Former Chef of La Chassagnette now in Arles
Mar 19th, 2006, 04:07 AM
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Former Chef of La Chassagnette now in Arles
Jean-Luc has opened his own restaurant, L,atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel, in the center of Arles, after leaving La Chassagnette (in the Camargue) in November.
Just off the walking street rue de la Republique, L'atelier is small and minimalist in black and white with a few red accents.... There are thirty-six seats (comfortable leather chairs and banquette seating). There will be some tables outside once the weather warms up. Open for just four days, we had dinner there last night. Jean-Luc is maintaining his completely organic "tapas" style.
We began with one of our favorites... delicious chick-pea and garlic spread served with a small loaf of his freshly baked bread while we enjoyed a first glass of a red 'vin de sable' from the Aigues Mortes region.
This was followed by a bruschetta with grilled sardines, fresh mushrooms and roquette, drizzled with olive oil.
Tempura fried young salsify was next, served with two dipping sauces; one spicey and the other sweet.
And the courses continued -
Two small bowls of slices of small squid and strips of fennel cooked "a la plancha"... tender, delicious and slightly hot with red pepper.
Two small coffee cups ....filled with a wonderful creamy red pepper mousse, accompanied by thin, tiny loaves of tomato and parmesan bread.
Long thin tubes of crispy phyllo pastry, filled with mashed, seasoned butternut squash. This was accompanied by a "dip" served in a small glass - coconut mousse. Absolutely divine (I could have eaten many more of these).
A beaker was the vessel for the cauliflower cream soup that came next.... sipped from a straw and served with parmesan tuiles.
Small square bowls filled with thin slices of "confit" young beets with an eggless mayonnaise (fromage frais was one of the ingredients). The beets were packed in salt for six hours (hence the "confit"
then rinsed well, dried and thinly sliced. They were delicious.
A simple, yet beautifully cooked small slice of fish, balanced on a quenelle of olive oil mashed potato.
Thin slices of roast saddle of lamb served on a bed of assorted roasted vegetables (jerusalem artichokes, young leeks, fennel, etc.)
And then it was time for dessert... or should I say, desserts.
Miniature square dishes of cubed fresh pineapple with shredded basil
Tiny bowls of green anise mousse topped with carrot foam
Glasses of fig tiramisu
A small chocolate filled beignet balanced in a narrow glass over a sweet syrup
A quenelle of liquorice ice cream
A small chocolate fondant cake topped with a dark crunchy tuile
L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel
7, rue des Carmes
Arles
Tel: 04 90 91 07 69
website: www.rabanel.com
Reservations are a must, especially in the evenings
There are several different options at lunch, including the full menu for 37 euro,
Entree with wine - 13 euro (I forgot to write down the rest of the options)
Dinner is the full menu, priced at 50 euro
They have a complete wine list.
Now a short bit about the changes to come at La Chassagnette....
it has been undergoing changes during the winter, to the tune of over 2 million euro.
Everything has been ripped out and changed (Cigalechanta will be distressed to learn that the leaf wall is gone - to be replaced by some sort of wall of growing vegetables apparently). The new 26 year old chef has worked at Ducasse, but no one is quite sure what type of food is going to be served. When it reopens at the end of April, I'll let you all know.
Patricia
Just off the walking street rue de la Republique, L'atelier is small and minimalist in black and white with a few red accents.... There are thirty-six seats (comfortable leather chairs and banquette seating). There will be some tables outside once the weather warms up. Open for just four days, we had dinner there last night. Jean-Luc is maintaining his completely organic "tapas" style.
We began with one of our favorites... delicious chick-pea and garlic spread served with a small loaf of his freshly baked bread while we enjoyed a first glass of a red 'vin de sable' from the Aigues Mortes region.
This was followed by a bruschetta with grilled sardines, fresh mushrooms and roquette, drizzled with olive oil.
Tempura fried young salsify was next, served with two dipping sauces; one spicey and the other sweet.
And the courses continued -
Two small bowls of slices of small squid and strips of fennel cooked "a la plancha"... tender, delicious and slightly hot with red pepper.
Two small coffee cups ....filled with a wonderful creamy red pepper mousse, accompanied by thin, tiny loaves of tomato and parmesan bread.
Long thin tubes of crispy phyllo pastry, filled with mashed, seasoned butternut squash. This was accompanied by a "dip" served in a small glass - coconut mousse. Absolutely divine (I could have eaten many more of these).
A beaker was the vessel for the cauliflower cream soup that came next.... sipped from a straw and served with parmesan tuiles.
Small square bowls filled with thin slices of "confit" young beets with an eggless mayonnaise (fromage frais was one of the ingredients). The beets were packed in salt for six hours (hence the "confit"
then rinsed well, dried and thinly sliced. They were delicious.A simple, yet beautifully cooked small slice of fish, balanced on a quenelle of olive oil mashed potato.
Thin slices of roast saddle of lamb served on a bed of assorted roasted vegetables (jerusalem artichokes, young leeks, fennel, etc.)
And then it was time for dessert... or should I say, desserts.
Miniature square dishes of cubed fresh pineapple with shredded basil
Tiny bowls of green anise mousse topped with carrot foam
Glasses of fig tiramisu
A small chocolate filled beignet balanced in a narrow glass over a sweet syrup
A quenelle of liquorice ice cream
A small chocolate fondant cake topped with a dark crunchy tuile
L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel
7, rue des Carmes
Arles
Tel: 04 90 91 07 69
website: www.rabanel.com
Reservations are a must, especially in the evenings
There are several different options at lunch, including the full menu for 37 euro,
Entree with wine - 13 euro (I forgot to write down the rest of the options)
Dinner is the full menu, priced at 50 euro
They have a complete wine list.
Now a short bit about the changes to come at La Chassagnette....
it has been undergoing changes during the winter, to the tune of over 2 million euro.
Everything has been ripped out and changed (Cigalechanta will be distressed to learn that the leaf wall is gone - to be replaced by some sort of wall of growing vegetables apparently). The new 26 year old chef has worked at Ducasse, but no one is quite sure what type of food is going to be served. When it reopens at the end of April, I'll let you all know.
Patricia
Mar 19th, 2006, 04:12 AM
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PB,
I was waiting!! You have transported me back to Chassagnette just reading the menu...I am so happy to see he kept what I had loved so much...including the prices which I felt were a bargain for what he offered....can't wait for October!!! Thank you for sharing!!
I was waiting!! You have transported me back to Chassagnette just reading the menu...I am so happy to see he kept what I had loved so much...including the prices which I felt were a bargain for what he offered....can't wait for October!!! Thank you for sharing!!
Mar 19th, 2006, 04:47 AM
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Wow! This is why this forum is the best! Thank you so much for transporting me back to La Chassagnette. I am so grateful I was able to experience it last year (thanks to Fodorite recommendations) and see the leaf wall before the transformation.
Mar 19th, 2006, 06:49 AM
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Patricia - Thank you for the information. I recall an earlier post where you alerted us to this opening. We read your tapas descriptions and drooled.
I have just phoned and reserved for May 5 when we will be in St Remy. Thank you.
I have just phoned and reserved for May 5 when we will be in St Remy. Thank you.
Mar 19th, 2006, 07:37 AM
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For those who missed the wall. It was dried bay leaves under chicken wire. The place was decorated by the woman who runs the Nord Pinus in Arles. I'll miss it and the passing butterflys hovering over the garden.
Mar 19th, 2006, 09:49 AM
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Thanks Patricia for the fabulous descriptions and info. We're not big foodies but could become so after that "pep talk". We're headed back to provence in May and will have to make plans. I was unable to get much info out of the website-bad french on my part--What days are they open? I'll have to give them a call soon. Thanks again for sharing. Paul
Mar 19th, 2006, 11:21 AM
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Paul...
The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner except Sunday and Monday.
From what I could tell, the website isn't finished yet... and looking at it, I believe that's true !
Patricia
The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner except Sunday and Monday.
From what I could tell, the website isn't finished yet... and looking at it, I believe that's true !
Patricia
Mar 19th, 2006, 02:23 PM
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Patricia - I phoned at 4:30 PM(France time)on a Sunday and the phone was answered. Of course if they had just opened it is certainly possible that someone was simply working there today. For those timid to call for reservations, the gentleman quickly switched to English rather than deal with my horrendous French(my high school French teacher used to do the same thing).
Mar 20th, 2006, 12:28 AM
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Robjame...
Yes, they're still working on various aspects of the restaurant, so I'm not surprised that someone answered. That someone was probably Sebastian - maitre d', sommelier... all around nice guy.
He speaks good English and I'm sure Jean-Luc does as well, although we always converse in French.
I forgot to mention one interesting thing - when you walk up to the front door there is a window looking into the restaurant they've set up a screen connected to a webcam in the kitchen, so you can watch them working...and it can tempt you even more into coming inside.
Patricia
Yes, they're still working on various aspects of the restaurant, so I'm not surprised that someone answered. That someone was probably Sebastian - maitre d', sommelier... all around nice guy.
He speaks good English and I'm sure Jean-Luc does as well, although we always converse in French.
I forgot to mention one interesting thing - when you walk up to the front door there is a window looking into the restaurant they've set up a screen connected to a webcam in the kitchen, so you can watch them working...and it can tempt you even more into coming inside.
Patricia
Mar 21st, 2006, 09:03 AM
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On Patricia's recommendation we decided to celebrate my b-day at L'Atalier today. It was everything advertised and then some.
We each had the 37 euro "tapas" menu - my wife had taureau for the main course and I had a filet de rouget. It was all outstanding - very fresh, excellent ingredients and beautifully presented. Plus the atmosphere is very relaxed and the service impeccable.
We'd never made it to La Chassagnette, regretably, so I can't compare - but having tried many, many places in the area, I can say that this one is way up there and an amazing value for the price. The dinner menu, by the way, is 50 euros - which would still be a great deal for the quality and originality.
The place was filled with mostly locals as far as I could tell, and reservations will no doubt be a very good idea.
The restaurant is closed for dinner Sunday and Monday all day.
-Kevin
p.s.: the video hook-up is a great touch !
We each had the 37 euro "tapas" menu - my wife had taureau for the main course and I had a filet de rouget. It was all outstanding - very fresh, excellent ingredients and beautifully presented. Plus the atmosphere is very relaxed and the service impeccable.
We'd never made it to La Chassagnette, regretably, so I can't compare - but having tried many, many places in the area, I can say that this one is way up there and an amazing value for the price. The dinner menu, by the way, is 50 euros - which would still be a great deal for the quality and originality.
The place was filled with mostly locals as far as I could tell, and reservations will no doubt be a very good idea.
The restaurant is closed for dinner Sunday and Monday all day.
-Kevin
p.s.: the video hook-up is a great touch !
Apr 10th, 2006, 03:23 PM
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Patricia,
Mixed emotions regarding the changes at La Chassagnette, but how cool to have Jean-Luc open a place in Arles.
This will instantly put Arles on the dining map.
BTW,loved your food descriptions - close to dinner time here!
Regards,
Joe G.
Mixed emotions regarding the changes at La Chassagnette, but how cool to have Jean-Luc open a place in Arles.
This will instantly put Arles on the dining map.
BTW,loved your food descriptions - close to dinner time here!
Regards,
Joe G.
Apr 10th, 2006, 03:53 PM
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Sorry to alter the tone of this thread from the sublime restaurant discussion. We will be cruising Arles to Lyon on the River Royale in early June. Since several of you know Arles, could you suggest a wine shop near the dock to stock up on local wine for the trip?
May 18th, 2006, 10:55 AM
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you guys are making me drool & get misty at the same time! all my 'friends' [I use the term loosly with these chicks...] will be running around Arles [Monoprix, Sat/Wed market, our friend Catherine's record shop, etc, etc...] without me this weekend! to think they'll probably be discovering Rabanel before me.... ach... if he doesn't close down during the winter months I'll have to check things out... my turn! 
