The verdict on spring: `No fireworks, just great clothes.` But who`s complaining?
”There are no fireworks out there. Just some great-looking clothes.”
That`s the way a leading retailer assessed next spring`s fashions, in a tone almost tinged with a sad note. A fashion editor agreed.
Frankly, ”no fireworks, just great clothes” doesn`t sound all that bad, does it? What it means is no fashion revolutions, no major upheavals, with designers simply doing clothes that they hope will appeal to American women and–bottom line–will sell. That means they have to have something going for them.
However, a lot of what they`ve designed probably won`t sell because it`s too tight, too short, too skimpy, too lacking in individuality. And a lot of what they`ve designed probably will sell very well because it`s (choose one of the following) sexier than anything they already own, cleaner and more uncluttered than most things they already own.
Among the best spring collections that are bound to sell more than a few items:
Donna Karan: One of the finest collections of the two weeks of spring showings in New York finally elicited words such as ”wonderful” and
”divine” and ”fabulous”–and deserved them.
Karan proved again that she understands what modern, self-confident women want: sleek clothes with a glamorous twist, sexy clothes that are not call-girl clothes, clothes that make a woman feel so good she doesn`t want to take them off.
Karan is continuing with the wardrobe-building theme that she initiated with her first fall collection: Her basic is now navy instead of black, with neutral additions in charcoal and silvery grays, a beige and taupe, which incidentally should all work with black; her original wrap-and-tie skirt theme now also appears in jackets, a dress and a jumpsuit. There also is a new side- draped skirt, great wrap-and-tie jackets, long circle and pleated skirts, crossover haltered tops and even a bolero jacket that says ”sophisticated”
instead of ”ole.”
And, of course, there are the essential jersey body suits in a grand variety of neckline versions, this time including a tank style. And, for extra oomph, there are ivory sequins (in a bra worn with a matching bolero) and swirly earrings, bracelets, pins and belts in a brushed or matte silver by Robert Lee Morris for Karan.
Bill Blass: Triple strands of pearls, pristine white gloves, natural-colored hosiery, spectator shoes by day and dyed-to-match silk pumps by night set the tone for one of the neatest collections Blass has done for a while. His silhouettes are lean, shapely and short and not at all gussied up with frivolous details.
Highlights: sweater sets for day and night; Peter Pan collars; some of the best Glen-plaid and houndstooth-checked suits seen anywhere, especially those with cropped and collarless jackets; lots of pants–pajama-styled taffeta by night and tailored by day–and lots and lots of color, especially for night.
His signature silk gowns show stitched-down tucking, sometimes in three colors, such as turquoise and gold with orange. Blass is known for having his finger on the pulse of what ”the gals,” as he calls his rich clients, want; so no fuss, no frills is the gospel here.
Oscar de la Renta: Even here, ruffles, ruching and ballgown skirts are kept to a minimum as De la Renta focuses on jerseys and sweaters and pretty-little-nothing pastel silks with just a touch of draping, a smidge of shirring, a bit of glitter.
Some of his beauties include cashmere sweaters worn with sarong-styled crepe long skirts with discreet diamantes in the right places, particularly in navy and white; and a rather subtle use of lace in a gown with a bodice of sheer black with the pink silk crepe skirt banded in lace only across the hipline.
However, such restraint was not totally in check: When the background music changed from silky-smooth Sinatra to overwhelming opera, polka dots and too much re-embroidered lace hit the runway. But memories of those sweaters lingered on.
Calvin Klein: Sweaters indeed have become the byword for spring, and perhaps nowhere stronger than here, where Klein says his first love revolves around knits, particularly silk sweater sets, linen jersey (yes, linen jersey, the filmiest jersey anywhere) and a silk jersey that is perfect for a summerweight turtleneck.
His philosophy: ”There is a luxury about ease. Clothes are slim but never so tight that a woman is uncomfortable. There are short skirts, but longer is the statement of the collection. The chicest shoes are flats. My favorite things are silk or cashmere knits, a wool that is so light it feels like silk.”
There are some sophisticated colors (a subtle jade family, a mauvey-to-purple, some roses), but Calvin is most Calvin with taupe, black, navy, white –always classy and unadorned.
Ralph Lauren: One of the kings of classy classics has added a new dimension that he calls ”sexy” but has nothing to do with cheap-looking or tight-fitting clothes.
”Refined” is a nice-sounding word, and it seems to be the right one for the very soft crepe de chines that he uses in long fluid skirts, in dresses such as halter-necked versions for sun or evening, in off-the-shoulder blouses and even houndstooth-checked pleated pants teamed with cashmere sweaters.
Of course, Lauren still has his double-breasted blazers that are as crisp as ever, but there is a softness in his collection that is not inspired by old-fashioned Victorian lace but by the most fluid of silks.
Perry Ellis: Though he uses silk in his white, spaghetti-strapped wrap tops and black cropped pants for evening, linen continues to be a summer favorite with Ellis, especially in a version that has an almost silky, iridescent sheen. Fans who have always loved his big jackets and his wide pants that are a cross between culottes and trousers will love his collection for spring, which is pure Ellis in mood, even though narrower than the oversized slouchy look that was once his signature.
There are some Oriental inspirations here: blue patterns based on porcelains, obi sashes, stylized florals. But not to worry: The clothes do not call for coolie hats. They are too clean and modern for that. Sweater collectors will want to add his butterfly patterns.
Anne Klein: Blazer collectors will find more of their favorites here, where Louis Dell`Olio carries on the tradition of broad-shouldered jackets that can team with pleated pants or the other house staple, the sarong skirt. One of the best of the blazers is in the silvery bamboo pattern, but there are also collarless jackets–one of the strongest trends of the season–in both hip-covering fitted versions and the newer small jacket that ends at the waist and looks right with either long or cropped trousers.
Dell`Olio includes a circle skirt or two, which is certainly a silhouette to watch, in his red and black jersey group that is skinny–but not nearly as skinny as his gray knit minidress with the cutaway shoulderline. This is the hottest number in the large spring collection, but some of the cleanest and sharpest are from the silver evening group, especially the brushed silver sequin T-shirt that looks terrific with narrow silk trousers.
(Sequins for summer? But of course, right along with turtlenecks and gold lame, no longer relegated to cold weather wear.)
