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Fairbox 2.1
Build-along Instructions
Contents
Tools Required
Plus+ bench dogs, or a couple of small wooden
blocks would be useful, 2”x1”, 1” thick will do
nicely...
Some fine grain sandpaper....
... or a small sanding machine to
save time...
On a flat work surface, lightly sand all parts to
remove heat scorch marks. This will help the glue
to stick later.If using a sanding machine, go slowly
and gentle. Don't sand the edges- leave those
black. For the small pieces and edge trim, place
them flat inside their jigs, so you don't snap off
the small joints or break the thinner parts. If you
want to apply wood stain/dye/colour, now is the
time to do it. Use 0000 wire wool to lightly
remove tiny imperfections when dry.
Wipe dust off all parts and work surface with a
clean cloth. This stops your glue from clogging up.
Now take the lid, inside plate (rectangular)
and jig. Turn the lid upside down on bench
dogs/wooden blocks. Place the jig on the blank
side of the lid, line up the edges, and clamp it
in place. Put glue inside the jig, on the rear
face of the lid. Place the inside plate inside the
jig, then move the clamps onto the inside plate
to hold it firm. Make sure you don't glue and
clamp the jig in place! Allow a minute or 2 for
the glue to dry. Then remove the clamps and
jig. You should now have a lid, with an inside
plate fixed to the back of it.
Now take the base, the inside base support, and
the base support jig. Turn the base over, so the
logo is facing down. Using bench dogs/wooden
blocks under the base at this stage may help.
Place the jig in place on the inside face of the
base so the edges line up.
Put a small amount of glue on one side of the
base support. Place it inside the jig, then clamp
the base, the base support and the base support
jig all together. Make sure the base and the jig
edges all line up, and ensure you don't glue the
jig in place! After a couple of minutes, remove
the clamps and the jig. 
Now take the 4 internal wall upright pieces. 
Select the 4 wall faces with the best finish, so
when assembled, these face inside the box when on
view.
Run a bead of glue along the base and edge wall
pieces, one at a time, line them up inside the jig,
and slot together. A blob of glue on the 'nipple'
edge will help lock them together.
Use the inner top lip as a jig to help secure the
upright walls in position.
Assemble the upright piece by piece, one at a time,
wiping off excess glue spills whilst wet. Allow the
upright walls to dry in position with the inner top
lip in place.
When the walls are dry, remove the top lip and
lay off. Run a bead of glue around the top
edge of the 2 SHORT interior walls.
DO NOT put glue on the top edge of the 2
long walls. Place the top lip back into position,
and allow to dry.
Now take the long external wrap-around piece with the
living hinges. 
Turn the part-completed box upside down so the writing is at
the rear. Turn the long piece upside down also. Offer both
pieces together, so the wrap-around piece sits on top of the
bottom lip, all around the box. Bend the living hinge around
the corners, all around the box. At the rear of the box, the
male and female joints should slot together. You may need
to gently squeeze the 2 parts, causing the living hinges to
expand and slot inside each other. The male & female wrap
joints should be above the writing on the base, at the back of
the box.
Now  un-clip the joints and take it apart. You're going to
repeat that process again, but this time, fixing the parts
permanently in place using glue.
Run a bead of glue around all 4 top (black) edges
and all 4 rounded corners of the box. Apply glue
to the black edge only.
Then run a bead of glue along the BOTTOM edge
of the wrap, and inside the male & female joints.
DO NOT put glue on the top edge of the wrap. 
Repeat the wrap-around process as you practiced
earlier, and clip the male & female joints together
at the back of the box.
Secure with clamps and lay-off to dry. Wipe off
any excess glue whilst still wet if you can, but
excess you cannot reach, allow to dry and remove
with a light sanding.
When dry, remove all clamps, grab the lid, drop
it in place, and you're finished.
You should be left with 4 jigs- they can go in
the trash.
One Fairbox 2.1 to show off... enjoy.
fairbow.nl

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Fairbox 2.1 build instructions

  • 4. Plus+ bench dogs, or a couple of small wooden blocks would be useful, 2”x1”, 1” thick will do nicely...
  • 5. Some fine grain sandpaper....
  • 6. ... or a small sanding machine to save time...
  • 7. On a flat work surface, lightly sand all parts to remove heat scorch marks. This will help the glue to stick later.If using a sanding machine, go slowly and gentle. Don't sand the edges- leave those black. For the small pieces and edge trim, place them flat inside their jigs, so you don't snap off the small joints or break the thinner parts. If you want to apply wood stain/dye/colour, now is the time to do it. Use 0000 wire wool to lightly remove tiny imperfections when dry. Wipe dust off all parts and work surface with a clean cloth. This stops your glue from clogging up.
  • 8.
  • 9. Now take the lid, inside plate (rectangular) and jig. Turn the lid upside down on bench dogs/wooden blocks. Place the jig on the blank side of the lid, line up the edges, and clamp it in place. Put glue inside the jig, on the rear face of the lid. Place the inside plate inside the jig, then move the clamps onto the inside plate to hold it firm. Make sure you don't glue and clamp the jig in place! Allow a minute or 2 for the glue to dry. Then remove the clamps and jig. You should now have a lid, with an inside plate fixed to the back of it.
  • 10.
  • 11.
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14. Now take the base, the inside base support, and the base support jig. Turn the base over, so the logo is facing down. Using bench dogs/wooden blocks under the base at this stage may help. Place the jig in place on the inside face of the base so the edges line up. Put a small amount of glue on one side of the base support. Place it inside the jig, then clamp the base, the base support and the base support jig all together. Make sure the base and the jig edges all line up, and ensure you don't glue the jig in place! After a couple of minutes, remove the clamps and the jig. 
  • 15.
  • 16.
  • 17.
  • 18.
  • 19.
  • 20.
  • 21. Now take the 4 internal wall upright pieces.  Select the 4 wall faces with the best finish, so when assembled, these face inside the box when on view. Run a bead of glue along the base and edge wall pieces, one at a time, line them up inside the jig, and slot together. A blob of glue on the 'nipple' edge will help lock them together. Use the inner top lip as a jig to help secure the upright walls in position. Assemble the upright piece by piece, one at a time, wiping off excess glue spills whilst wet. Allow the upright walls to dry in position with the inner top lip in place.
  • 22.
  • 23.
  • 24.
  • 25.
  • 26.
  • 27.
  • 28.
  • 29. When the walls are dry, remove the top lip and lay off. Run a bead of glue around the top edge of the 2 SHORT interior walls. DO NOT put glue on the top edge of the 2 long walls. Place the top lip back into position, and allow to dry.
  • 30.
  • 31.
  • 32.
  • 33. Now take the long external wrap-around piece with the living hinges.  Turn the part-completed box upside down so the writing is at the rear. Turn the long piece upside down also. Offer both pieces together, so the wrap-around piece sits on top of the bottom lip, all around the box. Bend the living hinge around the corners, all around the box. At the rear of the box, the male and female joints should slot together. You may need to gently squeeze the 2 parts, causing the living hinges to expand and slot inside each other. The male & female wrap joints should be above the writing on the base, at the back of the box. Now  un-clip the joints and take it apart. You're going to repeat that process again, but this time, fixing the parts permanently in place using glue.
  • 34.
  • 35.
  • 36. Run a bead of glue around all 4 top (black) edges and all 4 rounded corners of the box. Apply glue to the black edge only. Then run a bead of glue along the BOTTOM edge of the wrap, and inside the male & female joints. DO NOT put glue on the top edge of the wrap.  Repeat the wrap-around process as you practiced earlier, and clip the male & female joints together at the back of the box. Secure with clamps and lay-off to dry. Wipe off any excess glue whilst still wet if you can, but excess you cannot reach, allow to dry and remove with a light sanding.
  • 37.
  • 38.
  • 39.
  • 40.
  • 41.
  • 42.
  • 43. When dry, remove all clamps, grab the lid, drop it in place, and you're finished. You should be left with 4 jigs- they can go in the trash. One Fairbox 2.1 to show off... enjoy.
  • 44.
  • 45.
  • 46.
  • 47.
  • 48.