(4 forks)
7329 Lemont Rd., Downers Grove. 630-663-8803
Hours: Noon-9 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., noon-9:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; noon-8 p.m. Sunday.
Closed Mon.
Credit Cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation-friendly.
First impressions
You’d never know you were in a shopping center when you walk into this elegantly appointed Philippine restaurant with track lighting, lovely tropical plants, an attractive waiting area with an overstuffed couch next to the host desk and about 15 handsome tables in the dining room.
On the plate
Philippine cuisine with a definite nouvelle touch, which the owners call “a Euro-Asian dining adventure.” Forget the heavy, hearty, oily stuff you might have tried elsewhere in the name of Philippine food; these presentations are light, complex and gorgeous.
At your service
The family staff is friendly, knowledgeable and very helpful. They even entertained my wandering 2-year-old son.
Second helpings
Kanilaw, the colorful, lime-drenched and ginger-laced seafood cocktail served in a big martini glass with a couple of saltines, was marvelous. The cigarillo-size Shanghai lumpia with a piquant dipping sauce wiped away memories of their greasier cousins. The caldereta, a rich, tender, slightly spicy beef stew with potatoes and red peppers, was wonderful, as was the crisp, flavorful and nearly greaseless fried tilapia with mango salsa. Crackling lechon (roast pork) with a tangy vinaigrette was properly fatty and delicious. And the pancit guisado featured tasty cellophane noodles with meat and vegetables but none of the usual oiliness. We also loved the desserts: a crisp plantain and jackfruit egg roll with vanilla ice cream and nuts as well as a plate of three amazing coconut puddings, one very sweet, one ricey and another made with purple sweet potato.
Take a pass
Despite the beautiful presentation and terrific flavor of the whole grilled squid stuffed with green onions, it was overcooked and chewy.
Thirst quenchers
In addition to soda and tropical juices, Cebu serves wine and beer including San Miguel. We were intrigued by a soft drink called sago that tastes like a non-carbonated cream soda with large but non-chewy tapioca balls at the bottom of the glass.
Extras
Cebu offers lunch specials Tuesday through Friday that include soup, steamed rice, Shanghai lumpia and smallish entrees such as caldereta and adobo chicken for $5.95.
Price range
Appetizers, $4.50-$12.95; entrees, $6.95-$10.95; accompaniments, $1.50- $7.95; desserts, $4.75; drinks, $1.25-$3.75.
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Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
