Blessed with a prime location at The Palazzo, Morels French Steakhouse & Bistro has some of the Strip’s best views. Inside the restaurant, from the showcase fromage station and live oyster-shucking greeting you as you enter the dining room to the Parisian art adorning the walls, Morels has created a culinary exhibit for your dining pleasure.

Any Morels experience should begin with the Strip’s most diverse cheese selection. Choose from more than 40 options including such rarities as crystalline super-aged Gouda, creamy Valençay pyramid and sharp Hook’s 10-year aged cheddar. Choices are broken down by milk type—cow, sheep or goat—and firmness. Pick your preferences and pair with some Fra’ Mani soppressata or prosciutto di San Daniele for a proper start to your meal.

If you’re dairy averse, then look to Morels’ oysters instead, where three to five varieties are offered daily—choices may include sweet Kumamotos, cucumbery Fanny Bays or lightly salted Malpeques. Accompanied by fresh horseradish, a sharp mignonette and house-made cocktail sauce, this snack won’t ruin you for the feast to come. While the appetizers are only the opening act, the main event begins with your salad. Check out the petite romaine heart salad—Morels’ take on the Caesar, authentically prepared tableside. The rich, anchovy- and garlic-laden paste endows the romaine hearts with sharp flavor; mixed with fanfare, it’s a show unto itself.

Another act is the presentation of the porterhouse. This 32-ounce beast is filleted tableside for all onlookers to take in. Although quality cuts such as the porterhouse or the 35-day dry-aged New York sirloin need no garnish, you would be well served in ordering an accompaniment of the Morel mushroom sauce; the eponymous side provides a rich, umami complement to the beef. And because you’ll want some vino with your steak, Morels carries a thoughtful wine list with some interesting finds. Of particular note are the Vanishing Point chardonnay and Squirt Gun cabernet; both are produced by Morels’ owners and present a remarkable value.

The halibut au Morels, served over sautéed spinach and vegetables, presents a tender morsel. As is important with any steakhouse, sides are just as interesting as the main event. Potato Dauphinois—a French recipe for what is essentially garlic potatoes gratin—delivers a crispy, cheesy topping to a rich, savory dish. Equally as hearty is the chef’s country mac and cheese, delivering the quartet of Parmesan, blue, Emmentaler and Gruyère with cured ham for a side that’s worthy of mantle of an entrée.

For dessert, choose from house-made ice cream and sorbet, with unique flavors such as banana chocolate chip and hot chocolate ice creams and coconut sorbet. The mixed berry crumble combines an assortment of berries—of the black, blue, straw and rasp varieties—in a buttery crust. Either makes for a fitting conclusion to your evening.

The Palazzo, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun., 8 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 8 a.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat., weekend brunch 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat.-Sun. 702.414.1000