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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2012 20:50:59 GMT
One or two of you might recall that I said that I would return to Binche this year in last year's report. I have a huge number of faults, but failing to keep my promises is not one of them. So on dimanche gras but unfortunately not mardi gras, here I was in Binche again. I was not the only person, and apparently things have become much more intense since the carnival of Binche attained Unesco immaterial World Heritage status in 2003. The very closest place that I was able to park the car was about 300 meters beyond this sign. I was kind of happy that about 90% of the trek was an uphill climb, which meant that it would be an easy downhill walk when it was time to leave. As I entered the city, there was already a quite festive atmosphere at the cafés along the way, even if it was only about 10:30 a.m. And the people did not seem to be drinking coffee. I had not yet learned some of the fascinating details, though. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2012 21:25:01 GMT
Binche has numerous carnival groups and each of them prepares a secret theme a year in advance. Since not everybody has lots of money, it takes all year to save up for the costume that has been chosen. These are often movie characters, comic strip heroes or images from advertising. I found this to be quite different from the prime carnival of France in Dunkerque. In Dunkerque the "bands" as they are called generally use the same traditional costumes year after year. Naturally, independent revelers can dream up any costume they want, and they do so with gusto. But I saw that in Binche, the special costumes of the year gave a special cachet to the event and whether you saw the people alone or in their group, you recognized the theme immediately. One group had chosen an old Jean-Paul Belmondo comedy whose existence I had totally forgotten (especially since I did not really care for the movie at the time). The people in the band know this (most of them not even having been born when the film was released), so when they are doing the official 'parade' they carry signs showing what they are copying. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2012 21:33:49 GMT
I just could not manage to get a good frontal shot of the Che Guevaras because they moved too fast, and I don't know who the bonus woman on their backside was. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2012 21:39:28 GMT
In any case, there were plenty of people. I saw on the evening news that I was even in the company of the new Belgian prime minister Elio Di Rupo, who had come from Mons, just like me. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2012 21:46:13 GMT
Cool  Lots of people but not enough masking though. It looks cold out,maybe that kept people from costuming/masking. |
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Post by amboseli on Feb 23, 2012 21:53:20 GMT
OMG, what crowds!
Carnival makes for colourful pictures, though.
Sorry you weren't there on mardi grad to see Les Gilles.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2012 21:55:15 GMT
As much as the people like costumes, masks are not a big thing in northern European carnivals. Masks are left to Venice. And yes, it was quite cold. It must also be admitted that Binche has become such a tourist draw that lots of the visitors are uncostumed spectators -- like me. However, a bit later I did add a little flourish to my woolen bonnet when I discovered another carnival tradition -- but we'll get to that.  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2012 6:10:44 GMT
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Post by mich64 on Feb 24, 2012 16:20:23 GMT
My goodness! I cannot believe how many people there are on the streets. Besides the people and their costumes, is there any entertainment going on? I seen some microphones in one photo but could not determine if they were part of a costume or not.
We have just had our winter carnival here, I wish I would have thought to go and take some photos. We do not usually go because it is always so cold and I am not a winter person ( I know, I am living in the wrong country! ) but there are always many people out having a good time and trying to stay warm! There is no alcohol for sale, but lots of hot chocolate!
Wonderful essay Kerouac!
Cheers,
Mich
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2012 17:55:49 GMT
Indeed, it was quite crowded at times, so I decreed that it was time to fulfill another promise that I made last year -- that I would visit the carnival and mask museum. It was 3.50€ well spent without even seeing anything yet, because it had pristine perfumed empty restrooms which spared me from having to pee on a side street or go into one of the jam-packed bars and face the inevitable horror of the WC on a day when excess drinking had begun at dawn. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2012 7:04:53 GMT
There was of course much explanation about the fabrication and the meaning of the traditional costumes of the Binche carnival. The "Gilles" only appear on Mardi Gras itself, and their huge feathered headpiece is only worn in the afternoon, but not if it is raining or snowing. There are about 1000 anonymous Gilles, and I had actually seen hundreds of them already, as the members of the bands dressed up in the other outfits today would all be Gilles a couple of days later. There are all sorts of rules for the Gilles, such as the fact that they are not permitted to walk around unless they are accompanied by at least one drummer. They may not step out of the city limits or go anywhere other than on foot. They are not allowed to kiss anybody or eat in public or sit down or get drunk whenever they are in costume. this year's carnival poster  |
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Post by tod2 on Feb 25, 2012 10:00:07 GMT
This is just wonderful Kerouac! I am hoping I will see more of your photos before I go away on a weeks holiday tomorrow - and no computer  The costumes are outstanding - I particularly like the two Red Indians, The Sabena girls and the Belmondo look-alikes! I can't wait to see your woollen bonnet - or is it a "beanie"?! |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2012 11:22:03 GMT
The museum seemed rather incomplete to me, since there was no mention at all of the carnival in New Orleans or the traditions Dunkerque or Nice. However, when you consider that the population of Binche is just 32,000, it is still quite an honourable effort which is sure to improve as the years go by. Little boys are happy as long as they are supplied with a big bag of confetti. The streets will remember their presence for many days to come. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2012 16:08:52 GMT
My goodness! I cannot believe how many people there are on the streets. Besides the people and their costumes, is there any entertainment going on? I seen some microphones in one photo but could not determine if they were part of a costume or not. Well, to wrap this up, I did want to mention that I was surprised by the lack of music in Binche, after visiting Dunkerque the previous two years. Dunkerque was full of marching musicians and songs that the crowds all knew. Binche, at least on Dimanche Gras, the first day of the carnival, did not have any music at all during the time I was there -- just a few drummers. Comparing other details, Dunkerque was more of a free-for-all in terms of costumes, and for the bandes that existed, they were pretty much the same costume every year. Binche was definitely more interesting in the costume department, with this deal of each band choosing a secret theme every year and creating 20 or 30 identical elaborate costumes which I presume are never used again. All of the reference material that I read about Binche made a point of saying that people saved money all year for their costumes, and the costumes for the Gilles cost a small fortune with all of the elaborate details. I am definitely going to have to return to Binche for the day of Mardi Gras itself to finally see the Gilles in full regalia, tossing their oranges with gay abandon. I was once again amazed to see how carefully the entire downtown zone was wrapped up to protect itself from orange damage. And finally, one of the joys of the costumes is when you are mystified by them. Are they bishops? Are they strawberries? Or both? These guys also had me stumped. I thought they were supposed to be convicts, but they had angel wings. Were they convicts who had committed suicide in prison? They had weird blank eyeglasses, which seemed to confirm that they were dead. I had it all wrong. Overhearing their conversation, I discovered that they were simply bees (perhaps who had misbreeded with hornets?). Well, Binche has piqued my curiosity, so I will be back. Goodbye for this year.   |
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Post by nycgirl on Feb 26, 2012 4:37:52 GMT
How fun! Some of these costumes are indeed entertainingly weird. In addition to the bees with the angel wings, I also think the Che Guevara/mysterious woman costumes are inexplicable.
The little kids are too cute and look like they're enjoying themselves. And I love the elaborate costumes and masks in the museum.
As fun as this looks, though, the crowds do look stress-inducing sometimes. The last two photos in #3 look almost as crowded as a typical big event you'd see here in NYC.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2012 6:47:36 GMT
Actually, the crowds look worse than they actually were. There was only one moment when I was temporarily stuck in human gridlock.
But, Mardi Gras itself must be another matter entirely! I found this video from this year. It's good to know that they do have music after all.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2012 6:56:20 GMT
Clearly there are some fiery nighttime activities as well.
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Post by bixaorellana on Mar 1, 2012 16:46:29 GMT
Sometimes anyport has too much good stuff at one time! I saw this fabulous thread earlier, when it was still being added to, & thought I'd wait to reply. Well, poof! -- somehow time got away & I'm only now seeing the even more fabulous finished version. Kerouac, you give great crowd scene! I'll bet the elder Brueghel would be delighted with this thread. That 4th princess dress picture in particular -- scroll below the store signs, & you practically have a Brueghel, particularly in the stance of the little princess girl. Poor city boy, who doesn't recognize a bee when he sees one!  The mimosa tradition is delightful. I'm assuming that was the flourish you added to your "woolen bonnet". I would not swear to this, but my first thought on seeing the women on the backs of the Che maskers was that they were Zapatistas, the point being one revolution spawning another. -?- More question marks for the concept of using obscure movies & old advertisements as themes. Odd. There are far, far too many really great photos in this thread to pick out favorites, but I have to mention the 5th one in the OP with the devil girl, the "mad hatter" painter, & the final one of the strawberry men, although I could cite many more. We'll certainly be looking forward to when you do the Gilles coverage! |
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