Denisova & Cairns, 2015.) And if a tourist is looking for the
unique and exotic, the Instagrammist often enjoys the familiar and even everyday: being in
the favorite cafe in the city she lives in, visiting favorite places in that city, or simply being
in her well-designed apartment or even one aesthetically controlled corner of the
apartment. Instead of only showing her experiences when she travels to far away locations,
being in her everyday space is the most important subject! Thus, it is about interior lifestyle
rather than tourist view outside—although certainly Instagram also has the popular nomad
theme as a well, presenting a diary of a person who never stays too long in one area.
The original use of the hipster term in the 1940 was associated with hot jazz. This
association, in turn, allows us to better understand the meaning of hipness in
Instagramism. Lives of Instagrammers as presented in their feeds can be compared to
unique improvised experiences of jazz players opposed to planned and routine life of
squares.
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Today, the enhanced contrast, saturation and/or colors, the use of diagonals, the
appearance of objects and bodies cut by an image frame in designed Instagram photos are
signs of the immersion, and of life as improvisation. In choosing and representing (or
staging and designing) such style of existence, Instagram authors echo the behavior of the
original American hipsters of 1940s–1950s:
The hipster world that Kerouac and Ginsberg drifted in and out of from the mid1940s to the early-1950s was an amorphous movement without ideology, more a
pose than an attitude; a way of beiБg КithВut atteАptiБg tВ eЛplaiБ Кhy… The
division was hip and square. Squares sought security and conned themselves into
political acquiescence. Hipsters, hip to the bomb, sought the meaning of life and,
expecting death, demanded it now. (Marty Jezer, The Dark Ages: Life in the United
States 1945–1960.)
Of course, looking at many examples of contemporary Instagramism, it is possible to argue
that life as iАprВvisatiВБ the authВrs shВК is cВАpletely staged aБd plaББed by theА.
But the reality is more complicated. The boundary between authentic and staged,
improvised and planned is not always clear. For example, if the author does some basic
edits to the captured photos, increasing a bit brightness, contrast, and sharpness, at what
point do we declare this phВtВ tВ be calculated rather thaБ autheБtic ?
Instagram Themes
As Instagram continued to attract more and more users, and as brands discovered
Instagram, many authors learned that they can use their feeds as advertising for their small
business or freelance work, or as a way to supplement their income by promoting products
sent to them by companies, or to completely support themselves by becoming influencers.
As this happened, the number of photos and feeds that are carefully planned has quickly
increased. Multiple evidence suggests that this shift took place during 2014–2015.
One very example of this structuration of Instagram is the emergence of strong rules
one has to follow to attract many followers. These rules were described in numerous
advice blogs and articles. The first rule: develop a particular style and always use it for all
the photos in your feed.
By 2015, we see even more structure. In addition to earlier term style, another term
becВАes pВpular dВАiБatiБg hВК tВ advice, pВsts, and help videos: a theme. A theme may
combine certain subjects, a particular color palette, and contrast choice.
UsiБg GВВgle TreБds aБd a search phrase iБstagraА theАe ideas, ) fВuБd that the
global web search traffic for this phrase started to increase in January 2014, and then
flattened by June 2015. YВuTube has huБdreds Вf thВusaБds Вf hВК tВ videВs abВut
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Instagram editing, strategies and theme ideas. I have searched YouTube on 11/19/2016 for
few relevant phrases that appear in video titles. Here are these phrases and numbers of
video returned. (Note that to find only directly relevant videos, I have entered the search
phrase in quotes.)
hВК i edit Аy iБstagraА phВtВs —131,000 videos.
hВК i edit Аy iБstagraА pictures —48,600 videos.
hВК i edit Аy iБstagraА phВtВs Кhite theАe —20,000 videos.
hВК i edit Аy iБstagraА АiБiАal theАe —6,130 videos.
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Figure 6.
ScreeБshВts frВА YВuTube hВК ) edit Аy )БstagraА videВs, captured / /
. )Б such videВs,
the presentation often includes shots of an author speaking to the audience, shots showing apps
and phone screens, and shots that combine these two subjects (shown here).
Many of these videos are very popular reaching hundreds of thousands of views in a
few months after their publication. This partly can be explained by the fact that many
videos in this genre feature young female authors. But there are also many popular videos
that feature young and equally hip male authors. Here are just a few examples of the videos
and numbers of views (as of 11/19/2016):
(ВК ) Edit My )БstagraА Pictures + My TheАe, published ВБ / /
,
421,000 views.
(ВК ) edit Аy )БstagraА pictures! | MiБiАal aesthetic, published ВБ / /
231,000 views.
)БstagraА TheАes, published ВБ / /
, 7,000 views.
,
Using a theme does not mean that all photos in one feed should be similar. On the
contrary, you have to have enough variety but this variety also has to be structured. So this
is the second rule of Instagramism: establish and follow a particular temporal pattern for
your feed. Never post similar photos next to each other, but instead alternate between a
few types in a systematic way. Create an interesting formal temporal rhythm, alternating
between compositions, color palettes or other variables. And if the goal of your feed is to
feature products, place enough photos of other subjects in between product photos.
Designing Photo Sequences
The mobile Instagram app allows users to view photo in a few different ways. (Details
below refer to Instagram app interface as of 2015.) Gallery view shows nine photos
organized a 3 x 3 grid. The order of photos corresponds to the dates and times they were
shared on Instagram, with newer photos appearing first. Scrolling down reveals the earlier
photos. Clicking on a single photo in a grid brings a new view. It shows this photo at a
larger size along with other information: number of likes, comments, posted date and time.
This screeБ alsВ allВКs a user tВ perfВrА a БuАber Вf fuБctiВБs such as like, cВААeБt,
and share. (For the analysis of Instagram interface, see Hochman & Manovich, 2013).
Finally, a user also has another view which shows all photos shared by all authors s/he
follows. Since this timeline is also sorted by date/time, the photos of a given author appear
in between photos of all other authors.
Since the time is such important dimension of Instagram interface and user
experience, many Instagrammers design their feeds accordingly as aesthetic experiences in
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time. They employ special sequencing techniques that respond to the ways their photos are
viewed by others which I listed above.
GiveБ the tКВ rules fВr gВВd )БstagraА feeds, Кe caБ divide )БstagraА authВrs
into two corresponding types. Some control the characteristics of all or at least most of
their individual photos, but make no attempt to sequence them in any particular way.
Others control both the aesthetics of individual photos and the overall aesthetics of a
sequence.
For the latter type of authors (which can be individuals, professional bloggers,
influencers, and companies), the sequence aesthetics takes priority over any individual
photos. No matter how interesting a particular photo is, the author does not post it if it
breaks the established rhythm and theme. The blog post called (ВК tВ Establish YВur
)БstagraА Aesthetic NadiБe,
eЛplaiБs this:
Resist the urge to post things that КВБ t fit iБ. )t Аight be teАptiБg tВ pВst
sВАethiБg fuББy Вr beautiful that dВesБ t fit iБ Кith the lВВk yВu ve chВseБ. At sВАe
pВiБt, yВu ll have a phВtВ yВu desperately КaБt tВ pВst but it just dВesБ t work.
Resist the urge to post it anyway and take to Twitter. Any photos that do not fit in
my Instagram aesthetic go straight to Twitter. Sometimes they are photos that
followers would truly enjoy but one photo that is outside of your chosen aesthetic
might look odd in your feed.
A pВst called ReiАagiБg YВur )БstagraА PrВfile DaБa,
gives these suggestions:
frВА aБВther blВg
Come up with a theme and stick with it. Maybe you love colorful and bright photos, or
maybe only black and white photos. Maybe you post drawings, or photos of lovely
laБdscapes. Maybe yВu like styliБg pВsts Вr takiБg clВse ups Вf Вbjects. This dВesБ t
mean creating the same photo again and again, it just means using that basic idea to
inspire your next photo. Find the formula that works for you and that can easily and
quickly be adapted tВ yВur future phВtВs…Your formula should help your photos
appear as if they are part of a set. Like they belong together. Try not to break the
chain—Breaking the chain of related photos using your formula is sometimes
difficult. You do not have to post every single photo you take, just the ones that are
superb… sВ try tВ at least Аake thВse ВБes Аatch the rest.
One male Instagrammer explained in an interview in 2014 how he used small photo
printouts to design the sequence of his photos before starting his Instagram account. He
quickly gathered over 50,000 followers purely on the strength of his individual photos and
his sequencing. I am highlighting this author because his feed does not include any photos
with popular type content that used to get likes and followers such as spectacular views of
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exotic landscapes, young females in swimsuits, or pretty female faces. In 2016, it became
common among Instagrammers to have two Instagram accounts. The one is for the public;
the second is private and used to lay out sequences and see if new photos fit the theme and
established rhythm before they are added to the public account.
The authors who design both individual photos and their sequences may be
cВБsidered as the true )БstagraА prВfessiВБals. They dВ БВt fВllВК the rules Вf gВВd
phВtВgraphy aБd strategies develВped Кell befВre )БstagraА fВr differeБt phВtВ capture
and edit technologies, publication and exhibition platforms, and circulation and feedback
mechanisms. Instead, they systematically exploit the specific properties, affordances,
advantages, and limitations of the medium Instagram.
@sex_on_water
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@tienphuc
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@zahrada
Figure 7.
Examples of sequence strategies used by three Instagram authors. We selected a sequence of 30
photos posted sequentially from each author account. The photos are sorted in the order they
appear in Instagram feed (left to right, top to bottom). Here is basic information about these
authors, including number of follows as of number of followers 05/06/2016:
@sex_on_water. Country. Russia (Saint Petersburg) Followers: 48,000.
Self-description: Evgeniya Iokar. Traveller+Photographer+BlВgger+Barista.
@tienphuc. Country: Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City), Followers: 3815.
Self-descriptiВБ: Graphic DesigБer+PhВtВgrapher.
https://www.facebook.com/kenneth.nguyen2295
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@zahrada. Country: Japan (Kamakura). Profession: unknown. Followers: 13,000.
Member of Instagram groups: _rsa_minimal, mw_jp A cВААuБity fВr АВbile phВtВgraphy
iБ JapaБ .
Learning Instagramism
For a few years I have been following a number of Instagram authors who have perfectly
designed individual photos and sequences of them in their feeds. I suspected that most do
not have any art, photography or design school training. The descriptions below their
photos, blogs, and YouTube channels linked to their Instagram accounts and occasional
statement of ages reveal that many of these authors are in school and some are only 13–16
years old. So they did not yet have a chance to study art or design in a university. And they
are not necessary based in larger metropolitan centers—many live in smaller cities.
However, their visual sophistication, the skills in using Instagram, and overall
quality of their feeds from my point of view is often superior to that of the big commercial
brands or adult, professionally trained image makers. Where do these individual users
learn this? A likely explanation is that at least some of these sophisticated young users
learБ frВА fВllВКiБg aБd studyiБg Вthers КhВ use the АediuА Кell, aБd by sВakiБg iБ the
design principles from numerous well-designed web sites, blogs, apps, and also well
designed physical objects and spaces—although for young people who live in many small
lВcatiВБs far frВА larger cities, ВБliБe resВurces such as YВuTube hВК tВ videВs aБd blВg
posts certainly have to be the major, if not the only, source.
The volume of YouTube videos where Instagrammers show how they edit individual
photos, explain how to create some theme, and give other advice, and the number of views
Вf these videВs alsВ suggest that the БuАber Вf )БstagraА prВfessiВБals is very large, aБd
it has been gradually growing during Instagram history. The authors of such videos are also
often teenagers or young adults in their early twenties. One popular type of such videos I
already АeБtiВБed abВve is (ВК ) edit Аy )БstagraА?
,
videВs as Вf
11/20/2016). In this video genre, the author demonstrates the process s/he follows to edit
each of their photos before they are posted. The author works on a single photo using a few
different apps such as VSCO and Snapseed in a sequence. There are currently hundreds of
third party mobile photo editing apps available for both Apple and Android phones, and
thousands of articles that review and compare them. Each app is used for particular types
of edits, and then a photo is taken to the next app. (For the analysis of similar professional
design workflow where project is moved from one application to the next, see Manovich,
2013).
In this way, the author applies a number of edits (which may or may not include
applying a filter) both to improve a photo and make sure that it fits with her aesthetic and
theАe. AБВther pВpular type Вf videВ is a tВur Вf the authВr s phВБe screeБs shВКiБg all
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her photo editing apps, with explanations of which photo editing app should be used then.
Some authors have 15–20 editing apps on their phone. Some are used for almost every
photo; others only occasionally to add very particular effects.
)Б ВБe Вf hВК tВ YВuTube videВ frВА
, a yВuБg RussiaБ feАale creatВr Вf
sВphisticated desigБ phВtВs says tВ her audieБce: FiБd yВur filters. (er message: Find
your own style and use it systematically. Create your own distinct visual identity.
Experiment and find your own visual voice. Even though two years later, in 2016, the use of
a single filter apparently is not enough, the logic of her message remains equally relevant.
And that is what hundreds of thousands and perhaps even millions of other
)БstagraА creatВrs are dВiБg: learБiБg frВА each Вther aБd frВА tВday s highly desigБed
visual environment, and exploring the unique characteristics of Instagram medium. Their
designed images and narratives are their unique art and also life form. They use the
Instagram medium to find people like them, to share their images, feelings and thoughts
with global audiences who like what they like, to form groups based on common Instagram
patterns (like other bloggers do, too), to plan trips with them, to support each other in hard
moments, to share discoveries, and to define themselves.
The fact that they may be copying styles and strategies from other Instagram users,
fashion collections, design sites, magazines, and other sources where modern design and
hip sensibilities can be observed does not make them any less authentic or less real. To
them, what is real is what they feel, their emotions, and their aesthetic preferences that
generate a sense of coherence and self.
Do We Need to Liberate Instagram Authors?
OrigiБally a platfВrА aiАed at БВrАal peВple rather thaБ prВfessiВБal phВtВgraphers Вr
cВАpaБies, )БstagraА s ВКБ pВpularity traБsfВrАed it as it grew from 100 million monthly
active users in February 2013 to 500,000 million in February 2015 (Instagram, 2016).
Facebook bought Instagram in April 2012. The company started to add new features to
help businesses use the platform for marketing, advertisiБg, aБd tВ have a dialВg Кith
their custВАers. Other features helped iБdividuals iБtegrate their )БstagraА pВsts Кith
their other social networks, which made these posts more valuable as promotion tools.
In June 2013, Instagram added the ability to connect Instagram accounts to
Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr, and Flickr (Wikipedia, 2016b). In November of the same year,
the company enabled advertising via a new sponsored post type (Protalinski, 2013). The
first company to use this was fashion designer brand Michael Kors.
A number of important features for business accounts were announced in May
. They iБclude aБalytics aБd the ability tВ turБ )БstagraА pВsts iБtВ ads directly frВА
the )БstagraА app itself Perez,
. The aБalytics feature called )Бsights shВКs tВp
posts, reach, impressions and engagement around posts, along with data on followers like
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their geБder, age aБd lВcatiВБ. AccВrdiБg tВ )БstagraА, by that tiАe it already had
,
advertisers, and these features were designed to allow business users to understand their
current and prospective customers, reach more people, and refine their profiles (Perez,
2016).
Many Instagram posts that promote products and brands emulate more personal
)БstagraА aesthetics Кith its beiБg iБ the sceБe pathВs. The article Master the Types Вf
PrВduct )БstagraАs WaldrВБ,
describes hВК tВ phВtВgraph prВducts usiБg these
four styles: flat lay, minimalist ShВКcase a prВduct iБ a Бatural settiБg but КithВut
distracting background), the first person, and the scene. The descriptions of the last two
types are very revealing (Waldron, 2015):
The First Person. Give viewers a sense of being in the moment, by taking
photos from a first person angle. It helps promote aspirational dreams relating to
the product. Hold the camera in a spot that would resemble what someone would be
seeing themselves. Centering the product is a good way to keep it feeling personal
and clean.
The Scene. Shoot the product with beautiful scenery and even a storyline in
the description for viewers to envision themselves partaking in. It gives life behind
the product.
The difference between pre-Instagram advertising photography and these
Instagram photo types in that in the former, products or models are presented from the
outside, as though looking at the shop window. But in Instagram, products appear as part
the authВr s life. SВ if the peВple already ideБtify theАselves Кith this authВr s lifestyle aБd
aesthetics, they may also identify with the products presented in this way.
(ВКever, as ) already БВted, the saАe prВduct styles are alsВ used by )БstagraА
authors for non-commercial purpose: to show their favorite objects and their latest fashion
purchases, or include themselves in the photographed scene. Does every photo showing a
hand holding a pretty cappuccino cup promote it? Of course not. But does it contribute to
establishiБg Вr АaiБtaiБiБg the authВr s persВБal braБd, eveБ if this authВr Бever sells Вr
promotes anything? Of course yes. And where does the type of photo that shows a close-up
Вf aБ Вbject Вr its part, thus fetishiziБg it, cВАe frВА? This phВtВ type first appeared iБ
advertising around 1908–1913.
Are the Instagram authors who brand themselves through the use of consistent
aesthetics and also practice prВduct styles trapped iБ ideВlВgy MarЛ, German Ideology,
1845) aБd spectacle DebВrd, Society of the Spectacle, 1967) ? )s )БstagraА s self-branded
self always a false self? DВ Кe Бeed tВ liberate these authВrs?
)Б Аy vieК, trapped )БstagraА authors are the ones who take photos with what I
called professional aesthetics, Вr aspire Вr already eБjВy their БВrАal bВurgeВis life, aБd
dВ БВt questiВБ the КВrld as preseБted tВ theА iБ advertisiБg aБd iБ БeКs. Their good
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136
photos express this sense of conformity, the desire to be like everybody else, i.e. to follow
the dominant social and cultural norms. ) aА usiБg terАs like dВАiБaБt aБd АaiБstreaА
to refer to behaviors, taste, and values that are being held and practiced by a significantly
larger proportion of people than any alternatives. This may make these values to appear
natural and right.
In contrast, I see many designed photos and Instagramism aesthetics as expressions
of a liberated consciousness that is critical of the global middle class reality. (Note that the
middle class grew substantially around the world after the 1990s, reaching 784 million in
2011 according to a recent analysis, with most growth taking place in Asia.)1 Instagramism
finds meaning in refined sensibility rather than in blind conformity. It can mix and match
elements from diverse style and lifestyle КВrlds, КithВut the fear Вf lВsiБg yВurself.
In this (perhaps too romantic) interpretation, the authors of many designed photos
carry on the original vision of InstagraА frВА
. )Б this visiВБ, )БstagraА Кas
cВБstructed via a set Вf differeБces frВА the БВrАal good photography. They include a
square format and filters that not only beautify photos but can also introduce artifacts,
erase details, and add irregular lightness and color gradients that subvert the perfect photo
realism of the lens. The normal photography at that time meant 3 × 4 image ratio inherited
from 35 mm film cameras, having everything in focus, and also showing deep perspectival
space in landscapes, cityscapes, and group portraits. These norms were common in both
professional and casual photography.
Because such norms were most common, and because they were used in
advertising, editorial, and corporate photography, their message is enslavement to the word
as it exists now, to the safe, and to the common sense. The designed and more abstract
photos, on the contrary, communicate, in my view, a different message: having a distance,
being conscious of how social reality is constructed, and being aware of the conventions,
norms, and signs of global middle class ideal of our time.
Of course, after some time this position itself also becomes a new norm now used by
millions of Instagrammers. This is obvious and not unique to Instagramism. What is more
interesting is the differences in aesthetic preferences and expectations of the same social
classes in different countries. In the West, only in countries like Sweden, Norway, Finland
and parts of Italy contemporary design has become mainstream, and middle classes are not
alienated by it. But in the rest of Europe and North America, only some parts of middle and
upper classes are at hВАe Кith cВБteАpВrary desigБ. SВ Кhat is seeБ as АaiБstreaА
fВrАs iБ ВБe cВuБtry becВАes avaБt-garde aБd БВt БВrАal in another country. And
БВК let s alsВ cВБsider Asia. ) have beeБ speБdiБg tiАe iБ KВrea, ThailaБd, aБd JapaБ, bВth
The figure of 784 million members of global middle class by 2011comes from Kochnar, 2015. A much
higher figure of 1.8 billion is reported in Pezzini, 2012. While thing economists do agree on is that the size
of the global middle class grew substantially. Kochnar, for example, claims that this size grew from 399
million to 784 million between 2001 and 2011, reaching 200 million in China alone.
1
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137
in biggest cities and in small places. In these countries (and this likely also applies to a
number of other Asian countries, although I do not have direct experience there), being
cВБteАpВrary aБd iБ treБd is БВt aБ ВptiВБ but a requireАeБt. This АeaБs that
sophisticated contemporary design is used in kinds of places that even in most design
cВuБtries iБ EurВpe Аay reАaiБ БВt desigБed ; Бot only urban youth but people of all ages
pay carefully coordinate their dress and overall look; and the use of social media including
Instagram and messaging apps is also more intense. In other words, the kinds of behaviors
and values that in the West we may associate only with young urbanites, or creative class,
or upper class, or one gender, or another group are norm for more people in certain Asian
countries. For example, staging and taking photos, carefully editing them to get the desired
aesthetic look, posting them to social media or groups in messaging apps is much more
widespread than in Western cities.
Thus, then we analyze contemporary culture in terms of structural differences, we
need to remember that oppositions such as mainstream/alternative are culturally relative.
The oppositions that are important in one country may not exist (or be very weak) in
another country. This is why identifying Instagramism with particular demographic,
spatial, or professional categories is dangerous (such as people in early 20s, or people in
big cities, or people in creative fields). Postulating Instagramism as the aesthetics Вf glВbal
digital yВuth Кas a useful place to start—but eventually we would need to go beyond such
categories.
Appropriation, Subcultures, Tribes, Mainstream?
)Б cВБtrast tВ the iБflueБtial aБalysis Вf the styles Вf subcultures iБ Dick (ebdige s
Subculture: The Meaning of Style (1979), I do not see Instagram aesthetic of designed photos
as a symbolic resistance. Young Instagram hipsters do not resist the mainstream; they coexist with it, and are not afraid to borrow its elements or show how much they enjoy
commercial products and their favorite brands.
Instagramism is not about binary differences from the mainstream. It is about
selection and combination of particular elements, drawn from different contemporary and
historical universes, including commercial offerings. (In contemporary visual creative
industry, this remix logic was best realized in my view in collections of a number of fashion
designers created between 1993 and 2006. Among the top global designers in that period,
these were Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Jean Paul Gaultier).
Our standard model of modern and contemporary cultures assumes that new styles,
sounds, art forms, ways of behavior, and other cultural strategies and imaginaries are
typically created by small subcultures and then later appropriated by commercial culture
producers who package them into products sold to the masses. Indeed, we can easily evoke
plenty of examples of such appropriation stories. The subcultures or cultural movements
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who figure as original inventors in these stories include European Modernists of the 1920s,
Paris Surrealists of the 1930s, Beat Generation in late 1940s in NYC, Northern California
Hippies in the 1960s, Hip Hop in the Bronx in the early 1970s, or Williamsburg (Brooklyn)
in late 1990s.
Does Instagram hip generation fit into this model? In my view, Instagrammers are
neither the avant-garde creating something entirely new, not subcultures that define
themselves in opposition to the mainstream, nor the masses consuming commodified versions
of aesthetics developed earlier by some subcultures. They are АВre siАilar tВ MaffesВli s
tribes, but existing in the digital global )БstagraА city rather thaБ as villages iБ a
physical city. See BeББett,
fВr the ВvervieК Вf subculture aБd tribe cВБcepts iБ
sociology of culture).
If creation of something new by small subcultures or modernist art movements
represents a first stage, and later appropriation and packaging for the masses represents a
second stage iБ АВderБ cultural evВlutiВБ, thaБ the cultural lВgic Вf )БstagraАisА
represents a third stage: Instagrammers appropriating elements of commercial products
and offerings to create their own aesthetics. Instagram and other visual global networks
quickly disseminate these aesthetic forms worldwide.
As opposed to the movement of cultural innovation from individuals and small groups
to companies and then the masses as described by appropriation model, we also now have
other types of movements enabled by social networks: from individuals and groups to other
individuals and groups. The industry borrows as much from these individuals and groups as
it influences them. (This logic was already anticipated in the emergence of coolhunting
research in the early 1990s. See Brodmerkel & Carah, 2016.)
On Instagram, one operates in a truly global space not constrained by local physical
and geographical reality. Although there are many paid photo editing apps available, both
Instagram and enough powerful third party editing apps are free. Among young people in
most countries in Asia, South America, and Eastern Europe today, mobile phone and social
media use is as a big or even higher than in the developed Western economies (see
statistics in Figure 8 and Figure 9). The same fashion and lifestyle magazines, perfect
cappuccino and latte cups, fashion items, and brands of sport shoes can appear in photos
from almost anywhere in the world where there are young people who use Instagram.
Certainly, because of the differences in income, fewer people in developing countries can
afford global brands like Zara or Uniqlo, but there are enough local brands that are cheaper
and make products that look equally good.
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Figure 8.
Proportions of people in 16-64 age group who have accounts on social networks in 34 countries,
Quarter 1, 2016. (22 social platforms are included in the survey). For most recent figures, consult
http://insight.globalwebindex.net/social.
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Figure 9.
Average time spent on social networks for people in 16-64 groups in 34 countries, Quarter 1, 2016.
(22 social platforms are included in the survey). For most recent figures, consult
http://insight.globalwebindex.net/social.
In physical reality, the local norms constraint how people dress and behave.
CВАpare NeК YВrk s Chelsea & LВКer East Side, SeВul s GarВsu-gil (Figure 10), and
Harajuku area in Tokyo (Figure 11). You hardly see any color besides black in New York;
in Seoul, white/grey/black palette is the norm; in Harajuku, it is combinations of
complementary (warm and cold) bright saturated colors and pastels. Each cultural norm
offers plenty of space for variations and individualization—Tokyo street fashion was the
most extreme well-known example of such variations in the 2000s. A cultural norm
constraints choices only on a few dimensions but not on others. So while my examples
focused on only one type of Instagram designed aesthetics that we found in images from
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many countries, it would be very interesting to investigate other types of Instagram
aesthetics that reflect other local aesthetic norms.
I hope my analysis has demonstrated that Instagram today offers a great platform
for studying not only contemporary global photography, but also contemporary global
cultural evВlutiВБ aБd dyБaАics iБ geБeral. As the АediuА Вf chВice fВr the АВbile class
of young people today in dozens of countries, it provides insights into their lifestyles,
imagination, and the mechanisms of existence, meaning creation, and sociality.
Figure 10.
GВВgle iАage search fВr (arajuku street style, tВp three rВКs,
/
/
.
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Figure 11.
GВВgle iАage search fВr Garosu-gil street style, tВp three rВКs,
/
/
.
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References for Part 4
Brodmerkel, S., & Carah, N. (2016). Brand Machines, Sensory Media and Calculative
Culture. London: Palgrave MacMillan.
Bennett, A. (1999) Subcultures or neo-tribes? Rethinking the relationship between
youth, style and musical taste. Sociology Vol. 33 No. 3 August 1999: 599–617.
Dana. (2015, January 25). Reimaging Your Instagram Profile. Retrieved from
http://www.thewonderforest.com/2015/01/reimagining-your-instagramprofile.html
Denisova, A., & Cairns, P. (2015). First Person vs. Third Person Perspective in Digital
Games: Do Player Preferences Affect Immersion? Human Factors in
Computing Systems: Proceedings of the 33rd Annual ACM Conference, 145-148.
Retrieved from https://wwwusers.cs.york.ac.uk/~pcairns/papers/Denisova_CHI2015.pdf
Drucker, P. (1959). The Landmarks of Tomorrow. New York: Harper and Row.
Google. (2016, November 22). Search results. Retrieved from
http://www.google.com/?gws_rd=cr&ei=h78zWPPgDMvbvATu9ImADQ#ne
wwindow=1&q=%22Instagram+aesthetic%22
Forbes.com (2017, May). The WВrld s MВst Valuable BraБds,
RaБkiБgs. #
Zara. Retrieved from https://www.forbes.com/companies/zara/.
Hebdige, D. (1979). Subculture: The Meaning of Style. London: Methuen.
Hochman, N., & Manovich, L. (2013). Zooming into an Instagram City: Reading the Local through
Social Media. First Monday, July. Retrieved from
http://firstmonday.org/ojs/index.php/fm/article/view/4711/3698
Instagram. (2016, June 21). Instagram Today: 500 Million Windows to the World. Retrieved from
http://blog.instagram.com/post/146255204757/160621-news
Kochnar, R. (2015, July 15). A Global Middle Class is More a Promise than a Reality. Retrieved from
http://www.pewglobal.org/2015/07/08/a-global-middle-class-is-more-promise-thanreality/
Kim, Nam Wook (2017). Creative Community Demystified: A Statistical Overview of Behance, May 2,
2017. https://arxiv.org/abs/1703.00800.
MacKay, J. (2015, November 5). The Psychology of Simple. Retrieved from https://crew.co/blog/thepsychology-of-simple
Maffesoli, Michel. (1988). The Time of the Tribes—The Decline of Individualism in Mass Society, trans.
Don Smith, Sage Publications, 1996.
Manovich, L. (2013). Software Takes Command. New York and London: Bloomsbury
Academic.
Manovich, L. (2016-). Instagram and Contemporary Image. Retrieved from
http://manovich.net/index.php/projects/instagram-and-contemporaryimage
Nadine. (2015, April 8). How to Establish Your Instagram Aesthetic. Retrieved from
http://blogbrighter.com/establish-your-instagram-aesthetic/
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Perez, S. (2016, May 31). Instagram officially announces its new business tools.
Retrieved from https://techcrunch.com/2016/05/31/instagram-officiallyannounces-its-new-business-tools/
Pezzini, M. (2012). An Emerging Middle Class. OECD 2012 Yearbook. Retrieved from
http://oecdobserver.org/news/fullstory.php/aid/3681/An_emerging_middl
e_class.html
Protalinski, E.
, OctВber . )БstagraА cВБfirАs ВccasiВБal iБ-feed image and
video ads are coming to the US in the next couple of months. Retrieved from
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Schreiber, T. (2016). 22 Awesome Websites with Stunning Free Stock Images.
Shopify.com. Retrieved from https://www.shopify.com/blog/17156388-22awesome-websites-with-stunning-free-stock-images
Tifentale, A. (2017). Rules of the PhВtВgraphers UБiverse. Photoresearcher, April,
2017.
Tifentale, A., & Manovich, L. (2016). Competitive Photography and the Presentation
of the Self. In J. Ruchatz, S. Wirth, & J. Eckel (Eds.), Exploring the Selfie:
Historical, Analytical, and Theoretical Approaches to Digital Self-Photography.
Palgrave Macmillan, forthcoming. Retrieved from
http://manovich.net/index.php/projects/competitive-photography-and-thepresentation-of-the-self
Waldron, Z. (2015, August 13). Master the 4 Types of Product Instagrams. Retrieved
from https://hellosociety.com/blog/master-the-4-types-of-productinstagrams/
VSCO (2016). VSCO Announces 30 Million Active Users. Retrieved from
http://vsco.co/about/press/vsco-announces-30-million-active-users,
January 13, 2016.
Wikipedia. (2016a). Hipster. Retrieved from
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hipster_(1940s_subculture)
Wikipedia. (2016b). Instagram. Features and Tools. Retrieved from
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Instagram#Features_and_tools
YouTube. (2016, November 22). Search results. Retrieved from
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=instagram+aesthetic+feed
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Appendix
iPhone models: release dates, display resolution, camera resolution
model
release date display height display width
iPhone
29-Jun-07
480
320
rear camera front camera
(megapixels) (megapixels)
2
-
iPhone 3G
11-Jul-08
480
320
2
-
iPhone 4
24-Jun-10
960
640
5
0.3
iPhone 4s
24-Oct-11
960
640
8
0.3
iPhone 5 / 5s
21-Sep-12
1136
640
8
1.2
iPhone 6
19-Sep-14
1334
750
8
1.2
iPhone 6 Plus
19-Sep-14
1920
1080
8
1.2
iPhone 6s
25-Sep-15
1334
750
12
5
iPhone 6s Plus 25-Sep-15
1920
1080
12
5
iPhone 7
16-Sep-16
1334
750
12
7
iPhone 7 Plus
16-Sep-16
1920
1080
12
7
Instagram timeline: app releases, new features, new filters, commercialization
Compiled from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Instagram and posts on Instagram company blog.
(More details: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_Instagram.)
date
app releases and
new features
10/ 2010
Instagram app released for iOS:
square same size photos; adding photos
only via Instagram app; feed uses
chronological oldest-to-newest order,
built-in filters
1/2011
Hashtags added to help users
discover photos and other users
Instagram v2.0:
live filter preview, increased
photo size, tilt-shift tool,
one click rotation
9/2012
4/2012
4/2012
12/2012
new filters
Commercialization
Amaro,
Rise,
Hudson,
Valencia
Instagram app released for Android phones
Facebook acquires
Instagram
Mayfair,
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146
Willow
6/2013
11/ 2013
Video sharing
5/2014
10 new editing tools—straighten, brightness,
contrast, warmth, saturation, highlights,
shadows, vignette, sharpen
Image advertisements
starts appearing in
feeds
8/2014
Analytics features
made available to big
advertisers
12/2014
Slumber,
Crema,
Ludwig, Aden,
Perpetua
3/2015
4/2015
Layout app to make image collages
5/2015
8/2015
Structure tool
Landscape and portrait
photos and videos are now
accepted
Lark, Reyes,
Juno
2/2016
200,000 advertisers
using Instagram
business profiles,
Insights analytics for
all business users,
the ability to turn posts
into ads
5/2016
6/2016
8/2016
Introduction of algorithm-based
feed images ordering
Instagram Stories (image and video
disappear after 24 hours)
9/2016
12/2016
2/2017
500,000 advertisers
using Instagram
Can save Вther user s photos for later
viewing
Addition of carousel format (can contain
up to 10 images or video)
5/2017
Can add photos using Instagram mobile
website (in addition to app)
5/2017
A user can move her/his photos from
timeline and optionally restore later
(Archive feature)
1,000,000 advertisers
using Instagram
146
147
Proportions of Instagram users outside of U.S., 2013—2016
09/09/2013: 60%
10/12/2014: 65%
09/22/2015: 75%
06/21/2016: 80%
Top countries for Instagram visitor traffic, 2/2017
source: https://www.statista.com.
147
148
Instagram users growth, 2013—2017
source: https://www.statista.com.
148