Nothing makes more of an impression upon entering a home than a well-manicured staircase. In fact, the front half of many homes is designed around the staircase and foyer.
“Because it’s usually the first thing that someone sees, a staircase makes an important architectural statement about a home,” says Pat Johnson, a customer service representative for the Bedford Park-based Home Depot and a custom mill worker.
In addition to being of architectural significance, staircases are also a functional component of a home, one that is well-used and often abused.
That’s why many do-it-yourselfers hope to one day refinish their staircases. Such a project, however, is a bit trickier than it seems, considering that certain sections of a staircase, such as the spindles, are painted, while other sections, such as the treads of the stairs, generally are stained and varnished.
With that in mind, here are a few tips on refinishing a staircase.
Stripping and sanding
The first step is to strip the staircase of any existing coats of paint or finishes. The most efficient approach to that, says Johnson, is to strip the staircase in place.
“It’s best not to take the staircase apart because that’s quite a job and people tend to tear the wood up when disassembling a staircase,” he says. “The only reason I would take a staircase apart is if, say, the rails are already loose and the staircase needs work.”
Begin the stripping job with a heat gun, which works best at removing several layers of paint at once. Protect the floors and carpet below with drop cloths and be careful not to scorch the wood.
Then remove any remaining paint or finish with a chemical stripper, using a gel type that will remain in place on vertical surfaces.
Finally, complete the stripping process by hand-sanding away any remaining paint or varnish with an 80- to 120-grit sandpaper.
This is also the time to patch or repair any broken parts. Loose spindles can be tightened by injecting glue into the area where they meet the handrail. You can also secure the loose spindle by sinking–on an angle–a small finishing nail or screw up into the top of the spindle and into the handrail. Drive the head of the nail or screw below the surface of the handrail and then cover the top of it with wood filler.
Stair squeaks, which occur when loose pieces rub together, can also be silenced. First, locate the squeak, often found on the tread of a stair. Then, drive a finishing nail or finishing screw into the riser to retighten the tread.
Pre-drill a hole to guide the nail or screw in just below the top of the tread. Then used a wood filler to hide it.
Next, protect the unfinished wood treads of the stairs by covering them with butcher or craft paper, which can be stapled into the staircase. “If this is one of those projects that is going to spread out over many weekends, I would cover the treads with a thicker rosin paper,” advises Johnson.
Staining
Next, move on to the staining and varnishing process.
“You definitely want to do all the staining and varnishing first in that it’s easier to get paint off varnish versus varnish off paint,” says Johnson.
To protect areas of the staircase that you plan to paint–say, risers or spindles–use painter’s tape and craft paper.
If you have elaborately carved spindles or posts, and plan to use a combination of stain and paint on the pieces, this will also require some careful plotting and taping, says Johnson.
The type of stain and topcoat applied to the staircase should be chosen carefully.
Stains come in a variety of colors and each produces a different look on different types of wood–oak, pine, maple, birch, etc. Hence, you should test a stain by applying it on a fairly unnoticeable area of the staircase.
If you’re trying to match an existing stain, you can have a stain custom-mixed.
When applying, be careful not to place too much stain on vertical pieces such as the posts at top and bottom of the staircase and the spindles. “You don’t want it to drip,” says Johnson.
On rounded objects such as spindles, do not apply the paint vertically.
On flat objects, such as treads or risers, apply the stain in the direction of the wood grain.
A rule of thumb for staircases is to work on every other step to make the staircase accessible during the refinishing process. That, of course, is going to double the amount of time it takes to finish the job.
Next, coat the stained pieces with at least two coats of varnish or shellac. If the treads will remain bare, Johnson recommends four coats of finish.
“You really want to protect the treads because they will get the most abuse from foot traffic,” says Johnson. “And once the varnish wears off and the stain is damaged by use, then you’ll need to restain the entire tread or treads. You just can’t patch an area of the tread.”
Two coats of finish are sufficient for stairs that will be carpeted.
Just as important as choosing the right stain is choosing the right topcoat, or stain or varnish.
For example, you can choose between a varnish or a shellac, and there are several different degrees of sheen to each.
Flat varnish dries as its name suggests, with a flat, dry look. It also offers the least protection to wood, so it’s not the best coating for a staircase.
A satin finish varnish offers a bit of sheen, and is quite common for staircases and woodwork, especially those with dark stains. The higher the sheen, the darker or wetter the wood will look.
A semi-gloss varnish, meanwhile, has a fairly noticeable sheen with a slightly yellow glow to it. It is common with unpainted woodwork in older homes.
When applying the varnish or shellac, allow at least 24 hours between coats. Also, give the wood a light sanding between coats with a fine grit sandpaper to ensure that the topcoat adheres correctly.
Apply the first coat of varnish or shellac in the same direction, in sweeps no wider than the width of the brush. Try not to overlap strokes.
With the second coat, apply the varnish or shellac in the opposite direction from the first coat, making sure to fill in any bare spots.
Painting
Once the top coat of varnish or shellac is thoroughly dry, you can begin painting the unfinished pieces.
Start by protecting the stained and varnished pieces with painters tape and craft paper. Avoid covering the finished wood with masking tape, however, because the tape will pull off some of the new finish.
When painting vertical pieces, use light, even coats to avoid dripping. “Brush out the paint on vertical pieces,” says Johnson. “Don’t glob it on.”
After the first coat dries, apply the second coat and allow that to thoroughly dry before removing the covering from the stained and varnished section.
Finally, you’ll need to do some touching up. Paint drippings on varnished wood, for example, can be removed with a careful light sanding.
