Destroyed my Honjo hammered fender tonite

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d2mini

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Sep 2, 2008, 11:03:06 PM9/2/08
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So I was on my way home from work. Rolled up to a stop sign, came to
pretty much a complete stop (but no foot down), saw it was clear and
started to pedal through. Halfway out into the lane i felt my rear
tire jam and I came to an instant halt, throwing me off the seat and
feet to the ground. My bike was immobile and my planet bike blinky
that was screwed to my rear rack was now in pieces on the pavement and
cars were coming. So i drag the bike back to the side of the road just
as my blinky gets crushed by traffic. Now to asses the damage. My rear
fender was folded in half underneath itself, jamming the tire! Ripped
right off the bolt holding it to the fender stay. And also crushed in
one or two other places on that back half. I didn't have my camera
with me today so no pics. I had to pry the fender back out and rip off
the whole back half in order to make the bike rideable. I *think*
what might have happened was that the back bottom corner of my new
Ostrich pannier must of some how got caught in the wheel spokes? The
base of the pannier was loosely strapped to the fender stay to keep it
from flapping. I guess as the bag got pulled up by the rotating wheel,
it pulled up on the fender stay and the base of the fender caught the
tire and then folded under? It's the only thing I can think of and the
leather band across the base of the pannier has lost some stitching
and is separating from the bag.

So the honjo is completely toast. Time to look for new fenders and
figure out a way to better suspend the Ostrich, keeping it away from
the wheel. My nitto top rack obviously isn't doing it as-is. And
mental note... don't use fender stay for anything but mounting fenders.

David Estes

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Sep 2, 2008, 11:07:32 PM9/2/08
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Wow!  Just glad it didn't happen at speed!!!!  That would have been quite the unplanned deceleration...

David
--
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

PATRICK MOORE

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Sep 2, 2008, 11:44:34 PM9/2/08
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The VO fenders are a cheap alternative. I think that perhaps the metal may not be a sturdy as the Honjos -- I have the hammered style -- and they're not as pretty -- or, at least, the plain version I have, with its somewhat matt finish, is not as pretty, but they seem decent and cost only $30. I just mounted a pair on my Motobecane grocery bike.

Esteban

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Sep 3, 2008, 1:56:23 AM9/3/08
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I always worry about things like this with metal fenders. AWESOME it
didn't happen on the front wheel. This really freaks me out. No
quick release on the metal fenders - any one else freaked out about
the possibility of a high speed endo?

Mitch F.

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Sep 3, 2008, 9:40:14 AM9/3/08
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I'm freaked out about it.

My Berthoud stainless fenders are okay with my 28/700 on the Romulus.  When I switch to the 32s, there is barely any clearance.  It takes forever to get it so it doesn't rub.

The sound of small pebbles getting tossed into the fenders gives me the willies.  You just know that sooner or later, a bigger pebble is gonna get up there and if, like you say, it is the front wheel, it's curtains.

I finally took off the fenders.

I'm saving them for the day when i can justify trading up to an AHH frame, which will accept larger tires with fenders.

--- On Wed, 9/3/08, Esteban <Prot...@gmail.com> wrote:

d2mini

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Sep 3, 2008, 10:39:31 AM9/3/08
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I think I'm going to get the Berthoud's.
But peter white is out of stock and wallbike is closed since they are
in new orleans and had to evacuate! Hope they are ok.
But darn the luck!
Haiwatha Cyclery might have them but i need to call to check their
stock.
Anyone know of anywhere else??? I don't want to be fenderless. :(


On Sep 3, 8:40 am, "Mitch F." <mfrie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm freaked out about it.
>
> My Berthoud stainless fenders are okay with my 28/700 on the Romulus.  When I switch to the 32s, there is barely any clearance.  It takes forever to get it so it doesn't rub.
>
> The sound of small pebbles getting tossed into the fenders gives me the willies.  You just know that sooner or later, a bigger pebble is gonna get up there and if, like you say, it is the front wheel, it's curtains.
>
> I finally took off the fenders.
>
> I'm saving them for the day when i can justify trading up to an AHH frame, which will accept larger tires with fenders.
>
> --- On Wed, 9/3/08, Esteban <Proto...@gmail.com> wrote:
> From: Esteban <Proto...@gmail.com>

Brian Sullivan

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Sep 3, 2008, 10:59:06 AM9/3/08
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If you can't find any in the US, you might try ordering directly from
Giles Berthoud:

http://www.gillesberthoud.fr/anglais/index1.php

I have done this with no problem.

velonut

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Sep 3, 2008, 11:25:31 AM9/3/08
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Hiawatha has a pretty good selection of Berthoud's. Call Jim at 612
727-2565 or go to their web site a
www.hiawathacyclery.com

Cheers

Kevin

PATRICK MOORE

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Sep 3, 2008, 11:54:09 AM9/3/08
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No. The accident described was due to a fluke. With Jan Heine and fellow randonneurs riding thousands of miles a year over many years with such fenders and judging them safe, I am not going to worry -- especially as I rode many miles with plastic fenders that had not qrs. Fenders sans qrs have been the norm for, what, over 100 years now?

FWIW, the last time I had a rear wheel seize up -- the attachment to my Nelson broke and the bag flipped backward onto the unfendered, un-be-racked rear wheel -- I was going close to 30 mph at the end of a hill. The rear wheel skidded, I stopped, re-attached the bag, and rode on with no more damage than a new bald spot on my rear Pasela.

Esteban

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Sep 3, 2008, 12:55:15 PM9/3/08
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Patrick's right about the odds. As I'm mounting 50mm fluted honjos to
my Riv, there's plenty of room and I won't be worried. But my
Kogswell is pretty tight with 32s and 40mm fenders. Perhaps another
reason to sell it?

I think its worth being really careful with bags - lots of straps and
lashes that could do exactly what happened as described in the
original post.

MKahrl

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Sep 3, 2008, 2:16:05 PM9/3/08
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The odds were working pretty well for me over the course of 25 years
of fenders with no quick release. On a slight downhill at a nice
clip a small stick of the perfect length, diameter and weight leapt up
off the pavement and jammed into my front fender but good. I watched
my front wheel destruct as I went over the handlebars and then turned
to watch my son as he was flung off the Trail-A-Bike behind me.

I can't stand the looks of the big clunky quick releases on my AHH
front fork but they are not coming off until a better QR is invented.
Stuff Happens.

Michael Kahrl
Columbus, OH

d2mini

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Sep 3, 2008, 3:43:41 PM9/3/08
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Thank you, Brian!
Everyone in the states seemed to be out of my size so I ordered
direct.
Any idea how long it should take to receive them?

On Sep 3, 9:59 am, Brian Sullivan <rivendell.lo...@gmail.com> wrote:

Brian Sullivan

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Sep 3, 2008, 4:06:31 PM9/3/08
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How fast you receive them would depend on many factors, but I'll bet
you a fresh croissant that you'll get them faster than if you ordered
them from Amazon. I ordered some small parts and they showed up within
a couple of weeks.

Steve Palincsar

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Sep 3, 2008, 4:24:38 PM9/3/08
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On Wed, 2008-09-03 at 09:54 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

>
> FWIW, the last time I had a rear wheel seize up -- the attachment to
> my Nelson broke and the bag flipped backward onto the unfendered,
> un-be-racked rear wheel -- I was going close to 30 mph at the end of a
> hill. The rear wheel skidded, I stopped, re-attached the bag, and rode
> on with no more damage than a new bald spot on my rear Pasela.


You were lucky.

I knew a woman at work who had a sweater draped around her seatpost
while riding. On a fast downhill an arm of the sweater flopped down
into her back wheel, and it locked up. She went flying and broke her
arm in several places. She had three or four surgeries, was out of work
for around 9 months, and had a year or so of rehab.

She was very unlucky.

Michael Wise

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Sep 3, 2008, 4:26:23 PM9/3/08
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On Tue, Sep 2, 2008 at 11:56 PM, Esteban <Prot...@gmail.com> wrote:

I don't believe this would be a problem with the Berthouds.

First of all, the Berthouds are much beefier than the Honjos. They are not only stainless steel v. aluminum, they are thicker. Even the stays are much thicker than the Honjo stays. It would take something really serious to crumple them.

Secondly, the stays of the Berthoud will pull out of its eyelet mounting bolt if seriously torqued, so it does have a kind of quick release. Pulling directly back on the fender should release the fender, as long as you were conscientious enough to Dremel off the extra portion of the stay that sticks out in front.

The SKS/Esge fenders are required to have the quick release due to issues with them crumpling; the Berthouds aren't.

--
How often I have lain beneath rain on a strange roof, thinking of home.

Ryan Watson

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Sep 3, 2008, 6:35:05 PM9/3/08
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I had a rear spoke break on my commuter. It happened to be the spoke that
was holding the reflector. The reflector twisted sideways and grabbed the
fender stays while the wheel rotated and totally folded up the rear
aluminum fender. Brought the bike to a rapid halt. I'm actually still
using that fender, I just bent it back out as straight as I could get it.
I'm going to switch to those cloth/velcro refectors!

Ryan

Michael Wise

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Sep 3, 2008, 7:32:01 PM9/3/08
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Those plastic reflectors are a real hazard: they can come loose and jam in the forks, they can cause wheels to come out of true, they put undue stress on the spokes they are attached to. On top of all that, they don't solve the problem that they're supposed to be for: by the time a headlight is reflected in one of these things, the driver is probably too close to do anything about it. Reflection is adequate for the rear, but a light is needed up front, and that should provide enough light to illuminate from the side. 

Ryan Watson

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Sep 3, 2008, 7:56:16 PM9/3/08
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On Wed, 3 Sep 2008, Michael Wise wrote:
>> Those plastic reflectors are a real hazard: they can come loose and jam in
> the forks, they can cause wheels to come out of true, they put undue stress
> on the spokes they are attached to. On top of all that, they don't solve the
> problem that they're supposed to be for: by the time a headlight is
> reflected in one of these things, the driver is probably too close to do
> anything about it.

I don't know. I've seen them from the car's point of view and they are
quite striking, even from a couple blocks away. Two bright, spinning
circles! No way you wouldn't know it's a bike.
I don't know how the velcro ones compare in brightness, though.

Ryan

rinjin

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Sep 3, 2008, 8:15:34 PM9/3/08
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Have to add my two cents. I had a set of Berthouds on my Rambouillet
until this spring. Out on a longish ride, approaching a stop sign, I
slowed down to check the cross-traffic...didn't see the smallish stick
in the road before running over it. It was apparently just the right
size to be picked up by the rear wheel. The fender folded quite
dramatically, bringing me to a screeching halt. Scared the hell out of
me because I realized how deadly it could've been if I'd lost control
at the intersection or if it had been my front tire or if I'd been
going fast, etc.

Brian

On Sep 3, 3:26 pm, "Michael Wise" <mishaw...@gmail.com> wrote:

Grantm...@gmail.com

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Sep 3, 2008, 8:54:21 PM9/3/08
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This is Monday morning fenderbacking, I realize, but on the topic of
fenders and jamming and folding and safety...rather than bolting the
metal fenders to the eyelets, zip-tie them. Twine or wrap the zip-ties
will kangaroo hide cord or whatever it takes to hide the truth under
there, but don't write-off the zip-ties. I've done this, and I've
jammed a fender, and the zippers break right off so nicely. There may
be alternatives. A friend uses nylon bolts, figuring they're weak to
begin with and will break. I've heard of people (well, maybe ONE
person) cutting 80 percent through a bolt to make it a quick-releaser.
I think cutting 80 percent of the way thru a nylon bolt might be
overkill....as would cutting part thru a zip-tie.
The point is to get it to release under stress, while still holding
the fender rigidly. Someone out there in whatchamacallit land probably
has an even better idea...

Grant

PATRICK MOORE

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Sep 3, 2008, 9:12:28 PM9/3/08
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 Wed, Sep 3, 2008 at 2:26 PM, Michael Wise <mish...@gmail.com> wrote:


On Tue, Sep 2, 2008 at 11:56 PM, Esteban <Prot...@gmail.com> wrote:


I don't believe this would be a problem with the Berthouds.

First of all, the Berthouds are much beefier than the Honjos. They are not only stainless steel v. aluminum, they are thicker. Even the stays are much thicker than the Honjo stays. It would take something really serious to crumple them.

I don't want to be contrarian, but I just took a look at 50 mm Berthouds and 45 mm "hammered" -- really, "dimpled" -- Honjos, and I don't know that the Bs are much sturdier. The Honjos seem to be made of stiffer metal. FWIW, my Honjos have suffered fewer dents than the Berthouds.

"Much" beefier is clearly wrong; "slightly" beefier may be accurate. But the aluminum does seem less apt to be bent, judging from finger pressure.

Mitch F.

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Sep 3, 2008, 9:28:47 PM9/3/08
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Just curious, do you recall what size tire you were running?

--- On Wed, 9/3/08, rinjin <felt...@gmail.com> wrote:
From: rinjin <felt...@gmail.com>
Subject: [RBW] Re: Destroyed my Honjo hammered fender tonite
To: "RBW Owners Bunch" <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com>

Bill M.

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Sep 3, 2008, 11:47:55 PM9/3/08
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IMO, tires with reflective sidewalls are a better solution than
plastic wheel reflectors. I know the blackwall + stripe look doesn't
necessarliy meet the Riv aesthetic, but I's rather be seen.

Esteban

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Sep 4, 2008, 12:50:32 AM9/4/08
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I'm kind of in the middle of starting installation of the fluted
Honjos - I'll see what I can do with Grant's recommendations - never
thought of that. Sounds pretty good - especially nylon bolts.

Let you all know how it goes...

Michael Wise

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Sep 4, 2008, 12:57:41 PM9/4/08
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I stand by my characterization, even though my one set of Honjos was a smooth set, they were much lighter than the Berthouds that replaced them, much more prone to denting (the hammered probably don't show dents that easily, do they? They're already dented all over), and more easily knocked out of whack by inadvertent bashing into things. The stays on the Berthouds have a more staple attachment to the fender, and they are indeed thicker.

But this may all be picking nits, because I would take either of these over a plastic or carbon-fiber fender, or even the metal fenders that came with the Kogswell P/R. I've never used the hammered Honjo fenders, either, so they may indeed be superior. However, in my experience, the Berthouds have been the better fender.

PATRICK MOORE

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Sep 4, 2008, 1:27:03 PM9/4/08
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On Thu, Sep 4, 2008 at 10:57 AM, Michael Wise <mish...@gmail.com> wrote:

I stand by my characterization, even though my one set of Honjos was a smooth set, they were much lighter than the Berthouds that replaced them, much more prone to denting (the hammered probably don't show dents that easily, do they? They're already dented all over), and more easily knocked out of whack by inadvertent bashing into things. The stays on the Berthouds have a more staple attachment to the fender, and they are indeed thicker.

Well, I'm glad I got the hammered, because those -- at least mine -- are stiffer, less prone to being knocked about, and aren't dented yet, while the B's are. The hammering probably makes them stiffer.

No, no "camouflaged" dents.

John McMurry

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Sep 4, 2008, 3:22:25 PM9/4/08
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On Sep 4, 12:57 pm, "Michael Wise" <mishaw...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Wed, Sep 3, 2008 at 7:12 PM, PATRICK MOORE <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >  Wed, Sep 3, 2008 at 2:26 PM, Michael Wise <mishaw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> On Tue, Sep 2, 2008 at 11:56 PM, Esteban <Proto...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> I don't believe this would be a problem with the Berthouds.
>
> >> First of all, the Berthouds are much beefier than the Honjos. They are not
> >> only stainless steel v. aluminum, they are thicker. Even the stays are much
> >> thicker than the Honjo stays. It would take something really serious to
> >> crumple them.
>
> > I don't want to be contrarian, but I just took a look at 50 mm Berthouds
> > and 45 mm "hammered" -- really, "dimpled" -- Honjos, and I don't know that
> > the Bs are much sturdier. The Honjos seem to be made of stiffer metal. FWIW,
> > my Honjos have suffered fewer dents than the Berthouds.
>
> > "Much" beefier is clearly wrong; "slightly" beefier may be accurate. But
> > the aluminum does seem less apt to be bent, judging from finger pressure.
>
> I stand by my characterization, even though my one set of Honjos was a
> smooth set, they were much lighter than the Berthouds that replaced them,
> much more prone to denting (the hammered probably don't show dents that
> easily, do they? They're already dented all over),

I have noticed, like Patrick, that my hammered Honjo's don't dent as
easily as the SS Berthouds (that sounds oxymoronic). Another
observation is that they don't crack as easily.

> and more easily knocked
> out of whack by inadvertent bashing into things.

That hasn't been my experience.

> The stays on the Berthouds
> have a more staple attachment to the fender,

I do like the Berthoud fender stays better, mostly because of the
direct and lower profile attachment to the fender.

> and they are indeed thicker.

I hadn't noticed. Aren't Berthoud fender stays also 5mm in diameter?

> But this may all be picking nits, because I would take either of these over
> a plastic or carbon-fiber fender, or even the metal fenders that came with
> the Kogswell P/R.

It's funny you mention that as I may be coming full circle with my
future fender choice. When I started fendering my bicycles, I always
bought the sandwiched aluminum SKS ones and they worked OK. They
never looked super nice and occasionally, the Q/R releases would pop
off from a twig, a wheel change, or a clumsy person trying to get
their bike past mine at a bike rack. I'd grumble, pop the stays back
into place, and continue onward.

After reading lots of glowing reviews about the durability of SS
Berthouds, I bought a pair for my commuter. After a few hours of
installation, the fenders did look much nicer, worked pretty good at
keeping me dry, but had issues of their own.

First, they would easily dent. Secondly, if dented repeatedly, they
cracked. Third, I pulled a stick into the rear wheel and ripped the
fender attachments until it came around under the tire (not
necessarily the fender's fault). All this in one season.

Then, for my Riv, I bought hammered Honjos. They are noticeably
lighter, IMO look nicer, and seem to not dent as easy as Berthouds.
They may in fact be hiding the dents within the dents, but I really
can't see them even when up close. No cracking yet. Though, the
stays aren't as simple, light or as elegant as the Berthoud stays.

My greatest annoyance with metal fenders stems from a recent
modification to my Honjos in order to accomodate a 42mm tire. (I
initially set the fenders up to work perfectly with a 36mm tire and
wanted to try a 42mm)

I pulled the fenders, chopped every screw down to the minimum size,
filed every nut, rounded every corner, re-adjusted all the fender
spacing, installed, disassembled, re-installed, etc... for hours.

I then installed the 42mm tire and found the clearances still too
tight for my liking (not blaming the fenders). So, after all that, I
reinstalled the 36mm tires only to find that now my calipers (R556)
don't open as before. They wouldn't open wide enough to get my tire
through because the fender now sat too close to the brake arch when
the Q/R was open. With all of the bolts and nuts chopped down, and
being mostly unique hardware pieces; I'm out of luck to adjust
anything unless I mail order new parts and start all over again.

I wasted a beautiful weekend of my life messing with metal fenders;
mostly for vanity. If I had those SKS fenders on, I'd have just
adjusted an L-bracket, or cut some zip ties and would've been on the
road in a matter of minutes.

In my experience with SKS fenders, you'd be hard pressed to report any
major performance difference in comparison to Berthoud and Honjo's,
even with that water-damming interior brace.

And to compare the safety of these fenders; I think it's a crap-shoot.

As I've said, I ripped a Berthoud through the frame. I've popped the
Q/R on SKS fenders and ripped them from their zip-ties. This spring,
a friend pulled a stick into her spokes, into the stays, and her fork
swallowed part of her Honjo and spit the rest out to the side.
Luckily, she wasn't going fast.

In short, when I need to purchase another set of fenders, they'll be
plastic. I've decided the others aren't worth my time.

YMMV

John McMurry
Burlington, VT


d2mini

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Sep 4, 2008, 4:16:45 PM9/4/08
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John, if these Berthoud's don't work out, i'm going back to SKS
plastic fenders and give up the slight vanity difference.
The Honjos I was not impressed with other than looks.
My front fender was never straight. When looking at it from the
drivers seat, the end of it over the top of the wheel cocked to the
left. I guess that's what happens when they are handmade. As far as
durablity/feel i think they are pretty flimsy feeling. And finally,
they are really hard to adjust just right compared to the SKS. The
noise is another issue, but that's expected with metal fenders and it
can be worked out over time using different methods.
So we'll see how it goes.

What size sks do you use with 650b wheels?
Does another size work/look ok?

JoelMatthews

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Sep 5, 2008, 11:15:35 AM9/5/08
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> In short, when I need to purchase another set of fenders, they'll be
> plastic. I've decided the others aren't worth my time.

I like SKS but have yet to find a set that fit my 700 x 60 Schwalbe
big apples on my city bike. I use SKS on my camper which is set up
for 40 max and using 35s right now.

On Sep 4, 2:22 pm, John McMurry <johnmcmu...@gmail.com> wrote:

PATRICK MOORE

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Sep 5, 2008, 11:18:15 AM9/5/08
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On Fri, Sep 5, 2008 at 9:15 AM, JoelMatthews <joelma...@mac.com> wrote:


I like SKS but have yet to find a set that fit my 700 x 60 Schwalbe
big apples on my city bike.  I use SKS on my camper which is set up
for 40 max and using 35s right now.

Planet Bike makes 60 mm fenders, I think -- plastic.

Esteban

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Sep 5, 2008, 12:23:33 PM9/5/08
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SKS are great - not long enough, though. Honjos vs. Berths - aluminum
vs. steel. Simple. Both work well and look great. Just different.
The metal fenders are indeed difficult to install - but isn't that the
fun of it?

Safety is an issue, of course - but there are all kinds of things that
can go wrong. A little care goes a long way.

JoelMatthews

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Sep 5, 2008, 12:57:08 PM9/5/08
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I have only found them for 26" though. Maybe the 700s get snapped up
too fast.

On Sep 5, 10:18 am, "PATRICK MOORE" <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:

PATRICK MOORE

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Sep 5, 2008, 11:53:43 PM9/5/08
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Mine are for 622. I've hacked them, otherwise I'd offer them to you.
--
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM

PATRICK MOORE

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Sep 5, 2008, 11:55:28 PM9/5/08
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On Fri, Sep 5, 2008 at 10:23 AM, Esteban

The metal fenders are indeed difficult to install - but isn't that the
fun of it?

Actually, once you learn the basic techniques -- Hiroshi at Jitensha had very detailed instructions for Honjos on his website -- and the little "trucs" like denting the drilling point with a hammer and punch, they are not at all difficult to install. I installed a pair of similar Velo Orange aluminums on my grocery bike last Saturday.

John McMurry

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Sep 8, 2008, 8:42:13 AM9/8/08
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On Sep 5, 12:23 pm, Esteban <Proto...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The metal fenders are indeed difficult to install - but isn't that the
> fun of it?

Heck no, not for me.

> Safety is an issue, of course - but there are all kinds of things that
> can go wrong.  A little care goes a long way.

I'm not sure I understand. A little care towards what? I surely
don't aim for objects in the road.

My point wasn't to discourage use of fenders nor to insinuate that one
kind was safer than the other.

John McMurry
Burlington, VT
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