Review: Maison Proust

Why book Maison Proust Paris?

Themed hotels devoted to literary giants may be nothing new. Happily, the uber-stylish 23-suite Maison Proust belongs to another rarefied category, designed for an international luxe clientele who appreciate beauty, art, history, and – why not? – love. In other words, not just for book snobs or self-proclaimed esthetes. And it’s perfectly okay if you’ve never read a single page of Proust. The subtle conjuring of the French novelist is more about the Belle Époque atmosphere, as glowing with exquisite detail as the writer’s haunting seven-volume masterwork In Search of Lost Time. When you step inside this gorgeously restored six-story townhouse, set back on a quiet street in Le Marais, guests are immediately caught up in the enchantment – an enveloping whoosh of exoticism – where, in the blink of an eye, you gaze in wonder at the sumptuously furnished Belle Époque salon/bar and slide a century back in time. 

Set the scene

Glimpsed from the street, you might mistake the hotel for a private maison particulier since there is no showy sign, but the glassed-in fin-de-siècle winter garden terrace is a giveaway that this is no ordinary home. The reception is hidden away to the side of the hallway in an alcove like a secret antechamber, and everything – from the elegant polished wood antique check-in desk to an original portrait of the silhouette of Proust (painted with 19th-century techniques) – sets the mood. Before you’re ushered to your room, stop for a drink at the theatrical plush salon/bar, a veritable showstopper decked out with smoky blue banquettes, curvy low chairs, antique mirrors, and crystal chandeliers. And it doesn’t end there. Just beyond, behind the velvet draped curtains is a second, more intimate, circular salon (don’t miss the original watercolour by painter Madeleine Lemaire), with a starry sky dome ceiling with a gold leaf sun, inspired by the Opéra Garnier and a jaw-dropping library with over 1,200 rare leather-bound editions that date before Proust’s death in 1922.

The backstory

Owners Yoni Aidan and Sylviane Sanz, founders of Parisian hotel group Collection Maisons Particulières (Maison Souquet, Maison Athenée) are not only passionate art and antique collectors, immersed in the history of Belle Epoque golden age splendour, but better yet – their recreated fin-de-siècle universe manages to strike the perfect balance between deep comfort and richly furnished dramatic decor without a shred of staid Old World pretentiousness. Working in close collaboration with renowned architect and interior design guru, Jacques Garcia (Hotel Costes, Paris, Hotel Métropole, Monaco, La Mamounia, and Nobu Hotel, Marrakech), ever since the 2015 opening of Maison Souquet (a sumptuously reinvented 1900s Parisian bordello outfitted with courtesan period pieces), it has taken them 3.5 years of work and 2,000 metres of fabric to complete their third hotel, Maison Proust. This time, scouring the antique markets and auctions was even more complex: each suite is devoted to a historic figure within Proust’s illustrious circle of friends – viperous high society gossip, literary salon royalty, actresses, writers, and painters. The challenge, Aidan explains, was to find the right painting, fabric, colour scheme, objects, and antique book collection to create a soul for each of these notorious true-life figures.

The rooms

Spread over six floors, guests of Maison Proust Paris can choose the romantically-lit room or suite of their favourite Proustian muse or artistic cohort, from Princess Mathilde, Napoleon’s imperious sharp-tongued niece, to avant-garde prince of the poets, Jean Cocteau. Expect a dazzling medley of walls lined with patterned silk and embroidered fabrics, shimmery taffeta curtains from Pierre Frey, Rubelli, Lelièvre, and Edmond Petit, plus the ultimate pièce de résistance: a museum quality portrait from the end of the 19th century. In the Emile Zola suite, for instance, a nude courtesan arranges her chignon in front of her mirror evoking high-class prostitute heroine Nana; in the Robert de Montesquiou room is a brooding portrait of the flamboyant dandy who inspired Proust’s Baron de Charlus and Huysman’s Des Esseintes. In our suite, named after the revered, eccentric, and golden-voiced superstar actress, Sarah Bernhardt, I couldn’t take my eyes off the portrait of a dreamy-eyed theatre-goer, an elegant demoiselle in a cinched-waist pink taffeta ball gown. Add to the rich decor an abundance of (Proustian) microscopic details – ornate golden door handles, Cordoba leather-lined bathroom walls, gold-thread monogrammed robes and towels, a secret desk tucked away in a corner by the window, a shelf of carefully chosen books, and the list goes on. From the windows is an unencumbered view of trees and the neighbourhood rooftops. Oddly, there are no real closets (save a bedside nook behind a curtain for minimalist boudoir apparel); large suitcases are meant to be stored under the ultra-comfy high bed. High point: bone up on your literary French alongside Jacques Garcia’s stunning lampshades fashioned after a parchment and leather-bound book bearing a hand-written excerpt of Swann’s Way.

The spa 

Dubbed a “water salon,” this dreamy Moorish-style spa (a tribute to Proust’s childhood memories of his Aunt Léonie’s oriental living room in Combray), there’s a 10-metre heated pool, plus a hammam and sauna in an Arabian Nights décor (think marble, low wood slated ceiling and twinkly lanterns). Unsurprisingly, the meticulous craftsmanship by expert Moroccan artisans took one year to assemble – the ceramic ornamental tiles on the stucco columns were all pieced together by hand. Guests can privatise the space for a one-hour idyll, and then book a massage in one of the three adjacent treatment rooms.

Food and drink

In this intimate bar/lounge ideal for a tête-à-tête whispering, the “Proustified” menu of craft cocktails and refined light snacks are in total sync with the spirit of the place. Best bets: the “Madeleine” cocktail, a mix of vanilla-spiked vodka with Grand Marnier and Amaretto; the unctuous “Tarte Framboise”, a concoction of raspberry-infused vodka and lime whipped cream; and for a nightcap, the decadent “Baron de Charlus”, a blend of Calvados caviar powder. We shared a slab of delicious foie gras with fig chutney, a copious cheese platter, and a slice of warm tarte tatin for dessert. Other choices include gazpacho, smoked salmon, caviar and blinis, an artichoke and olive salad, and a bowl of pesto penne for heartier appetites.

The service

The young friendly concierge at reception was extremely helpful and knowledgeable about just about anything you’d like to know about Paris, including transport, museums, and restaurants. As is the case at the two other jewel box boutique hotels in the Maisons Particulieres collection, a relaxed ultra-professional vibe prevails.

The neighbourhood

The advantages of the location abound a quiet street in Le Marais within walking distance to a wealth of things to do and see, starting with the cluster of upscale boutiques on the rue Vieille du Temple and nearby trendy Parisian label fashion showrooms. Add to that the dizzying choice of restaurants on the neighbouring rue Charlot (try the new brasserie and wine bar Le Collier de la Reine) and rue de Bretagne. It’s also a 15-minute stroll to the Musée Carnavalet, whose temporary collection includes the reconstituted bedroom of Marcel Proust, featuring his polished wood bed draped with a deep blue coverlet, his cane and coat, and the writer’s precious pen. 

Who comes here?  

Well-heeled local young professionals and fashionistas, for the exceptional bar; literary-minded culture vultures, design lovers, and couples of any age who crave a plush theatrical fin-de-siècle backdrop for a romantic weekend.

For families and pets

There’s a choice of six suites with adjoining rooms for families with children in tow, a top-floor executive suite with two bedrooms, and another executive suite with three bedrooms. Couples with older kids (no water toys or splashing here) can opt for private bookings for an hour at the pool and hammam. Pets, however, are not accepted – understandably, even the best-behaved Fido or Fifi might fancy a chomp on the rare leather-bound books or put a snag on the delicate fabrics.

Eco effort

Locally-sourced organic ingredients from the breakfast fruit juices, butter, and jams to the snack menu, plus eco-friendly cleaning products and zero plastic containers.

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments

The ground-floor lobby, winter garden terrace, and bar are on one level; there’s a lift to the two suites with wheelchair access – the first-floor Princess Mathilde and the second-floor Countess Greffulhe.

Anything else to mention

Bibliophiles will feel right at home amongst the collection of 2,000 rare books and signed editions, including an original letter from Proust to Princess Soutzo and a 1914 autographed copy of Swann’s Way.

Is it worth it? 

Yes, vraiment, because of its beguiling opulent hideaway allure and the staff’s careful attention to guests’ every whim. And you may rediscover Proust: Perhaps there are no hopes for involuntary childhood memories spurred by madeleine-dunking in linden tea, but your suite is the perfect setting for faire catleya, to use Swann’s love-making In Search of Lost Time metaphor.