Steering lock assembly removal and replacement

Subject: Steering lock assembly removal and replacement
Author: DavidC (moderator) : member since December, 2003 : 13182 posts
Posted on: 2008-08-30 00:52:32

Some of you may recall that my ignition switch has been broken for some time (a '92 750iL). After months of driving around with a set of locking pliers sticking out of where the ignition key would normally go, and a bit of research (see Any tips on replacing the steering lock assembly?), it was apparent that the ignition switch itself was fine. The steering lock assembly, the tube into which the lock cylinder slides, was the part that was broken. Unfortunately, you can't just buy the one piece that was broken, so you have to get the entire steering lock assembly (roughly $100 at a BMW dealer).

The short story is that I've successfully disassembled the steering column and replaced the broken component. In the process, I've documented several useful repairs, including the removal and replacement of the steering wheel and airbag, ignition switch, the lock cylinder and, of course, the steering lock assembly at the root of my problem. I hope these photos and directions prove helpful to others here on BimmerBoard.

Symptom: The car key spins freely in the ignition cylinder. The car won't start. The steering wheel lock won't disengage and the steering wheel can't be turned.

Solution: Remove and replace the steering lock assembly. We'll re-use the ignition switch and the lock cylinder.

Tools Required:

Ratcheting wrench
15mm socket
7mm hex socket
T20 torx bit
1.5mm allen key (or similarly sized stiff wire about 3" long)
Lock ring pliers (or snap ring pliers)
Stubby flat-blade screwdriver (or short ratcheting screwdriver)
Dremel-type rotary tool with abrasive grinding wheel
Expanding clamp

Time Required: Approximately 3 hours.

Summary of Procedure:

Disconnect car battery.
Remove airbag and steering wheel.
Remove turn signal and other stalk controls.
Remove ignition switch.
Remove ignition key cylinder.
Grind slots in security bolts on steering column.
Remove security bolts and the steering lock assembly.
Replace steering lock unit and re-assemble.

First, extend the steering column to it's longest position, then disconnect the car battery. We'll be working with the airbag so we don't want to disconnect it while the battery is connected lest we trigger the airbag light in the instrument cluster. If you do happen to trigger the airbag light, you could take the car to a BMW dealer or technician with a diagnostic computer, or you could reset it yourself using a tool such as the Peake R5/SRS airbag reset tool, or Shogun's reset tool.

Loosen the two T-20 torx bolts behind the steering wheel that secure the airbag.

Disconnect the airbag and set it aside.

Use a 15mm socket and a ratcheting wrench to remove the bolt that holds the steering wheel in place.

When the bolt is removed, use a marker or a sharp point to scratch an alignment mark. This will be used to make it easy to align the steering wheel during reassembly.

Disconnect the airbag wiring harness from the steering wheel below the steering column.

Twist the orange clip to disengage it from a slot in the bottom of the steering column.

This view shows that we currently have the steering wheel completely our of the way. Remove the plastic clamshell covering the body of the steering column (upper and lower parts, which snap apart at the edges).

The right side of the steering lock assembly, looking down into the hole where the lock cylinder would normally reside (see directions on removing the lock cylinder for details).

This closeup shows the broken piece inside the tube. Normally, there's supposed to be a piece of metal in there with a slot for the lock barrel to engage, but it broke off, allowing the ignition key to spin freely without engaging anything.

A view of the upper side of the steering lock assembly. We're going to use a Dremel rotary tool to cut slots in the top of the two security bolts on either side of the column. More on that later.

A view of the underside of the steering lock assembly. The round, white plastic object in the lower middle is the ignition switch. Note the brown ground wire leading to a 7mm hex bolt.

Press the plastic tabs on either side of the steering column to release the stalk controls from the column. They will slide downward as a single unit.

Let the stalk controls hang gently below the column. There's no need to disconnect anything.

Use a 7mm socket to remove the grounding screw.

Next, we'll remove the two red screws holding the ignition switch in place.

Slide the ignition switch out and away. Note the orientation of the notches in the black plastic guides.

Back to the security bolts. Use a Dremel or similar rotaty tool with a cutting disc to grind slots into the tops of the two bolts.

Then use a stubby screwdriver or ratchet to unscrew the two bolts.

Lift the cover and set it aside. Note the orientation of the ends for later reinstallation.

Slide the cap ring off of the column. Note that the inner edge is notched.

Use lock ring pliers (or snap ring pliers) to expand the locking ring and remove it from the groove.

Remove the next bushing. Note that the steering column will probably pull itself back, shortening itself.

Remove the plastic guide and the inner bearing and bushing. We'll transplant these items into the new steering lock assembly. Pay close attention to the order and orientation of all the pieces as you remove them.

Stepping back for a moment, let's examine how the ignition key and the steering lock asembly work to restrict turning the steering wheel. When the key is in the off position, notice how the plate rises. When the key is in the on position, that same plate lowers out of the way. There's a cutout area in the bottom of the steering column that mates with the plate, causing the steering wheel to lock movement or to turn freely, depending on whether the key is inserted and in the on position.

When inserting the lock cylinder into the steering lock assembly, take care to properly align the eccentric inside the tube with the proper position of the key cylinder. It will fit in two ways -- one will cause the steering wheel to lock properly when the key in the off position, but it's easy to get it backwards and have the wheel lock when the key is in the on position -- exacly opposite what you want. I snapped a video to quickly show the difference: Steering lock assembly tips (QuickTime MOVIE)

Back to business. If your steering lock assembly is broken like mine, you won't be able to use your key to disengage the column lock to remove the steering column assembly. Instead, pull the lock assembly as far foward as possible (about 1/2" will do), then insert a small screwdriver into the end of the assembly. Feel around and locate the plate from the previous photos and depress it.

The steering lock assembly can then slide off the steering column.

Place a few drops of machine oil on the inner surface of the new steering lock assembly, particularly around the moving plate.

Install the new steering lock assembly with the transplanted bearing and related components. Re-install the metal plate above the steering lock assembly and tighten it down with new security bolts (or, re-use the old ones as I did). Before you install the lock ring into the groove on the column, you'll need to pull the column out a bit. For that, I used an expanding clamp, applying pressure to the lower rear edge of the new steering lock assembly and the 15mm bolt, which I temporarily inserted into the end of the steering column.

With the column extended, use your lock ring pliers to finish transplanting the rest of the hardware and bushings from the old unit. When you're done, reinstall the ignition switch, the stalk controls, the airbag wiring harness, the clamshell covers and, finally, the steering wheel and airbag, taking care to use your alignment marks to properly position the steering wheel on the column.

Reconnect the car's battery and test it all. Be sure not to have any extra components when you're done -- the steering system requires them all for safety!

David Cecil
Lexington, KY
Titanium silver '01 750iL, 92k miles
Oxford green '97 740iL, 184k miles
Alpine white '92 750iL, 95k miles (for sale)
Charcoal gray '86 735i, 101k miles (for sale)

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The 7 Series E32 Forum | Message Thread:

Steering lock assembly removal and replacement (pic) (link) (imp) - DavidC 2008-08-30 00:52:32 (72649 views)
- I have the same lock damage. Can the intermediate shaft just be replaced ? (pic) - Ken 2013-07-18 10:50:44 (587 views)
- Re: Steering lock assembly removal and replacement - hamburger 2012-03-11 09:38:11 (570 views)
- Re: Steering lock assembly removal and replacement - dannyfresh 2011-05-12 08:47:46 (577 views)
- Re: Steering lock assembly removal and replacement - loping 2010-06-29 07:56:28 (691 views)
- Re: Steering lock assembly removal and replacement - birch 2010-03-21 20:52:50 (805 views)
- Pic are always welcomed along with a great write up. - alv12 2008-08-30 14:13:01 (752 views)
- Another expertly written article! Thank you David! (nt) - bcweir750 2008-08-30 11:09:58 (692 views)
- WOW - I'm speechless! Well, almost - THANK YOU! - leersmd 2008-08-30 03:02:37 (636 views)
  - Incredible detailed write up with pics...thanks for sharing - eliasazem 2008-08-30 10:09:58 (660 views)
    - Brilliant write up Thanks. (nt) - slydon 2008-08-30 10:24:17 (600 views)

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