The Vogue Guide to Capri: Where to Eat, Sleep, and Sunbathe on the Mystical Island

The mystical, magical island of Capri has bewitched visitors for centuries. Located off the Bay of Naples, the island sits like a generous dollop of volcanic rock in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Small, steep, and cliff-laden, the landscape allows visitors to feel as though they’re suspended between two blue ethers—a sparkling sea of cobalt and an endless sky. As for the terrain, it’s blanketed with Mediterranean shrubs, blooming Broom flowers, Bougainvillea, and lemon trees. The citrus has become something of a motif of the island; lemon stands, lemon granitas, limoncello, and lemon-printed fashions abound on Capri.

The island’s allure is well-documented and somewhat subversive. In Homer’s Odyssey, the nearby waters were inhabited by the Sirens, who beckoned sailors to their deaths. The second Roman emperor, Tiberius Caesar Augustus, is remembered for fleeing Rome for Capri, where he built palaces and infrastructure but also shirked his responsibilities and infamously took up wildly hedonistic and grotesque pursuits. And in Jean-Luc Godard’s Contempt, Brigette Bardot’s character, departing the Capris’ architectural marvel Casa Malaparte (more on this below), meets an untimely fate.

But on your visit, you’re more likely to experience la dolce vita. References to this are just as plentiful. Think of Jackie Kennedy Onassis on the island wearing, yes, capri pants. Then there’s the Capri-rich oeuvre of Slim Aarons; his photo of the sunbathing beauties stacked poolside in the Le Corbusier-inspired Punta Tragara comes to mind. And for the fashion set, there’s model Bianca Balti in a white bikini, bobbing in a boat near the arched Faraglioni rock formations in Dolce & Gabbana’s memorable commercials for the fragrance light blue. No matter what image you have in your mind's eye, Capri is one of the few destinations where reality exceeds expectations.

On the island, layers of history are embedded within the craggy limestone rock foundations. Roman ruins, 19th-century holiday homes, Medieval stone footbaths, and modern-day megayachts all dazzlingly co-exist together; the island’s natural beauty is amplified by the effortless sprezzatura of the habitués. Here, you feel as though you’re sampling a taste of a bygone jet-set holiday—Mr. Ripley was nearby in Positano, after all. The dress code is as understated as a white linen button-up. The cuisine is perfectly simplistic—fish filets with a squeeze of lemon. And the moments are unrushed. As you whiz around the island in an open-air taxi with a canvas canopy, you’ll feel transported in more ways than one. A day spent bobbing in the sea, so salty it’ll leave crystals on your skin, melds into a viewing of the sunset, which will ignite the sky and give you the impression that, off in the distance, Ischia is simmering.

A journey to Capri likely starts at Naples, where about an hour-long boat ride will take you to one of two ports, Marina Grande (serving ferries) and Marina Piccola (serving yachts and boats). There are also two main towns on the island: Capri and Anacapri. Note that the narrow, serpentine streets of “downtown” Capri don’t accommodate cars, so you’ll have to plan ahead to get your luggage to your destination. Your hotel will be able to facilitate a port-to-hotel transfer and if you’re staying somewhere without a concierge, the city operates a luggage porter system. All these and more tips for Capri, below.

Where to Stay

Within a few moments spent on Capri, you’ll learn it’s all about the views—some of the best to be found are at Hotel Luna. Family-operated, the hotel, which is about a 10-minute walk from Capri’s Piazzetta, is perched on a bluff that offers awe-inspiring views of the Faraglioni rock formations. Most rooms, which are outfitted with glossy painted tiles evocative of Capri, offer a sea vista, and there is also a rooftop restaurant, the Capri Rooftop Lounge Bar, which picks up after the sun sets. Family-friendly, the hotel’s second greatest attraction is its pool—Olympic size with sea and garden views. Spend the day poolside where you can have a proper alfresco lunch at the hotel’s second restaurant.

Located in Anacapri, Capri Palace Jumeirah can be found at the base of Mount Solaro. It’s one of the island’s more impressive hotels, equipped with a serious spa and two Michelin stars. The approach to the hotel features a vine-covered walkway and once you arrive, you’ll find yourself on a terrace offering views of nearby Ischia. Rooms are done up in a very Capri color scheme of blue and white—milky ceramic tiles feature blue motifs, and blanched white linen upholstery adds a crispness. Don’t miss the celebrated L’Olivo restaurant and the bar, which is home to a video installation by the artist Fabrizio Plessi that glows in a color inspired by the island’s famed Blue Grotto. Off-site, the Capri Palace Jumeirah also operates Il Riccio, a nearby, bustling beach club (more on that below) that you shouldn’t miss.

If heaven is a place on earth, it's Caesar Augustus. Located in Anacapri, the hotel is about as good as it gets. Built in 1850, the property was originally known as Villa Bitter, the holiday home of a German gentleman. Today, the Victorian villa vibes remain; guests will feel more like a guest of a stately home than a hotel. With 49 beautiful bedrooms and 6 suites, the Caesar Augustus’s allure lies in its situation—on a cliff that gives the impression of being suspended over the sea. Painted a lovely pale yellow, the villa is known for its white and yellow-striped awnings and a terrace lined with classical sculptures perched atop a balustrade rail. Keeping watch is a statue of Caesar Augustus (not his step-son Tiberius); a photo here is almost required.

The grand dame hotel of Capri is undoubtedly the Hotel Quisisana. If you’re looking for a place to see and be seen, look no further. Situated in a lively part of old town Capri, the street-side patio of the Quisisana is home to a restaurant that is never not bustling during high season. By day, breakfast and lunch are served; as the day goes on, aperitivo becomes dinner, and then it’s more cocktails and quite a lively atmosphere well into the night. Inside, rooms offer views of the Faraglioni, or the heart of town. Originally built as a sanatorium in 1845 by a British doctor, the Quisisana, which translates to "here one heals" is sure to offer you the respite you need.

Beach Clubs

Opened in 1949, La Fontelina began as a humble beach shack eatery but it didn’t take long for the jet set to discover it in the ’60s. To access La Fontelina, you’ll have to take a long flight of stairs starting near the Punta Tragara hotel. Don’t underestimate the journey and come with practical shoes. The destination will be worth it. Instead of sand, there are slabs of limestone and the famous blue-and-white striped beach chairs to lounge in. Today, a trip to La Fontelina, which always includes lunch, is a Capri must. Like all beach clubs here, reservations are required and book up quickly.

On that same staircase down to La Fontelina, you’ll find Da Luigi. Another equally scenic beach club, Da Luigi is situated nearby one of the three formations that make up the Faraglioni. The place bills itself as Capri's de facto living room. Since its opening in the 1960s, it’s been a place for relaxation and respite beneath the sun.

Over in Anacapri, Lido del Faro is a beach club set beneath the Punta Carena lighthouse. Here, fewer tourists flock but the experience is no less remarkable. There’s a restaurant with perfect views and fare, and for when the waves are too rough, which often happens, there’s a saltwater pool for swimming.

The fashion set is known to flock to Il Riccio, the beach club that hovers over the sea. It’s most recently been the host of a Dior pop-up but even without such programming, the space is not to be missed. Come here to lounge on a daybed (access to the water is limited) and lunch at the restaurant which offers sweeping water views.

Where to Eat

You’ve probably already seen photos of Da Paolino without even knowing it. Located above Marina Grande and situated in a lemon tree-filled garden, Da Paolino is a must-go. To dine here is to dine beneath a canopy of citrus (nets catch falling fruits). Order a Caprese, the island’s eponymous salad, and the lemon spaghetti. And no meal here is complete without a bit of limoncello.

For a more rustic meal, head to the family-run pizzeria Le Grottelle. As its name suggests, the restaurant is comprised of nooks and crannies carved out of the rock face. Meals are cooked on an outdoor grill and the dining terrace looks out onto Campanella point.

For dinner with a side of nightlife, head to Villa Verde. Located in old town Capri, the white table-clothed restaurant is great for big groups and big nights out. Seafood is their specialty but the entire menu won't leave you disappointed.

Capri’s dining scene is famously and delightfully relaxed but when you want something more distinguished, L’Olivo is the best choice. Helmed by chef Andrea Migliaccio, who hails from nearby Ischia, the restaurant boasts two Michelin stars. Set within the Anacapri’s Capri Palace Jumeirah, the restaurant’s signature dish is the lemon-scented homemade tagliolini pasta with burrata cheese, red prawns, and sea asparagus.

What to See

When he died, the Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe left behind a legacy as a healer as well as a reputation for generosity—he would treat impoverished patients without charge. He would also leave behind Villa San Michele, his home and garden in Anacapri which has been lauded as one of the most beautiful in Italy. With impressive horticultural knowledge, Munthe filled his gardens with rare and exotic flora. Today, Villa San Michele is a destination for tourists curious to see the idyll Munthe once inhabited.

Though you’ll arrive by boat, a trip to Capri isn’t complete without a more private boat ride tour. From here, you’ll be able to get close to Casa Malaparte (the Italian Modern masterpiece built in the late 1930s after Adalberto Libera’s designs), which is otherwise closed to the public. Gianni’s Boat service is a local favorite but note that the blue grotto is only accessible by smaller row boat.

Those with a fear of heights might want to skip this recommendation, but otherwise, a trip to Monte Solaro, the highest point of Capri, shouldn’t be missed. Take a chair lift—a skimpy open-air vessel that sits one person per lift—from Anacapri, around the corner from the Capri Palace Jumeirah, which will transport you to the incredible views and an old 19th-century fort and gardens. A windy day might have you clutching your pearls but the ascent is also half the fun.

A short walk from the center of old town Capri will lead you to a botanical garden you could easily spend the afternoon enjoying. Comprising a series of terraces overlooking the sea, the gardens teem with local vegetation and geraniums, dahlias, and broom flowers. Here, a 180-degree panoramic vista of the island is also available; as is a view of the Faraglioni and a view of the serpentine footpath of Via Krupp.

A favorite after-hours haunt, Taverna Anema e Core has long lured those in search of a dance floor and a good time. By far the most famous club on Capri, Taverna Anema e Core opened in 1994 and has earned a position as an island institution—quite a feat for an island with such a history as Capri’s.