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Sri Ganesh Cuisine

(3 forks)

837 E. Roosevelt Rd., Lombard

630-620-9175

Hours: Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun., lunch buffet: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tues.-Fri., lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Sat.-Sun.

Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V

Noise factor: Conversation friendly

First impressions

This tidy spot is located in a nondescript suburban strip mall. On the night we visited, the front window was hung with lights in celebration of the holiday of Diwali.

On the plate

The expansive all-vegetarian menu features Northern and Southern Indian dishes. Dosai–giant, crispy crepes rolled around a variety of fillings–are a specialty and come in 13 varieties. Fifteen-plus Northern Indian-style curries include everything from chana masala (chickpeas and potatoes in a tomato sauce) and sag paneer (pureed spinach with chunks of unripened, mild white cheese) to the exotic-sounding banana curry. Another specialty is the thali platter, a 12-item dinner that includes breads, rasam (a spicy tomato-based soup with cilantro, tamarind and rice), an appetizer and two curries selected by the chef, and dessert, usually a variation of kheer (rice pudding). Dishes are served with any of five or six chutneys: tamarind-banana, cilantro, coconut, lentil and tomato.

At your service

The team of friendly guys that attended our table urged us to take our time–even though we showed up less than an hour before closing on a Friday night. Servers respectfully warned us when we ordered super-spicy dishes. And when our party of three ordered enough food to feed an army, they tried to talk us out of ordering more.

Second helpings

Popular starters included the rasam, a fiery tomato-based soup with rice and cilantro, and the Ganesh appetizer combination plate: papad (crisp flatbread), breaded and fried slices of eggplant, and fried potato and pea patties. The masala dosai sported a generous amount of its potato and onion filling. Chana masala (chickpeas and potatoes in a tomato sauce) was a top-notch version of the dish. Save room for dessert: The carrot halwa (shredded, sweetened carrots with cashews, peanuts and raisins) and the ras malai (cubes of paneer served in a goblet of cardamom-scented condensed milk) were both worth the extra calories.

Take a pass

The chef went a little overboard with the cardamom in the vegetable briyani rice, making it almost overwhelmingly perfumey. Also, skip the pesarat uthappam, veggie pancakes that looked just like the Western breakfast variety, only vivid green and studded with chopped veggies.

Thirst quenchers

In addition to the usual fountain drinks, you’ll find a host of creamy beverages perfect for putting out fires: lassis (the chilled yogurt drink, available in mango, sweet and salty flavors), rose milk, mango shakes, mango juice and sweet coconut water served in the shell with a straw poked through the top. BYOB is allowed.

Price range

Appetizers, $1.95-$6.45; soups, $2.45-$2.95; breads and sides, $1-$4.95; entrees $4.45-$8.95; lunch buffet, $6.95; desserts, $2.45-$3.45; beverages $1.25-$3.25.

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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune Co. staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.

Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good