Frequently asked questions

Why is linguine served with seafood?

Linguine, which means "little tongues" in Italian, is an elliptical-shaped pasta, a sort of cross between spaghetti and fettuccine. It originated in the coastal city of Genoa, where seafood is plentiful, and it's the ideal thickness for twirling this seafood-studded sauce.

Do Italians put cheese on their seafood pasta?

To fully appreciate the flavor nuances of the fresh seafood, Italians refrain from adding cheese, which would compete with or overpower the true taste of the sea. Here, the finished dish is instead accentuated with a bit of crushed red pepper.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

This shellfish linguine recipe calls for four varieties of seafood: squid, mussels, cockles, and shrimp. Each type requires a different cooking time, so they're added successively to ensure everything is cooked to perfection. The squid goes in first, requiring 45 minutes to become tender in the tomato sauce. Next are the bivalves; increase the heat to a simmer and cook for three to five minutes, until most of the shells have opened. The shrimp are the last to join the party — they'll only take a couple of minutes to turn pink and firm.

Make ahead

The tomato-seafood sauce can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight. Bring to a simmer before proceeding.

Suggested pairing

A light, bright white with sharp acidity will complement the shellfish and hint of red pepper in this seafood linguine dish.

Ingredients

2 (28-ounce) cans peeled Italian plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, smashed
2 cups bottled clam juice (16 ounces)
2 large thyme sprigs
4 large basil leaves
Pinch of sugar
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds cleaned baby squid, sliced crosswise into 1/2-inch rings, large tentacles halved
1 1/2 pounds thin linguine
2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded
3 dozen cockles, scrubbed, soaked in cold water for 2 hours, and drained
1 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined
Crushed red pepper

Directions

Puree the Italian plum tomatoes in a food processor or blender. Strain them through a fine sieve set over a large bowl; discard the tomato seeds.
In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the extra-virgin olive oil until shimmering. Add the smashed garlic and cook over moderately high heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the pureed tomatoes, clam juice, thyme, basil, and sugar. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Cook over moderately low heat until it is reduced by one-third, about 45 minutes. Add the squid and cook over low heat until very tender, about 45 minutes longer.
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the linguine until al dente. Drain the pasta well and return it to the pot.
Add the mussels and cockles to the tomato sauce, cover, and cook the sauce over moderately high heat until most of the shells have opened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they are pink and firm, about 2 minutes longer. Discard any unopened mussels and cockles. Pour the tomato-seafood sauce over the cooked pasta and toss over high heat for 2 minutes. Transfer the pasta and sauce to a large warmed bowl, sprinkle with crushed red pepper, and serve.

Originally appeared: February 2002