Charleston, SC Trip Report

Old Nov 10th, 2005, 02:46 PM
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Charleston, SC Trip Report

Just returned from Charleston. First time visitor.

First trip report I've ever posted, so apologize if too little or too much info:

First, let it be said I want to clone the lovely people of Charleston and transplant them everywhere.

I'd posted before for suggestions and thanks to all who answered w/ ideas (birgator,haney20, loveitaly, aunt annie, etc) and esp Go Travel for her posted trip report that I referred to. This was a short trip for us, husband had a business meeting w/ a few events including wives, and I jump on any opportunity to explore something new solo.

Day One: arrived around 4pm; checked in to Renaissance Hotel, site chosen by those planning business mtng, w/ excellent room price package, but generally I thought a good location on Wentworth near King, down the street from Jestine's (from fodors postings I'm already recognizing places!) Hotel lobby lovely, greeting staff friendly, accomodating, etc.-

I arrive in dire need of coffee, as usual for me after traveling all day, and while checking in at desk look to my left and see a Starbucks kiosk down hall next to bar. Husband smiles, knows wife is happy. I order but several patrons approach within seconds and are being "assertive" and interrupting with questions and trying to place their order in the midst of mine and causing confusion aside from rudeness....I decide to be quiet and patient, as they are trying to figure out if she has coca cola and what else... waitress is on her game handling them perfectly and in the meantime as she is "handling" them miraculously she silently slips me my latte and whispers "no charge" - I am liking this place.

We have business event from 5-7 so quick change in room (which is clean and in exc shape) and then we are off for a nice walk via Meeting St past Market area to Church St and to dinner at much recommended SNOB.

We had a WONDERFUL experience: excellent waiter, marvelous food, - appetizers, salads, entire meal, -esp the roast rack of lamb, one of best I've EVER had, cooked to perfection. (I can't eat seafood, so a a true carnivor/pasta person and I love lamb) Husband loves tuna special; we share sour cream apple pie - good not excellent, but comparing to my mom's recipe isn't fair, and I had to ask them to warm more, but still sent back a clean plate. Minor point overshadowed by excellence of everything else. Waiter assisted in choosing lovely wine, when manager stopped by our table on her rounds, she chatted with us for some time about the decor, original use of building, history of brick archway entry to kitchen, etc.

We stroll home (or should I say roll home) full, happy, exhausted fall into bed. We turn a/c off b/c we don't need it and over next 30 minutes room smells horrible. I grew up between ocean and river, so I am used to marsh smell, but this is different. It is coming from vent in closet...foul. I move clothes out of closet for obvious reasons. Smell is permeating room, I am not a complainer, but call front desk. Told something about intake air system/paper mill/ wind direction/ but they are happy to come and check out. Gentlemen arrives and agrees smell is overpowering, apologizes and returns in moments with bellman dolly and moves everything to room across and down the hall/ we joke about pajama parties as we dash back and forth and in three quick trips move everything. Odor is slight to non-existent in this room so we sleep soundly and small but nice view of new Cooper River Bridge.

Day Two: Husband off early to meetings; I do the morning "in room traveling exercise thing" and decide to pamper a bit and order breakfast in - it arrives in less than 15 minutes and hot - which isn't always my experience.

Then I am off - walk to Market area looking at sites along way, architecture is magnificent, go thru market stalls, enjoy talking with basket weavers especially and trying to narrow down and remember who has what for return purchasing, see US Customs Bldnd (impressive), walk along Church St, sometimes hopping off on a side streets w/ plenty of places to browse in, down to somewhere around Broad St area cut over to King St and some more side streets when enticed. Great galleries, antiques, boutique specialty gift shops, generally great shopping as you all said.

And here I have to add, how friendly a town is this?! Not fake friendly, but genuine friendly - warm, smiles from strangers and passing hellos, everyone willing to help with questions, - no feelings of "oh, another tourist" but "are you enjoying our city?" Are you kidding? Who could not? And the sun in shining and it is all around a perfect day.

A critical stop at Saks ( a great one) for the mascara that is sitting with my walking shoes at home on the bench; Copper Penny, Bob Ellis, Nancy's and more....

Ok, since I left my Mephisto walking shoes at home and my sandals (yes with heels) are pure torture I find a small store on King that sells bandaids and cover the bottom of my feet before they are covered in blisters - not really working and finally see a store that sells Mephistos and decide it's worth having the extra pair vs. day of increasing pain and now I''m moving again.

The Rangoni Shoe Store makes my day- used to have one near me, no longer, and they are great shoes for me - anyone who is happy when they find shoes they know work will understand- even with my fairly sore feet they are comfortable and I walk out with 3 pair being shipped, a catalogue, added to their mailing list, and an email address from the manager who will gladly correspond and ship me whenever I want. Bonus.

Now I stand at the corner to get my bearings and realize my hotel is about two buildings up on Wentworth but my feet are moving and I go down to see College of Charleston/Marion Square area - and can I say even the college kids are incredibly helpful and friendly and point me towards a place for iced coffee - no lunch today, no time to eat and I don't even care. I sit and enjoy.

Back to hotel and biz dinner at James Island Yacht Club which has lovely views. Around 8:30 pm chatting with staff who tells us people are unloading and cleaning their shrimp on the connected dock - we venture out there and spend about 30 minutes with these guys who genuinely enjoy giving us an entire lesson on shrimp history in Charleston, where and how they catch, how to clean, freeze, and a variety of recipes (we are all laughing about the Forrest Gump movie and a million ways to cook shrimp) and this was the highlight of our evening - good people, great local knowledge, good laughs.

Back to hotel bar to watch the (gulp) Patriots game and have a nightcap.

Day Two: Husband off again for biz golf outing. I have great breakfast in hotel- lemon souffle pancakes (worth the 20 minute wait required) and fresh fruit plate.

To Edmondston Alston house, Heyward Washington House, and down to market stalls and purchase baskets, and the aroma drags me into Kilwins Chocolate Shoppe on S. Market street - they are making fresh caramel corn and I shouldn't yet be hungry but I am overwhelmed. I planned to eat a real lunch today at Poogans Porch or Mistral but I can't help myself and the guy offers me a taste and it's all over - he makes me a fresh bag and I buy a freshly made lemonade and assorted other treats (chocolate/peanut butter covered rice krispie treats on a bar included) and walk down to Waterfront Park.

This is amazing spot. The fountains are beautiful (esp the pineapple one) and I walk the entire area and boardwalk, end up on a bench and wash my candy down with lemonade. I feel like a kid being oh so bad. The view, the marsh grass, the sunlight, the water, it is fabulous to just sit here and soak it all in. I love that the sign states you can't swim, but are allowed to wade in the fountains on the first few steps. Several people cooling their tired feet.

I head out and walk by Rainbow Row, Exchange St area/see Caroline's Restaurant and wish I was eating there one night, thru some small park I can't remember name of, to a cobblestone street, and walk to the French Protestant Huguenot Church.- realizing there is probably a better planned route but don't care and am enjoying wandering. Somewhere along the way I did see Poogans Porch and now really want to eat there. End up at top of Broad St and make my way down, reading guide and historical notes on the way...

Loved the Candle Lovers Delight store, the Clowns Bazaar, some galleries, and re walk part of King with a stop in a few stores - back to rest at hotel for 30 minutes and meet up with husband and take him immediately back to Waterfront for him to see, and we sit on those bench seat swings and enjoy the view and I rest my feet. He loves it.

Walk again almost the same route back stopping in at some antique/gallery places. On way we check out menus at Magnolia's where we have dinner rezzies and at Cypress and switch to Cypress b/c I see Steak Diane and decision is made.

On King St we stop at King Street Grille (?) or something like that - the one with all the tv's - have marguerita's and some great potato/cheese/stuffed "egg rolls" and brushcetta and walk further down and wrap around so we see old Charleson Fire Station and back to hotel to ready for late dinner rezzie. Husband realizing he isn't really getting to experience Charleston and must return.

Pedicab to Cypress. Decor is eclectic, funky - mixture of brick, leather, glass, paper table lights, glass wine wall nice touch, and ceiling lights slowly changing colors are cool although somehow reminiscent of those lava lamps we used to have in college as the changing colors from green to blue to red etc slightly alter lighting as we are reading menus, combined with the wine it's a hoot. Lighting not really a problem, better to blame on the wine and just have more.

Had incredible Portobello Napoleon w/ boursin cheese and balsamic reduction for appetizer, husband had a some seafood special/ then after changing rezzie from Magnolia's b/c I wanted Steak Diane, I end up ordering Beef Bourguignonne (blame that on the wine too) - which was great and husbands main course is what he says is an incredible scallop and bacon (think real, thick, tasty original bacon not Oscar Mayer) w/ brussels sprout-toasted mustard seed dish and he can't stop raving about with every bite. Fabulous wine choices. Can't believe we have to pass on dessert, but no room. Call same Pedi cab from table for ride back to hotel. He is there in under 10 minutes.

We leave the next morning after breakfast again at hotel, which is their treat b/c they feel badly about odorous room. They explain it happens sometimes, but most people are used to it and usually it isn't as bad as our room was that night. I don't know about this, as no one mentioned to me this possibility when discussing Charleston. While biz people are leaving, everyone is sharing where they ate: Others loved Hanks, Jestines, Magnolias, Poogans Porch, Boathouse or something like that.

This trip was a tease.
Two days in Charleston is not enough.
Can't wait to return.
Excellent walking city, fine restaurants, galleries, shops, architecture, history, character, charm.
Wonderful warm and welcoming people.
Had I been choosing accomodations, I would stay at different hotel to have Charleston historic charm but overall this hotel is fine.

Now that I have point of reference I have much to plan:
I need to return asap to: eat at Poogans Porch, Mistral, Carolines, Jestines, Magnolias, the list is endless instead of eating chocolates and lemonade for lunch.
I need to go at night to the jazz I heard is at Charleston Place Hotel.
I need to go to the Plantations.
I need to take a carriage ride and an historic walking tour.
I need to see more of the historic houses and churches.
I need to see all the museums.
I need to go back also at Christmas because people told me the decorations and festivities are a treat.
I need to go back all seasons.
I plan on going back as soon as possible and often.
I decided many long weekends in Charleston would be nicer than one ten day stay (for me anyway).
I decided I might like to retire in the Carolinas.
My husband needs to return because he really didn't get to enjoy as much as he would.
I will be ordering holiday candy gifts from Kilwins and candles from Candle Lovers Delight on line and of course, my shoes from Rangoni.

Did I mention I love the people. Southern Hospitality plus.

Thanks all of you for your ideas in planning. Wish I could have done more.

For anyone who happens to read this who has not been -
GO. Just put a big note on your front door so you don't leave your walking shoes on the back hall bench.








escargot is offline  
Old Nov 10th, 2005, 03:14 PM
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great trip report. this gets me interested in going some time next year. did you like the weather this time of year?
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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 03:25 PM
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Thank you, Escargot, for bringing back fond memories of visiting Charleston a few years ago. I was, more or less, on my own also since my husband was there for business purposes. I loved it! I need to go back soon and explore more.
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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 04:17 PM
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Oh how I love Charleston!!! I hate to tell you, but it doesn't matter how many times you go, you still want to go back. It is a special place!! One of my favorite things to do is just to wander up and down the streets and look at all the beautiful old architecture.

This is about the perfect time of year to go, IMO. The only bad time to go really though is mid summer. It is very hot and humid there in the summer.

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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 04:28 PM
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escargot: So glad you enjoyed your first (of many I hope visits) to our city! I'm studying for the test to get my official tour guide license so the next time you're in town, let me know and I'd love to show you my Charleston.
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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 05:13 PM
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Hello escargot! I am so glad you had such a beautiful time in Charleston, but how could one not?

Now about SNOB, I had the rack of lamb also. I too felt it was the most divine rack of lamb I have ever eaten!! Your comments about dinner made me smile. Also made me wish I was eating at SNOB tonight!!

Charleston, the city, the people, are truly fantastic. I will never forget my visit there and hope I will be able to go there again..although I know there are so many other places I have never visited. But Charleston does seem to get into ones soul. I will never be able to thank OWJ for arranging our trip there. Beautiful memories.

Thank you for sharing your beautiful visit with us, many wishes that you two can return many times.
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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 05:26 PM
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Loved your trip report, Escargot. Charleston is definitely a "repeat" visit place. Thanks for taking the time to post.
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Old Nov 10th, 2005, 06:07 PM
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Mah9180: weather was lovely - high 70's and sunny every day. Don't know why, but warmer than I expected. Light sweater in evening all I needed. I probably should have said in my original post, I think this a great time to go -for me, anyway, I like a short early November vacation - it comes between wrapping up fall and before the holidays start cramping our schedules. Travelgirl67 I am putting in my travel file to contact you next time I go I'll be in touch.
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Old Nov 11th, 2005, 04:41 AM
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Wonderful trip report escargo! I just love reading first time visitors impressions of our lovely town!

One of the reasons Charleston stays so warm is because the water temps in the South Atlantic never really cool down that much so if the water is 68 degrees and the air is 55 degrees, it will feel much warmer. Also, we stay pretty warm until about January or February.

You must add to you list having a cocktail at the rooftops of The Vendue Inn and The Market Pavillion.

The Wentworth Mansion is a lovely place to stay on Wentworth. Wonderful view of the city from the cuppola.

Thank you for the wonderful trip report!
 
Old Nov 11th, 2005, 05:51 AM
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Hi escargot, Thanks for your wonderful report. DH and I also visited for couple of days and left wanting more! May these lovely places retain their charm and not be lost to our "lowest common denominator" culture!
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Old Nov 11th, 2005, 06:05 AM
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Hi GoTravel, I don't know about you but I have lost track of all the Fodorites that have spent wonderful days in beautiful Charleston thanks to you taking the time to "play tourist" one weekend and then writing your fabulous report. That was truly a gift to so many. I know it certainly added to much to OWJ and my time in Charleston. Have a relaxing weekend.
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Old Nov 14th, 2005, 11:34 AM
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I finally decided to just print out your great trip report as I'll be there on a quick trip this coming weekend! Thanks for putting most everything in one good long post!
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Old Nov 14th, 2005, 12:13 PM
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What a lovely thing to say and thank you very very much LoveItaly!
 
Old Nov 14th, 2005, 02:21 PM
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escargot,

I am so envious of your great short trip to Charleston! Seriously, great report with outstanding details.

Chuck
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Old Nov 14th, 2005, 02:28 PM
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escargot, what a super fab report you've done!!! You've made me so hungry and so wanting to leave for Charleston right now!!! I cannot go too many times ..........
 
Old Nov 15th, 2005, 12:47 PM
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I'm so glad some of you found the trip report interesting, being a fairly new poster (since early fall) I must say I was a bit hesitant about doing it, what to include, what not, etc., and having to compare with all the veteran fodorites who seem to know all the rules and ins and outs....but I enjoyed so many others and seeing different takes on a location, and wanted to share and thank all whose previous posts had helped in my planning. So many here also piped in and helped me plan our next trip to Switzerland in December, and now I will be sure to take notes to share with fellow posters.
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Old Nov 15th, 2005, 01:44 PM
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good report. Now, I've never
been to this city.

Are there any stunning architectures
to look at? (Interior and exterior)

I'm not a history buff, but enjoyed
the library of congress palatial
interiors.

Are we likely to see this type of
stuff?

What are the top churches to visit?

THANKS!!
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Old Nov 15th, 2005, 02:32 PM
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we love architecture and it was all gorgeous - old, historic, - interiors and exteriors - the homes, the churches. I only visited the homes and churches I mentioned, but there were many more to choose from. Even the custom house is lovely from outside. And everyone raves about the plantations, which I didn't have time to see. Go Travel did an excellent trip report that is referenced in this thread that is chock full of info - my neighbor who is an architect lists Charleston as one of her all time favorite places for just that reason - the history and styles are worth the trip. If you go on line and google Charleston, general trip information, churches, historic homes, and you can see some of them and read about them to see which ones would interest you - which is what I did also - or get AAA to send you some brochures if you like in hand reading better. It's a historic city, but you don't need to be a history buff to fall in love with the architecture and culture. It isn't ornate, in the sense you might think, but beautifully crafted and some unusual architecture you won't see in newer cities. After my albeit short visit I would tell anyone who likes architecture, food, people, quaint and welcoming walking cities, to go go go !
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Old Nov 15th, 2005, 05:38 PM
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So glad you had a wonderful time! Yes, the paper mill, Wesvaco, is often a stinky problem. Most people are used to it blowing in their direction occasionally!

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