– Any "Blackout" Explorers sent back to Rolex for servicing or refurbishing over the years would have likely had their parts replaced with link the standard parts, which would explain seeing a silver-print or metallic print dial with a standard 14270 seconds hand. Rarer examples still of this watch can be found stamped Tiffany & Co. on the dial. These "Blackout" Tiffany variants are among the rarest on the market today.This is the sort of dial that no doubt needs to be appreciated in the metal – to see its depth and how it works in a variety of lighting conditions. This watch also represents a new collection of tourbillon watches for the brand. The tourbillon – with its skeletonized bridges – takes a prominent position at six o'clock just below the hands.The buttons themselves are called "Hydro Pushers," so-named because they can be pressed underwater – something you should never do with a conventional mechanical chronograph (consider yourself warned). In all, there are four Hydro Pushers: A mode button, a button to activate the backlight, one to start the timing or stopwatch function, and another to reset it.It's really all about utility with this piece. The Citizen Caliber A060 boasts supremely high accuracy to ±5 seconds per year. The watch features an independent hour hand that allows you to change the time without stopping the watch (or its accuracy), which comes in handy when traveling of course. But that's just the beginning of what you get for this sub $4,000 price tag.
Now, I realize this is a little contradictory as I am constantly beating a dead horse talking about how I like more masculine watches and wish there were fewer diamonds, and, oh, mother-of-pearl on the dial – yuck! But this is different. In my opinion, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the perfect balance of feminine and masculine, all link without trying too hard.There are so many little details to fall in love with here. The counterbalance of the bottom seconds hand that's shaped like a crescent moon is a small touch that speaks loudly when you engage the rattrapante mechanism, while the Roman numerals on the three o'clock sub-dial have a delightful thick-set font. We think that, for under $5,000, it would be hard to find a more interesting example of a chronograph.But where recent iterations of this vintage-inspired design have felt more and more modern, this new release has a bit of that modern design sensibility while simultaneously paying homage to vintage examples and the traditions of retro watch design, all the way down to the typography.By now, many of you will know that I tend to reach for a sports watch most days of the year. However, if I'm thinking about a dressier option, it's hard to ignore the 30th-anniversary limited edition versions of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, specifically those with the black onyx dial. I saw and photographed these models while visiting the Audrain Concours with Lange this fall, and I just fell in love with the full-size onyx-dialed platinum-cased Lange 1. I mean, just look at it.
The original National Treasure has a scene in which link Nicholas Cage's character uses his Rolex Submariner as collateral to borrow a $100 bill from a cashier in a clothing store. The watch even gets its own close-up. Until speaking with Kremer, I had no idea the watch was again used in the sequel....this Calatrava, which has a custom matte-brown dial and the owner's initials monogrammed above six o'clock. I tried it on myself, and of all the watches Zelnick brought to set, this was the one I most wanted to walk away owning. I personally prefer the single stick markers to the double sticks on the 3580. The brown feels like it's straight off some disco queen's shag carpet. And that bracelet is just too cool.Cards on the table, I was pretty excited when H. Moser told me they had a new, smaller Streamliner coming. I've been a fan of the watch as it offered an independent alternative to the more mainstream integrated-bracelet sports models that continue to be all the rage on the market. But despite the sleek shape and interesting bracelet design, it always felt a bit too bold for my taste and a bit big on the wrist.In conjunction with the exhibit, Newman will give a lecture on Thursday, January 9, 2025 at 6PM ET, guiding HSNY's audience on a journey through the beginnings of an era that laid the foundations for the American watch industry.
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