THE ABACUS, 2619 N. Clark St., 477-5251. Chinese. No longer the pioneer in regional cooking that it was when it opened, this cozy restaurant still serves varied, largely dependable food at a decent price. Recommended:
Szechwan pickled vegetables, agar agar salad, vegetable crepe, Hunan orange beef, shrimp and pea pods, Szechwan tofu with pork and peppercorns, Szechwan noodles, sugar spun banana. Hours: Dinner 5-11 p.m. Sun.-Thurs., 5
p.m.-midnight Fri.-Sat., brunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. Reservations: Accepted. (SS)
CHINESE TEA HOUSE, 6248 W. North Ave., 237-3073. Mandarin. The restaurant that introduced Chicago to Mandarin cuisine still cooks delightfully good food, including the best moo shu pork in town. Recommended: Pot stickers, shrimp toast, hot and sour soup, beef in garlic sauce, ma poo bean curd, ants on a tree, Peking duck. Hours: noon-10 p.m. Sun., Mon., Wed., Thurs., to 11 p.m. Fri. and 4-11 p.m. Sat.; closed Tues. Price range: Moderate. Credit Cards: M, V. Reservations: Accepted. (MK)
DEE`S, 2010 N. Sheffield Ave., 477-1500. Chinese. Despite a sameness to the dishes, Dee`s is a far better than average neighborhood Chinese restaurant filled with warmth and friendliness. Recommended: steamed dumplings, pot stickers, garlic chicken, Mongolian beef, moo shu dishes. Hours: 4:30-11 p.m. daily. Price range: moderate. Credit cards: A. Reservations: Accepted. (PAC)
DONG HUNG VIEN, 7136 N. Milwaukee Ave., Niles, 647-8419. Cantonese. Current enthusiasms for Northern Chinese cooking have not dimmed the appeal of this fine Cantonese restaurant. Unusual ingredients such as squab and abalone star in the long menu. Big portions and moderate prices make the consistently fresh and imaginatively prepared dishes even more attractive. Recommended:
Charlie`s angel treat, minced squab with lettuce, braised duck stuffed with mashed taro, sweet and sour pork. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 2-11 p.m. Sat.-Sun. Price range: Moderate. Credit cards: M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. (MK)
HOUSE OF HUNAN Michigan Avenue, 535 N. Michigan, 329-9494. Chinese. The first of the great Michigan Avenue Chinese restaurants, this place taught many the pleasures of Hunan-style cooking. Its menu keeps evolving and new dishes uncover new delights. Presentation of house specialties makes the beholding as important as the eating. Recommended: pot stickers, hacked chicken, beef and scallops, pike with pine nuts, Hunan beef, spicy bean curd. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. daily. Price range: moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M. V. (Staff)
IMPERIAL CATHAY, 2 E. Delaware Pl., 642-0626. Chinese. This restaurant merits three stars for its introduction of the Mongolian barbecue–a good, entertaining innovation at a reasonable price–with the reservation that service and some regular menu offerings still need major improvements. Recommended: Mongolian barbecue, sauteed dumplings, hacked chicken, ginger duck. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Sun.-Thurs. and to 11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Price range: Moderately exprensive. Credit cards: A, D, M, V. Reservations:
Accepted. (PAC)
SZECHWAN HOUSE, 600 N. Michigan, 642-3900. Chinese. One of Chicago`s most elegant Chinese restaurants, Szechwan House serves food that surpasses even its decor. Everything moves smoothly as waiters race from table to table bringing course after course. Lunch features a superb, reasonably priced buffet loaded with specialties. Recommended: Szechwan snails, sesame chicken, Taiwan oyster soup, yu hsiang shrimp, governor`s chicken, one fish two flavors. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. daily. Price range: moderately expensive. Credit cards: A, C, D, M, V. (Staff)
