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Subject: Window Regulator Replacement Author: Brian : member since January, 2005 : 10982 posts Posted on: 2005-05-29 12:40:53

This is a detailed account of my rear passenger window regulator replacement on my 1998 E38 740iL. This is a relatively easy project—it only took about 2 hours. I shot lots of pictures, but most of the effort is in removing the door panel itself, and that is pretty well documented on www.e38.org.

Tools Required:
● Socket Wrench (I used a 3/8” wrench)
● Short Socket Extension
● 10 mm Socket
● E12 Torx Socket (for a star shaped bolt)
● 10mm Open End Wrench
● Philips Head Screwdriver
● Torx T30 Driver
● Small Flat Head Screwdriver (not shown)
● Wrench


The Part:
● Window Lifter 51.35-8 125 204
● There are two versions of this part, one for normal glass and one for security glass. I used the normal one.
● The new regulator is the one on the right.


The Major Steps In the Project:
● Remove the Small Window Shade (if installed on your car)
● Remove the Door Panel
● Remove the Vapor Shield
● Remove the Window Gasket and Window Glass
● Replace the Window Lifter
● Reinstall the Window Glass and Window Gasket
● Reinstall the Vapor Shield
● Reinstall the Door Panel and Small Window Shade
___________________________________________________________

Remove the Small Window Shade:

Removing the small window shade is quite easy. David Cecil posted a repair (http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/23326) that includes shade remove. There is little that I can add to his explanation. They key is that it is easy, and it does not take much force. You simply spring the top clip free and pull the top end away from the window, on a path perpendicular to the glass, while keeping the base anchored.



Remove the Door Panel:

The door is held in place by 10 plastic clips along the outside edge, 5 metal clips across the top edge, 2 internal slide clips that secure the door pull, and a screw at the base of the rear window shade. The door panel comes off easily if you are careful, know where the clips are, and know how to move the panel to free it from the clips.

First, remove the small screw at the base of trim between the main window and quarter window.

Next remove the little plastic plug in the middle of the door release handle with a small flat head screwdriver. This plug hides a philips head screw that secures the door release handle to the door frame.

Now you must pop the 10 plastic clips free. These just snap straight in to the door frame. The trick is to be careful and use your hands. I started on a bottom corner, and carefully pulled the panel away from the door frame with one hand while I wedged my fingers from my other hand under the panel. I moved slowly and deliberately until I heard and felt the clip snap free. Then I just moved around the perimeter of the door, carefully popping each one free.

You are ready to lift the door panel off the door. The trick is to slide the panel vertically to free the top edge of the panel from metal clips along the base of the window at the same time you are freeing the door pull handle from two internal slide clips. You only have to go about ½” to ¾” to get it free. After that you just have to disconnect all of the electrical connectors, and you can set the door panel aside.

This picture shows where the clips are all located. The red arrows are the plastic clips. The green arrows are the metal clips. The blue arrows are the internal door pull slide clips.


This is a rear view of the door panel that also shows the clips.



Remove the Vapor Shield:

The vapor shield is secured by several plastic rivets that are holding other stuff in place and some seriously gooey bubble gum-like sealer. Remove the speaker enclosure all of the plastic rivets, the big square door pull clips, and the white plastic door lock “deflector.” I used the wrench to gently squeeze the metal clip retaining the square door pull clips. Then carefully pull the vapor shield away from the door frame. Resist the temptation to cut the vapor shield away, and try not to tear it. This is both noise insulation, and it keeps moisture out of the car.





Remove the Window Gasket and Window Glass:

Now you should be looking at the open door frame with the window lifter inside. The window lifter is held in place by two “reverse” E12 Torx bolts at the top and a 10mm bolt at the bottom. The problem is that the glass blocks access to one of the top Torx bolts. So, you have to remove the glass from the door.

At this point, I removed my window switch from the door panel and reconnected it to the wiring so that I can raise and lower the lifter through the next few steps.


The glass is held in place by the window gasket and a single T30 Torx headed screw at the bottom. First, lower the window and remove the T30 Torx screw at the bottom of the window. Then remove the window gasket. The gasket extends several inches down into the door frame on both sides. I started at the back and pulled the gasket up and out of the door frame. Then I just continued around the door until I completely removed the gasket.


Some folks have successfully removed the glass at this point, but I could not get it out. I had to loosen the B Pillar trim piece to give me the clearance to lift the glass straight up the top. There are three philips head screws that you access from the outside of the car with the window down, and then you can pull a gasket away that is on the leading edge of the door.




Replace the Window Lifter:

Removing and replacing the window lifter is easy at this point. Just disconnect the wiring, and remove the two bolts at the top and the one bolt at the bottom. This pictures shows where the top bolts are. There are clear plastic stickers that cover two holes that give you access to the bolts behind.



Reinstall the Window Glass and Window Gasket:

Reinstall the glass just like you removed it. Then reconnect the B Pillar trim screws and gaskets. Next, reinsert the window gasket. I started at the front edge of the window this time and slid the section down into the door cavity. Make sure that the window fits between the felt areas on the gasket in the area below the door. Then just slide & snap the gasket in place around the frame. On the back side, do the same as the front and slide the section down into the door. The two pictures are from below the door, looking up, and they show how the window gasket should look from inside the door. Make sure you get this part right, otherwise the window will bind.

Front Gasket Insertion


Rear Gasket Insertion



Reinstall the Vapor Shield:

Put the vapor shield back in. This is just a matter of repositioning it over the plastic rivet and clip holes, and pressing it against the bubble gum sealer goo.


Reinstall the Door Panel and Small Window Shade:

Now you can finally replace the door panel. I raised the main window shade at this point to get it out of the way. One of the tricks that worked for me was to slide the door pull clips onto the door, instead of clipping them back on to the door frame. Then you just have to snap them in place instead of trying to find them blindly as you slide and lower the door panel back into place.

Do not forgot to reconnect all of the electrical connections. These are the ones to confirm:
● Window pressure sensor
● Window lift switch
● Door panel light
● Tweeter speaker
● Main speaker

Test everything now. Raise and lower the window. Listen to the speakers to make sure that they both work. Check the light at the bottom of the door.

Start with the door panel a couple of inches above door, position the lock through the hole. Then lower it down and secure the door panel to the metal clips beneath the quarter window. Lower the door panel all the way in place. Fish the door open handle through its hole. Then push on the door pull to snap the door pull clips into place. Finally, go around the perimeter of the door and snap the door clips in.

Snap in the small window shade, and you are done!

• Window Regulator Replacement (pic) (link) (imp) - Brian 2005-05-29 12:40:53 (88832 views)
  • Great writeup! (nt) - dwightf 2005-05-30 12:10:53 (1216 views)
  • Most Excellent Writeup Thanks (nt) - BJames38 2005-05-30 10:01:52 (1135 views)
  • Brian, excellent job! (nt) - garyd 2005-05-30 06:54:34 (1076 views)
  • Brian, that is an excellent writeup! Definite e38.org material! (nt) - DavidC 2005-05-30 03:44:36 (1154 views)
  • Beautiful write up. Very clear. Many Thanks (nt) - farnarkler 2005-05-29 18:17:45 (1135 views)
  • EXCEPTIONAL!! This will CERTAINLY go on e38.org! (nt) - Ultymte 2005-05-29 17:27:42 (1288 views)
  • Brian, an excellent post! David C., shouldn't this go to e38.org? - sealbeach740 2005-05-29 14:19:17 (1342 views)
  • This is what I need to do my rear window, thanks for the great writeup. (nt) - terry12218 2005-05-29 12:49:21 (1419 views)