The ultimate road trip guide to Lake Como

Lake Como captures all the very best elements of Italy - from scrumptious food and spectacular views to swimming, style and - for much of the year - plenty of sunshine. As the third biggest lake in Italy (behind Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore), it's a popular escape for those in the north of the country and especially in the busy city of Milan. While it's easily accessible by train, it's also less than an hour's drive from Milan meaning it’s the perfect short road trip destination. With its twisting lakeside lanes, mountains and charming towns, here's our ultimate guide to driving Lake Como.

Day 1 – Milan to Tremezzina

Setting off - as many will do - from Milan's Malpensa Airport, it's a short 40-minute blast up the A9 to the town of Como. For those coming from the heart of Milan, the journey takes a similar amount of time or up to an hour if travelling by train. Serving as the gateway to Lake Como, the city is a good first stopping point with its bustling shopping streets, beautiful architecture and chic cafe culture.

Coffee in Como

Historians and shoppers will enjoy the market stalls that line the Medieval city walls at Piazza Vittoria. Everything from crafts to vintage clothing can be found here but watch for the crowds in peak seasons. Venture beyond the city walls and you'll discover the old town. It's worth meandering around the shopping streets, through the Piazzas and past the ancient churches (grabbing an espresso on the way, of course) and heading down to the lakefront to get a first glimpse of the calm and cooling water as it laps along the promenade. But don't linger for too long – there's much more to see beyond Como city.

Twist your way to Tremezzina

From Como, head down the left-hand side of the lake, which weaves past some of the region's finest villas and villages. For those in a hurry, take the SS340 – a wide and fast road that caries most of the traffic – while the real gems can be found along Via Regina, a narrow road that hugs the lakeside, offering spectacular views around every corner of the water and pastel-coloured villas. One of the best on Via Regina is Villa d’Este, which was originally built as a summer home for the Cardinal of Como in 1586. Now one of the region’s finest hotels, d’Este is a great alternative coffee or lunch spot, right on the lakeside. Hang around for long enough and you'll spot the many ferries, hydrofoils and even flying boats that provide transport for locals and tourists up and down the lake.

Driving on to Lenno, this charming town is in a sheltered bay with restaurants and café bars overlooking the gardens of Villa del Balbianello. Aside from starring as a location in the 2006 James Bond film Casino Royale, the villa was once home to Italian explorer Count Guido Monzino and is worth a visit as one of the region's best-preserved villas.

From Lenno, drive on and wind your way up the hillside directly above the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, branching off the SS340. Not far up the hill, you'll pull into Al Veluu – one of Como's best spots for lunch. Take a seat, enjoy the food and - most importantly - indulge in the spectacular views over the lake, Lenno and the surrounding area.

Rolling back down the hill after a true Italian lunch, it's a very short drive to the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. While it’s at the more expensive end of the spectrum, it's one of the most notable hotels in Europe, with its Wez Anderson-esque looks, lakeside pool and endless old-school glamour.

Day 2 – Tremezzina to Varenna (the long way around)

Waking up after a night at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, it's time to get back on the road and head further north. Resisting the temptation to board the car ferry and sail across the lake to Bellagio, keep driving north, hugging the shoreline wherever possible. Past Menaggio, the landscape gets wilder and quieter as you move away from the busier tourist hotspots. Venturing to the far north of the lake, the marshy nature reserve of Pian di Spagna is an excellent place to spot wildlife, get out of the car and explore on foot or take in some of the area's history. Inhabited since Roman times, the flood plain is beautifully framed by the surrounding mountains and offers some rugged respite from Como's more visited areas.

Colour and culture in Varenna

Moving on, the road sweeps around the top of the lake and back down the western side, past ​​Sant' Agata at the mouth of the river Adda and onto SP72. Once again, the slower route hugs the lakeside and twists its way through the lakeside towns and fishing villages. Continuing on the road, head for the colourful commune of Varenna, one of Como's most authentic and unspoilt towns. Founded in the sixth century, much of it was destroyed during the mediaeval period, which gave way to more 'modern' Italian architecture.

All aboard for Bellagio

As the perfect location for lunch, stop and admire the view at one of the restaurants overlooking the lake or head into the town's narrow streets to seek out some authentic Italian home cooking. After lunch, it's worth taking a stroll around the gardens of Villa Monastero before heading across on the ferry to Bellagio for the evening and a night at Hotel Belvedere. Perched on a hill above the well-known town, while Belvedere doesn't quite match up to the Tremezzo's grandeur, it's an exceptionally well-placed and inviting place to stay.

Day 3 – Bellagio to Milan

It's difficult to find a more picturesque place to wake up than Bellagio. At the heart of Lake Como, the charismatic town is a tourist hot spot during the day and, as a result, is awash with restaurants, bars, cafes and – most importantly – gelaterias.

Café culture

Grab a scoop or two before you hit the road and make tracks back down the eastern side of Lake Como's west leg towards Milan on SP583. For those looking to take an alternative route back to Milan, branch off down the lake's eastern leg also on SP583 towards the city of Lecco.

Sticking to the tried and tested track, the road down the eastern side of Como’s western leg winds its way out of Bellagio and through more of Como's quiet fishing villages as it nears Como city. Perched halfway up the limestone and granite hills above the lake, the road will prove popular for keen drivers.

Time for lunch in Torno

Stopping for lunch in Torno is a must. Sitting by Torno's little port sipping an aperitif is like stepping back in time. The bells of the church close by chime as the local restaurants start to wake up and prepare for another lunchtime. Enjoy the gentle pace while walking the narrow, cobbled streets before departing for the comparative hustle and bustle of Como City.

From Como, it's another short blast back to Milan down the A9 as the lakeside life fades away in the rearview mirror and the pace picks up back in one of Italy's busiest cities.