DK Men Unleaded
Donna Karan (1995)

Dk Men Unleaded by Donna Karan (1995) is supposed to be a lighter and fresher take on the original DK Men by Donna Karan (1994) and came in the same weird Giger-esque sculpture bottle created by her late husband Stephen Weiss. As the story goes, Lauder eventually snapped up this house and everything made prior to that was discontinued when the brand was relabeled DKNY, shooting prices for surviving bottles of this through the roof along with the original DK Men because both were moderately popular and discontinuation was not a result of poor sales. Even when a limited release occurred for DK Men (but not this "unleaded" version), prices on re-issued bottles still managed to climb back up to the insanity of Creed retail MSRP once sold out, so this line is nothing if not loved by collectors. Truth be told, all Donna Karan masculines are unicorns of varying degrees of price, because the house just doesn't seem to like keeping anything they make for men on the market longer than a few years, and people in the online community are basically just neurotic with their fear of missing out on some lost masterpiece that will elevate them above their peers wearing Dior Sauvage (2015). I try to de-mystify these trumped-up geese when I get a chance to smell them because 90% of the time they are nowhere near the level of greatness they are assigned, just victims of collector panic that scalpers who are looking profit from transforming such fragrances into an asset class, buying "the dip" upon discontinuation and selling high after sowing the seeds of hype that then lead down the path of panic buying.

Luckily, I can sorta see why this one was so beloved and ascendant upon discontinuation, so all of you out there who hoarded this one are spared the ire of some random reviewer guy you happen to be reading on the internet (my reviews make great distraction during potty breaks too so I hear). The overall theme of this one is not altogether different from the original DK Men (aka Fuel for Men in the later re-issue), just a bit lighter and fresher. You're still saddled with a boozy tobacco note that nobody was really doing at all in the mid-90's, which is where this and it's older brother get all the hype from collectors for being so ahead of their time, it's just those themes in Unleaded are made woodier and more airy. The opening is dry bergamot and an aldehyde that immediately imparts a sort of leathery nuance, but not like isobutyl quinoline tannery leathers, more like the dark birch-tar-meets-frambinone leathers Tom Ford enjoys, also making DK Men Unleaded feel really futuristic for 1995. From there, the boozy tobacco heart emerges, flanked by herbs like basil and clary sage and spiced up with cardamom and nutmeg. The tobacco is obviously tonka-based like most, but there are hints of that sweet cherry tobacco vibe so many things from the 2000's would use as well. A dusty cedar note finishes this off with a bit of oakmoss to boot, and we're done. Wear time is eight hours and sillage is good but this is not a projection monster. Best use if you're willing to part with juice that costs half a grand by wearing it, is in fall for casual or outdoors business, but most folks owning this now are holding it to "invest" and "flip" later.

Something that smells this good but was so far ahead of the curve (both in its dubious packaging and smell) seemed doomed to not be long for this world, as the saying goes "this is why we can't have nice things" and I'm inclined to agree. Maybe there was a different brand concept going into affect upon purchase and transformation of DK into DKNY, but whatever the reason for the reboot, we got these tobacco-filled scent sculptures replaced with shiny apple-shaped ones filled with candy scent in under a decade. Ironic that those too are discontinued (at least for men), and as I mentioned earlier, there really isn't a proper men's line available from the house. If you really fell hard for DK Men Unleaded but don't want to pay the Creed flacon prices I mentioned above, there are a good number of things (both discontinued and currently available) that could replace this, as the modern "tonkabacco" style on display with Unleaded would soon explode onto the mainstream with the dawning of the 2000's. First off there's Michael for Men by Michael Kors (2002) for your boozy fruity tobacco fix, then Vera Wang for Men (2004) if you want to lose the booze. Burberry London for Men (2006) gets the vibe of Unleaded re-arranged with more spice and fruit to feel like a holiday treat, while Tom Ford via Tobacco Vanille (2007) would strip out all but the tobacco and vanilla then dial them to 11. That last one has a high price too but also has a litany of clones. DK Men Unleaded walked so the tobacco genre could run so it seems, and that's pretty groovy even if I'd never spring for a bottle of this stuff myself. Thumbs up.

Closest thing to its big brother, DK for Men / Fuel, I've ever smelled. Perhaps more subtle, more powdery. Both are Bulgari Black types of leather. Soft and unisex.

Older version, of which I'm familiar, has that annoying topple-prone bottle design, just like big bro, with similar bloated secondary mkt prices these days to boot. All that falling down does take a toll and -- honestly, that quirky design belies the quality within -- they do pop up time again at flea markets and yard sales for a pittance... scoop 'em up!

(Dang, look at those prices for this fragrance now: $159, $250, $300...and for an unboxed 1.7 fl.oz. bottle?!)

DK Men Unleaded is a real treasure in my scent collection; the bottle feels like a space gun, and the fragrance itself is quite pleasant to wear. The basil and cardamom make for a bright, fresh experience, enhancing the already nice tobacco-suede base of this wonderful flanker (never tried the original).

A shame that this one was discontinued. Maybe Estee Lauder could consider reintroducing this marvelous scent? Just look at how valuable DKMU is in the online market!

Somewhat linear and no great creative energy expended, but still a very attractive, upbeat scent.Variation on the DK Fuel theme with more fruity (pineapple) and a brighter, fresher, less spicy opening. The frutiness carries forward, and it lacks the much of the woody/musk/amber base of Fuel. Somewhat linear and no great creative energy expended, but still a very attractive, upbeat scent.Pros: Bright and cheerfulCons: Linear and mundane"

A worthy younger sibling to DK Leaded Men. It's lighter than big brother, but just as unique. This is one of those rare cases where the sequel is as good as the original. Unleaded is lighter, smoother, a tad dryer, a noticeable bit fresher. Where DK Leaded is aggressive and edgy and unique, DK Unleaded is smooth and edgy and unique. They definitely are kindred... both filled with passion and talent, but Leaded is raw, and untamed, while Unleaded went to a very good prep school. Leaded is heavier and sharper–it is saddle leather to Unleaded's suede. I'm not sure what the notes in Unleaded actually are: they could be leather; they could be tobacco and I think there's some cardamom in there, too. The accords in which they are presented do not seem to aim for clarity; they aim for texture–silkiness. And this a unique, silky smooth, exquisitely linear texture that is as brilliant as the texture of its big brother.

Originally submitted 06 April 2007

Meh, don't understand the extreme prices for this, other than it's rare and discontinued. I'd get the same effect by layering Kiton Black with Banana Republic's Cordovan... and rubbin' muhself wid some o' dat chewin' tobaccy.