Need New Bike ASAP

Anyway, everything broke on Saturday (I was out on the Columbia
River Gorge but made it home). First, I pulled an entire spoke
socket through the wall of a not-so-old Mavic Suc Open
something-or-another (yes, anodized). Then, while attending to
my wheel, I noticed that I had again cracked a seat stay on an
old-style Cannondale 2.8 (this is the second 2.8 I have broken --
this was a replacement frame). I do not usually dis Cannondale
or Al because I have a 1968 Black Lightning and a T1000 that have
withstood much abuse -- but the 2.8s with the cantilever stays
sucked big time. Anyway, time for a new frame -- and fast.

I do not want a "steel is real" jihad, but I do wonder why people
buy a 6+ lb steel frame/fork when you can get lighter CF or Ti
frames for the same price. Being able to fix steel is not a good
enough reason to buy it, because I assume that what ever frame I
buy will have a good warranty. No magic-of-steel stories needed.
I bought my first high quality steel frame over 30 years ago and
have had many since.

So, what is a worthy, reasonably light frame that can withstand
out of the saddle climbing by a 6'3" 205lb old guy. Yes, fit is
paramount, and I will make sure it fits and has a reasonably long
TT. I might go back to racing this year, so no Rivendell's --
but then again, no zero-wheel-base bikes either. I want
something that won't skip around a lot climbing, is stiff and
affordable and comes in a 62 or 63cm. -- Jay Beattie.

Dear Jay,

I'm afraid that the price of the bicycle of your dreams has
risen from $53.73 to $58.88, possibly due to popular demand:

http://tinyurl.com/2tohm

Undoubtedly some dimension measures 63 cm. "Its handcrafted
frame carries the confidence of a lifetime warranty."

More seriously, sorry about your troubles.

Carl Fogel

See if you like anything at GVH Bikes. He has a variety of large size
bikes in an assortment of prices. He sells just frames, just groups,
or commplete bikes. I have bought a bike from him and was happy with
the purchase.

Nick

Jay Beattie wrote:

> [snip]

But wait!! The 26 inch version is $58.88. You can still pick up the 24
inch for $53.73. I'm sure that it will also have a 63cm dimension, perhaps
even between the same 2 points as the 26 inch.

http://tinyurl.com/yqm3a

If you spend some time shopping on the site you might also notice that you
can pick up a 26 inch dual-suspension "power climber" for the paltry sum of
$68.68. An upgrade to full suspension frame, for less than a sawbuck! If
that's not enough to close the deal, it has 18-speed Shimano shifting!
Alas, there is no "confidence of a lifetime warranty".

If $68.68 is beyond your budget, and the 15 speeds of the Roadmaster Mt.
Fury just aren't enough, you have another option. The "Roadmaster Mountain
Sport SX 26-inch Bike" will give you "18-speed rear index shifting" for a
price that tucks neatly between the Mt. Fury and the "power climber",
$64.77.

--
Greg Estep

> ... I do not usually dis Cannondale

Isn't a 1968 Black Lightning a motorcycle? I also have and like
a C-dale tourer, but the 2.8 and its cantilever stays should be
disposed of on style grounds alone. They just look stupid.

I can't tell you why people buy steel - aesthetics, mojo, an extra
margin of durability? For me, aesthetics and mojo count, plus a good
lightly used steel frame was cheap. In order to save more than a
pound off a high quality steel frame with CF, Ti, Al you have to spend
a lot of money (forks now having been demoted to the level of
accessory). I think one could race a Rivendell without any
significant disadvantage, especially in lower-cat races and those
which do not go over a mountain pass. But you have to like that kind
of aesthetic statement.

IMO, steel frames with oversized tubing are plenty stiff, more so
than 80s-standard tubing if that's what you were used to. I only
really notice this as a decrease in chain rub. I assume you're
looking for a frameset only. Not sure what is available from the
big manufacturers. Plus their current Al offerings trend to ugly
paint jobs, little tire clearance, and relatively short stays.
How about a Gunnar, Kelly (www.kellybike.com) or Habanero?

Dear Greg,

Twenty-four inch tires? Dear God! Why not just come right out of the
closet and admit that you're Alexander Moulton?

As for your lavish, overpriced alternatives, need I remind you that a
fool and his money soon are parted? The UCI forbids the use of
suspension, and Jay has expressed an interest in racing.

I can only hope that your well-meant extravagance does not move
Werehatrack to offer you a stiff lecture on the value of substance
over style.

More in sorrow than anger,

Carl Fogel

--

jb

> ...

Dear Carl,

Why would anyone want those huge 24-inch wheels, unless they are trying
to compensate for other inadequacies?

--
Tom Sherman - Quad Cities (Illinois Side)

Dear Tom,

I'm not going to take this kind of comment lying down!

Carl Fogel

--

> > ... I noticed that I had again cracked a seat stay on an

> jay, i'm interested to see your frame failure because of brake stress.

I'm pretty sure Jay was talking about breaking a Cannondale 2.8 road
frame, the ones where the seatstay and chainstay join the dropout well
ahead of the rear axle. An arrangement that looks fragile to me (not
to mention dorky as hell). Caliper brakes don't flex the stays like
cantilever brakes do. Never heard of anyone breaking off a rear brake
bridge, though I'm sure it's happened somewhere.

This was the second 2.8 frame that I broke, both in the same
place: where the right side seat stay is "squashed" flat before
it is welded into the chain stay. Right at the squash point
there must be a horrendous stress-riser. I developed
circumferential cracking on both frames in that area.

The design of the original 2.8s was problematic, and Cannondale
dumped it long ago. I got one cheap in '93, raced it a lot and
broke it by '95. the '95 replacement frame is the one I just
broke. I am going for warranty replacement, but I do not know
whether I will build the frame or sell it. -- Jay Beattie.

Why obsess over a pound or two on the frame? Even with the lightest
components, your frame+parts will weigh over 15 lbs. Put you on it,
and you have 220 lbs. The weight difference in frame/fork is going
to be a couple of pounds at best (my *HEAVY* custom, steel touring
frame/fork is about 5.5 lbs). You are niggling over < 1% weight difference
on the road. I lose more than a couple of pounds every Saturday and Sunday,
and as a percentage it is a lot more (at end-of-winter high I am 160).
Rather than obsess over weight I would look for the frame that felt best to
me, and not exclude a lot of options because of a minor weight issue. Todd
Kuzma has built up a Heron Road, steel frame, at something just north of
17 lbs., complete. Best advice: keep an open mind, and hit the shops
for some test rides. Last time I did that I pissed off the salesperson
by walking out with a relatively inexpensive steel bike, at < 1/2 the
price of the Al bike he was trying to push, and < 1/3 the price of the CF
bike I went there to buy. But 15 miles into the hills on each bike and
the choice was obvious to me.

- rick

> The '95 replacement frame is the one I just

I am all but certain that Cannondale have no more 2.8 frames with
which to replace yours, so you will surely receive a more recent
frame-- a CAAD4 or even a more recent variation, none of which suffer
the weird cantilevered dropouts that have proven to be your problem.

In the past, Cannondale have always furnished me with both a
replacement frame and all the necessary bits to go with it (e.g. a
different diameter fork and headset.) The quality of warranty support
I've gotten from them has left me no basis whatsoever for complaint.
IMO it's the single best reason to buy a Cannondale.

Chalo Colina