Waxing a Chain

gopher://draco.acs.uci.edu.:1071/00/faq.jun96

Since the FAQ contains only a cursory description of chain waxing, here's how
one cyclist does it.

1) Remove the chain from the bike. This is done by "breaking" the chain with
a chain tool, a device for pushing out a single pin. I use a Cyclo Rivoli
gold chain tool. The gold tool has small raised pads on the "anvil" portion
of the tool so that the flared sideplates of Hyperglide chains won't get
flattened in the process. Push the pin out only far enough to allow the link
to be snapped apart with a little effort. Pushing the pin out flush with the
sideplate means you'll need extra hands to hold the link in place while
pushing the pin back in. After removing the chain I put a wire shower curtain
hanger (you know, the ones that come with a pair of Kool Kovers) through the
roller end of the broken link. This makes a handy grip for swinging the chain
around (about which more later), and keeps the roller from getting lost.

2) Thoroughly clean the chain. I first flush the chain with HOT water to
remove the old wax. While my tap water is hot enough to melt wax, sometimes I
heat up a tea kettle full for extra quick melting. I then scrub the chain
with a stiff toothbrush and Simple Green. This takes ten minutes or so as I
systematically scrub every link. Then I flush again with hot water and dry by
swinging the chain around by the hanger; sort of centrifuge the water off. I
go outdoors for this step.

3) Melt a pan of wax. I have a double boiler I bought just for chain waxing.
I use regular supermarket bought paraffin. I put two cakes (8 oz.) into the
pan and add a couple of teaspoons of Mechanics Engine Treatment & Coating
with Teflon. I store my wax in the pan and before each use I remove the solid
puck of wax. From the last use any contaminants will have settled to the
bottom, forming a thin dark layer. I scrape this off with the edge of a
kitchen knife before re-melting.

4) Cook the chain. I cook my chain for 45 minutes, a purely arbitrary length
of time. I stir occasionally to allow the molten wax to flow into the
rollers. Dipping the chain in the wax will only succeed in coating the
outside, not getting the wax where it needs to be. The chain needs to get as
hot as the wax.

5) Remove and wipe the chain. I carry the hot double boiler out to the garage
and position it under a hook in the ceiling. I then hang the chain by the
curtain hanger allowing the wax to drip back into the pan. Working quickly I
wipe the still hot chain down with a clean rag to remove any excess wax.

5a) (Optional) Every couple of waxings I remove the chainrings, cogs, and
rear derailleur wheels from the bike and give them the toothbrush and Simple
Green treatment. Before replacing the cogs (only) I spray each one with WD-40
(for rust proofing) and wipe with paper towels.

6) Replace the chain. Thread the chain back through the toothed bits and snap
the link back together. I push the pin back in until it just protrudes from
the far sideplate. I then free up the link by pressing the pin a little
further into the near sideplate using the appropriate part of the chain tool.

Just a little editorial comment about Shimano's black pin; I've broken a
Shimano Dura-Ace Hyperglide chain too many times to count, and have never
replaced a pin. I just keep pushing the old ones back in and that works for
me. As of this writing, I have 16,845.5 miles on that chain and have used wax
from the day I got the bike. In fact before its first ride I removed the
chain, cleaned, and waxed it.

I've been asked how often I wax. I guess about every 400 to 500 miles,
depending upon conditions. One ride in the rain is enough to require
rewaxing, but then I rarely ride in the rain because I hate it so much. Your
waxed chain will tell you by its squeeking when it needs to be rewaxed.

--
jeve...@wwa.com (John V. Everett)

Is there any truth to this?
--
Rich Kasperowski Cambridge, MA, USA
Home: kaspe...@acm.org
Work: ri...@concentra.com +1-617-229-4367

Regards

Chris Crawford

We (at Larry and Jeffs in Manhattan) used to do this, but the time
involved made the cost to the customer a bit prohibitive. We stopped a
few years back. The market just wouldn't bear the $15 we had to charge
when one could get a good cheap chain for that price.

Of course, I still wax my own. But not on shop time. ;)

Yes, paraffin is what the British call Kerosene. Check a dictionary.
It is confusing.
--

Richard Estock (est...@amenti.rutgers.edu)

Indeed, it is the other was round!

--
R.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Richard Brockie B.Sc.(Hons), The tall blond one.
Adaptive Optics Freak. Email: R.Br...@roe.ac.uk
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= http://www.roe.ac.uk/rmbwww =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Interesting.
As a card-carrying Brit, I can at least confirm that
in everyday life, we refer to your "kerosene" as "paraffin",

"Paraffin wax", as in candles (non-religious variety)
is known, but is not commonly sold here in supermarkets in
blocks, as it is apparently in the US.

I have heard of people using kerosene to clean chains,
and this was supposed to be a good thing, as it leaves
a slightly oily residue. However, I don't think it would be
enough of a lubricant on its own.

I _have_ used paraffin wax (obtained from domestic candles)
to lubricate a chain, but gave up after learning that it
did not stand up to rain too well.

Mike.E...@rl.ac.uk

Yes, I guess it is. Never quite thought about it that way, but I don't
approach chain waxing as a chore; it's more like a tribal ritual. I enjoy the
remarks I get, like, "your chain looks clean enough to eat off." To this one
I always respond, "Yeah, but I wouldn't let you; you'd get crumbs on it."

Not only that but a surprisingly large number of american men wear
suspenders.

-Fitz

I don't know if it has been said, but the safest way to melt wax is to put the
can in a pan of water, I use a Colmen stove. The wax will never get much above
100oC so it will not be in danger of igniting.

ga...@atcon.com
Team OS/2 N.S.
Canada