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Black Spanish (also known as Lenoir and Jacquez) is a black-skinned grape variety native to Texas. It is not a Vitis vinifera variety, unlike the vast majority of commercial grapes made into wine in the world, but rather a crossing of Vitis vinifera, vitis aestivalis, Vitis berlandieri, Vitis rupestris and Vitis riparia. Black Spanish is made into musky, weighty red wines and richly sweet fortified wines.
Locations
The variety – some reports also indicate it is derived from a pairing of Vitis vinifera and vitis aestivalis – is most prevalent in the hot, often humid Texas climate. This local popularity is partly due to historical production and partly due to its well-known resistance to Pierce's disease, usually associated with the southeastern United States although outbreaks have occurred across the US.
Small plantings of Black Spanish can be found throughout Brazil and some producers in nearby Mexico also grow the grape.
Characteristics
Black Spanish, as its name suggests, is deeply colored. The grape has dark flesh, and in France would be referred to as teinturier. It is made into juices and jellies as well as wine, and is noted for its jammy boysenberry and elderberry flavors.
The variety is also known as a reliable cropper with moderate vigor. It is adaptable to a wine range of trellising systems and in Texas is often planted un-grafted (on its own roots).
The vine produces large berries with an open bunch structure, aiding airflow through the bunch and limiting disease spread where the canopy is open to air circulation – a primary concern for viticulturists as the variety is prone to severe crop loss if affected by downy mildew.
History and current production
Black Spanish was used for Communion wine in its early Texas days, expanding to more commercial functions once growers came to terms with its deep color and flavor intensity.
The variety produces wines with good acidity despite often high pH levels and high potential alcohol levels at harvest. Although produced in a range of styles, it is well-suited to Port wine production.
Unfortunately, the variety is in in decline as growers in Texas have turned to more fashionable international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel.
Synonyms
Synonyms include: Lenoir, Jacques, Jacquez, Troya
Food pairings
Before casting around for potential food matches for Black Spanish wines, look no further than a well-matched regional staple: Texas barbeque. Indeed, the variety's robust body will match well with the deep flavors, proteins and texture of barbequed meats generally.
Other suggestions include a roast leg of lamb with herb crust (again, using texture in the food to play off the opulence of the wine) and, in the case of fortified or Port-like examples, why not try a hint of name-matching and opt for a Black Forest gateau?
